Restoration: 1979 radial arm saw - Craftsman 113.197751

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Blog entry by KTNC posted 10-21-2021 02:44 PM 2130 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Restoration: 1979 radial arm saw – Craftsman 113.197751


I’ve restored 1950s DeWalts, 1960s Craftsman and 1970s Powr Kraft Radial Arm Saws. This is my first 1970s Craftsman. Even amongst the few who actually like radial arm saws, Craftsman is often despised. I took on this project because I was curious to find out how bad these “newer” saws really are. I was very pleasantly surprised. The 1979 Craftsman contains very little plastic, the indexing mechanisms work well and it seems to be as stiff as the older saws.

Project Summary
Cost = $125 including zero acquisition cost and $52 for the new blade
Time = 72 hours over two calendar months
Total disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, reassembly. New table.
No repainting or de-rusting

model plate
model: 113.197751 SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO USA
Serial or Date: 9248.M0535
motor plate

SOURCE 113 PART 63607
120/240 VOLTS 11.0/5.5 AMPS
3450 RPM 60 Hz 1 PHASE
MFG. NO 9 79 7

User manual for the saw is available here
Manual for the guard kit
is available here

A friend gave this saw to me because he preferred to have the extra room in his workshop. It would be hard to find one in much better condition: no rust and no bad paint. Around 2002, he got an upgraded blade guard and new table which was made available to Craftsman radial arm saw owners in the past. By the time I got it, the table was shot but the blade guard was still like new.

Here are a few pictures of the finished saw

As I went along, I kept a journal and took many pictures. The details below are from the journal.

I started on the restoration of the Craftsman radial arm saw model 113.197751 today.

I wheeled it back to the shop and cleared off the tables to make room.

I began by closely examining the upgraded guard. The guard was included with a safety upgrade called “Craftsman 10-Inch Radial Saw Guard Kit”, which is model no 509346. I was able to download the manual from This kit fits 11 different models that are listed on the first page of the manual.

The blade guard looks like it might not be too bad to use for cross-cutting. I think it might be a bother for other operations like ripping, beveling, horizontal sawing etc.

The manual says that more room is needed behind the fecne and that is why the kit includes a new table (main front, and two back). New table supports are also included. I placed the table on the supports and then put the saw in in-rip with the blade in the position so the in-rip guage measured zero. Instead of being at the fence edge of the table, the blade was about 2.5” behind it. That means this table removes 2.5” of crosscut and rip with the fence in position behind the main front table (when compared to the standard table). They do provide a 4” wide smaller back table. You get about 10.5” crosscut with the fence behind the main front table and 14.5” with it behind the 4” back table. With the fence behind the 4” back table, you can almost get a 2×4 up next to the fence and clear the blade. I played around with it a little and I could not see why they needed to move the edge that far forward. This arrangement of tables should work fine except the rip scales cant be used.

Disassembly steps
- remove the Indicator, miter (plastic)

- remove the Scale, miter (plastic)

- remove lever arm knobs (plastic)

- remove the screw that stops carriage from coming off arm

- remove motor/yoke/carriage and set on table

tip: If I had it to over again I would have put a known good blade on the saw and checked for wobble before I removed the motor. When I reached the end of the project I found there is a little blade wobble and I wished I had noticed that earlier so I could have taken the motor, blade, and arbor collars to a motor shop for inspection while it was still disconnected from the saw.

- remove trim assembly – used a screwdriver to pry off

- remove arm trip pad – a rectangle of cardboard
- remove two hex screws from Guide (both cords go through grommets on guide)

- disconnect wires from switch at front of arm

- remove white rectangle (insulation – plastic) near switch

- remove rear cover plate – at back of arm where cord goes through

- remove strain relief from cover plate (plastic)

- pull power cords through arm

wiring notes
cord to plug has three conductors: white, black, green
black wire lug has a small plastic cover called flag terminal cap
cord to motor has two conductors: white, black

- place bucket under arm to support it and remove four bolts that clamp the two parts of the arm around the column

- remove rear part of arm

- remove arm
- remove arm lock shoe

- remove arm latch


This saw was in very good shape to start. If I wanted to, I could probably have just done a Jon Eakes tune-up and made it operational. However, I want to inspect the interior parts of this saw as these models seem to be held in low esteem. I want to see if they really are that bad. A complete disassembly will allow me to lube everything and get it working like new.

I’m impressed by the stiffness of the arm, the lack of slop in the arm/column connection and the miter indexing mechanism. I’m surprised how stiff and tight everything is because both the arm and column are two pieces. The arm has a large opening but it’s overall dimensions are wider than other saws and there are plenty of ribs. It seems very stiff to me.

The arm latch is a collar that is not actually fixed to the column. Instead it has three set screws that go into a groove in the column. Just under the arm latch is a large retaining ring that fits into a groove in the column. I think the retaining ring and the set screws/groove do a good job of keeping the arm latch where it’s suppose to be. To make the saw travel square to the fence you loosen the 3 set screws and move the arm to the right position and then tighten the set screws.

The arm has a groove that wraps around the collar and the retaining ring. This is what locates the position of the arm on the column. (10/20/2021 – not sure if this statement is right)

The arrangement of the wires is very nice on this saw. They are easy to remove and held out of the way of the arm latching mechanism.

So far, I’ve encountered zero rust or worn paint.

The arm index pin is made of two parts and has an interesting asymmetric shape. It moves easily in the arm index housing but there seems to be no detectable slop. When the arm index pin engages with the arm latch there is no detectable play at the end of the arm. The engagement happens by means of a spring, there is no way for the operator to apply additional force to drive the index pin into the arm latch. The operator has to apply force to the lever assembly to disengage the index pin: once that force is removed the spring drives the index pin into the arm latch. On this model you pull the lever all the way back to disengage the index pin: that compresses the spring further. When you let the lever go to the middle position, the spring pushes the index pin into the arm latch. When you push the lever forward the arm lock rod presses on the arm lock shoe which locks the arm to the column. The lever stays in the forward position until you apply force to pull it back. An ingenious mechanism.

Metal/plastic: I noted above which parts are plastic. The arm itself is made of aluminum (I think) and all the parts of the arm latch mechanism are steel. So far, I’ve encountered nothing made of plastic that really should be made of metal.


- remove elevation handle and hardware guiding elevation shaft at front of saw
- unbolted and removed the column/support and elevation handle as a unit

- removed the column trim to expose bolts holding two halves of column support together
- removed all the bolts holding the two halves of the column support together sorted fasteners into two tubs: one for front one for rear there are several different lengths used be careful on reassembly there are two brightly plated bolts that go in positions for adjusting column tightness
- separated the two sides of the column support and took many pictures of how the column and elevation shaft is arranged. It’ll be important to look at those during reassembly because there are “ridges” on the shafts that have to be located on the seam. Only one of the brass gibs has screw marks on it so that must be put back in the same locations

- removed the elevation shaft: left handed thread and the elevation nut

There are only two rings (on the support) that are about 1” wide and separated by about 5” that come in contact with the column. These correspond to those two brightly plated bolts that are used to adjust column tightness.

-removed table mounting channels
- removed table from stand (8 bolts)

The stand was too flexible. I added some 1×4s and two pieces of 1/2” plywood to make a shelf. This stiffened the stand quite a bit. I also oiled the casters and experimented with them. They are not very good at making direction changes but once you get them oriented they roll easily. Two of the springs that go on the caster mechanism are missing.

I bought some springs to replace the missing ones on the two of the four casters. I had to bend and cut them because they were too long.

I cleaned many parts.

I installed the table frame (base assembly) onto the stand and installed the table mounting channels.

I assembled the support, column, gibs, elevation gears and shaft and then installed all that onto the base assembly.

I used wheel bearing grease in all the sliding surfaces with one exception which was 30W motor oil on the bearing that supports the elevating shaft assembly.

I started disassembling the arm. I got all parts of the latch assembly off except for the pin housing. That did not want to come out easily and I can clean it in place so I left it alone. The arm index pin consists of two parts and they are asymmetrical. I think they are identical, but not certain. I carefully taped them together and marked one side so I can’t install them upside-down. The arm index pin and pin housing fit tightly together and there is no lubrication. I will just clean them up and reassemble dry.


I took a careful look at the arm index pin and arm latch. I took some pictures as usual. The arm index pin is 2 parts and they are made to stack on top of each other in only one orientation. I think the pin could be inserted into the pin housing in either direction and work. The two halves of the pin are set up so that each one pushes against only one side of the arm latch when it engages. I tried putting just one half into the arm latch and it was loose. If you put it all together it’s tight. All the parts are made of steel. The arm latch (like the arm and support) are coated with a rather slippery gray paint. That paint job is really good. The arm index pin is not painted at all and actually feels rough on most of it, but smooth where it engages the arm latch.

To remove the power switch I had to remove a trim plate at the front of the arm. It was glued on. I’ll probably use Elmer’s rubber cement to reattach it later.

I did a comparison between the arm on this 1979 saw and a 1960 craftsman. I took a lot of pictures and I also weighed the arms. The 1960 Craftsman arm is all one piece (cast iron), weighs 30 pounds and is basically a solid tube. The 1979 saw’s arm is two pieces, aluminum and weighs 16 pounds. The 1979 arm is designed more like a beam: the cross-section is larger and the material is moved out to the perimeter. It has a large open section that makes it very easy to get to the arm latch mechanism and the wiring. Working on the 1960 Craftsman arm latch mechanism and wiring is much more difficult. The arm index pin housing is cast right into the arm in the 1960: it’s a separate piece in the 1979.

I reassembled the arm latching mechanism in the arm. The first few steps are simple
- insert the two halves of the arm index pin into the housing – take care to stack the two halves together correctly. If you get it wrong, I think the spring wouldn’t go around the protrusions.
- install the spring

The next step is tricky: I figured it out by trial an error. There is a metal rod called the index rod that has to be inserted into the holes in the arm index pin. It’s hard to press the pin in with one hand while inserting the rod with the other because you have to compress the spring. I clamped a big block across the worktable in front of the front end of the arm to keep it from moving and arranged some blocks and a clamp on the column end so that I could keep the arm index pin pushed in without holding it. I had to put a small block of wood under the front end of the lever assembly to get the angle right for inserting the rod. Once that rod was inserted, it was simple to continue.

- slide the guide down the arm lock rod assembly
- install the two bolts that hold down the pin in the clevis (near front of arm)
- install the guide and spring tension bracket with four bolts (near column end of saw)
- Put a bucket in place on the base assembly and place the arm on top
- raise/lower the column to get the arm latch collar to line up with the appropriate groove in the arm
- move the arm up close to the column and bolt on the rear arm.

At this point you need to follow the procedures in the manual to make sure the support/column tightness is right plus procedures for arm latching/locking

- verify that the arm index pin will move in and out
- make adjustments on the four bolts that hold the rear arm in place so that the arm rotates easily but there is no play up/down
- adjust the set screws on the support so that there is no play in the rotational direction
- check the arm latching and braking action and make adjustments as needed

I did not grease the arm index pin halves where they slide in the housing but I did grease the end where it engages with the arm latch collar and all the surfaces of the arm latch collar.


Today I disassembled the yoke/carriage/motor.
- remove handle: used a allen wrench with a pipe wrench

- remove the bevel scale
- remove four socket head cap screws that go through the retainer plate and index ring into the motor

- remove retainer plate

- remove the index ring: threaded the central cap screw into the plate to have something to grab

- from the back motor mount remove the nut, washer, motor cam and motor stud: motor is now separate from the yoke

- remove the bevel lock lever and yoke cap: the bolt/nut on the right side is left handed

- remove the bevel index pin, spring and knob assembly.

- loosen the big nut on the topside of the yoke to remove the yoke clamp stud and yoke lock handle: note the notches on the underside of the yoke that the protrusions on the yoke clamp stud fit into. the carriage is now separate from the yoke

- remove the left hand carriage cover (left is side with yoke lock)

- remove the rip lock knob, spring and shoe

- remove the right hand carriage cover (right is side with the rip lock knob) One of the screws was stuck and I first applied PB Blaster and then heat. I accidently melted the cover with the heat gun. Hopefully I can still use it
- remove the yoke index pin and associated parts

- remove the carriage bearings and associated parts: note two on left are eccentric to allow adjusting tighntess of the carriage on the arm. The two on the right have sleeves and are not adjustable.

The carriage bearings were rust-free, turned freely and seemed well lubed. I did not need to soak and relube as I’ve done with others.

I wanted to see inside the motor, plus I wanted to blow out any dust so I removed the plastic housing or shroud. I found it was very clean inside. The plastic shroud seems to have no function except to cover the motor’s interior parts and perhaps provide a duct for air flow. After removing the plastic shroud, I see that everything is metal except the fan is plastic. I did break one of the plastic posts/sleeves that had a female thread to accept the screws that hold the two parts of the shroud together. I tried gluing it back on but it didn’t work. I tapped the remaining part of the plastic post/sleeve with a 6-32 tap and used a 6-32 machine screw. The head on the screw was a little too large for the hole in the plastic shroud so I had to file it down. After blowing and brushing out all the dust I reassembled the housing.

I cleaned all the parts of the yoke and carriage.


I installed the carriage bearings onto the carriage: two adjustable on the left, two fixed on the right.

I find it’s easier to get the carriage bearings adjusted if you put just the carriage and bearings onto the arm – before attaching the yoke and motor. It’s easier to handle and to get access to the nuts/bolts where the adjustments are made. The carriage tension adjustment went well.

I removed the carriage from the arm and installed the yoke index pin. After that I attached the carriage to the yoke. Unfortunately, I installed the yoke lock handle on the wrong side. It’s supposed to go on the right, but I put it on the left. I didn’t discover that until much later when I tried to put the guard on and the yoke lock handle was in the way.

Install the bevel latch pin assembly into the yoke.

I placed the rip lock shoe in place on the carriage. This has to be done before installing the carriage/yoke onto the arm which was my next step.

To install the motor, I placed the motor on a board lying where the table will be. The yoke (installed on the arm) is lowered down into position around the motor. The motor has to be placed on a 2×4 to get it up high enough for this to work. Before lowering the yoke, place the motor stud in place: its for the rear motor mount.

Once the yoke is lowered into place, install (loosely) the yoke cap. The bolt on the left is normal, the one on the right is left handed.

Install the index ring and retainer plate with the four cap screws: parts of the bevel mechanism.

Install (loosely) the nut, washer, and motor cam on the rear motor mount

Tighten up the two bolts on the yoke cap and install the bevel lock lever. Adjust the bolts, so the lever can do it’s job to loosen/clamp the bevel mechanism. Tighten the bolt on the rear motor mount.

Install the bevel scale and yoke handle.

Push the switch end of the power cord through the slot in the back of the arm, and install the rear cover plate.

The power cord and the switch cord have to be routed through the grommets in the support bracket, along the inside of the arm and up to the switch at the front of the arm.

Attach the ground wire to the arm and the other four wires to the power switch.

Place the insulation rectangle in the grooves provided in the arm.

Install the power switch and switch guard with two screws.

Install the arm trim pad (cardboard), trim assembly and lever arm knobs onto the arm.

I used Elmers rubber cement to attach the front arm trim.

I did a preliminary Jon Eakes tuneup. All of these adjustments were pretty easy to do on this saw. When I tried to install the blade guard I discovered I put the yoke lock handle on the wrong side. I’ll have to remove the carriage/yoke/motor from the arm and remove/reinstall the carriage and yoke handle.

When installing the carriage covers, I found the screws were very hard to get in. The screws used are 10-32 self tapping. It seemed like they were cutting the threads anew when inserted. I changed them out for regular 10-32 machine screws. One of the holes was fouled up, so I used a 10-32 tap to rethread it.


I ordered a new right hand carriage cover. I found the original one that I melted was distorted so that the clear plastic rip indicator was dragging on the arm when I moved the carriage along the arm.

I removed the yoke/carriage/motor and removed/reinstalled the yoke lock handle on the right side. The mechanical part of the restoration is done!

8 comments so far

View Vtsawdustmaker's profile


6 posts in 193 days

#1 posted 11-05-2021 05:52 PM

Wow! Amazing amount of work and detail with the outcome a showroom piece. I just was provided the same model and when I opened the motor case, all the wires had been pulled off and I added two 2 photos to show the nightmare. I have search the internet for hours each day looking for help.

You provided a great photo of the motor. Do you place line power black on #5 and white on #6 ? Any chance you can send me a couple of pictures, especially showing (underneath) where each wire on the reset button is connected. I tried my ohm meter to find starting and running wiring but I do not trust my abilities. Thank you in advance.

View KTNC's profile


204 posts in 1707 days

#2 posted 11-05-2021 10:38 PM

You provided a great photo of the motor. Do you place line power black on #5 and white on #6 ? Any chance you can send me a couple of pictures, especially showing (underneath) where each wire on the reset button is connected. I tried my ohm meter to find starting and running wiring but I do not trust my abilities. Thank you in advance.

- Vtsawdustmaker

Hi Vtsawdustmaker:

Here are two pictures I have of the wiring area inside the motor:

These are both of the topside of that black panel. I did not take the black panel off so can’t help with the connections on the underside.

I zoomed up on my pics and here’s what I think I see (from the topside)
from the power cord

white goes to 3
black goes to 4

there’s a blue wire on 1 that disappears into the motor

this saw is set up for 120V so

black (manual says brown but it looks black to me) from inside the motor goes to 5
orange from inside the motor goes to 6

On page 6 of the user manual they show how to arrange the orange and brown wire to use either 120 or 240 Volts.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!

regards, Kerry

View Vtsawdustmaker's profile


6 posts in 193 days

#3 posted 11-05-2021 11:54 PM

Thank you so much Kerry.

View KTNC's profile


204 posts in 1707 days

#4 posted 11-06-2021 02:18 PM

Thank you so much Kerry.

- Vtsawdustmaker

Hi VtSawdustmaker:

Glad I could help!

If you haven’t put everything back together already …. once you’ve got all the wires in place could you take some pictures of the top and bottom of the black plate showing all the connections? Pictures of the connections on the capacitor would be good too. Once you confirm the motor works correctly with those connections, post the pictures here and you’ll be making this blog more complete and more useful.

Happy Radial Arm Sawing!

regards, Kerry

View Vtsawdustmaker's profile


6 posts in 193 days

#5 posted 11-06-2021 02:58 PM

Will do as it will perhaps be the only place on the internet with photos. I still can not find a wiring schematic even searching by the motor manufacturer.

View thedogfather2's profile


1 post in 112 days

#6 posted 01-24-2022 10:41 PM

Love the post. I was just given a craftsman radial arm saw by my neighbor. Her husband died 10 years ago and I know he didn’t touch it for about 10 years before that. Thanks to your post I am opening it up and discovering it is in rough shape. Dirt Doberman nests everywhere and it’s really rusted. The sled is locked up and I may have to hammer it off. Will try to send pictures of my progress just as you did.

View KTNC's profile


204 posts in 1707 days

#7 posted 01-24-2022 11:05 PM

Love the post. I was just given a craftsman radial arm saw by my neighbor. Her husband died 10 years ago and I know he didn’t touch it for about 10 years before that. Thanks to your post I am opening it up and discovering it is in rough shape. Dirt Doberman nests everywhere and it’s really rusted. The sled is locked up and I may have to hammer it off. Will try to send pictures of my progress just as you did.

- thedogfather2

You might want to spray with PB Blaster and let it soak before hammering.
Good Luck!!

View Vtsawdustmaker's profile


6 posts in 193 days

#8 posted 01-25-2022 02:52 AM

after some wire tracing,
trial and error and luck, i got the wire configuration correct as shown in these two photos.
- Vtsawdustmaker

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