Exterior Door Repair

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Blog entry by KTNC posted 10-17-2019 06:51 PM 1060 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Exterior Door Repair

I’m not a carpenter or contractor – just a DIY’er so the methods I used to do this door repair are probably not the best or most efficient. I found it quite challenging so I thought I’d document it here to hopefully help someone else with a similar problem.

Tools used
- hand held circular saw and guide
- hand saw to finish cut that circular couldn’t get all the way through
- hand held router and bit with bearing on top to trim away left over ridge from hand saw cut
- radial arm saw
- pipe clamps
- drill
- box cutter
- clamps
Materials used

- sand paper
- paint and primer
- thompson’s water sealer
- M-D L shaped door bottom with drip cap MD#81910
- CA glue
- Titebond III glue
- masking tape

Both of my workshop doors were damaged. The one with the window (front) was much worse.

I removed the front door and put it on sawhorses. The bottom was totally rotted out.
I cut away about four inches from the bottom. I found the door has a perimeter frame made of wood that is about 1 1/4 inch thick. Much of the door is hollow except for styrofoam. The faces of the door are plastic which is in very good condition. Below is a picture of the damaged section.

To make room for a new piece, I used a box cutter and some sand paper to remove some of the styrofoam.

The replacement is made from a doug fir 2×6. It’s made of two parts that are glued together. The top part is about 3/4 inch tall and has some notches cut out on the end to accomodate the raised rails on the plastic panels.

There are two 1/4 inch diameter, 6 inch long lag bolts that go through the replacement part and into the wooden frame.

I used CA glue to bond wood/wood and plastic/wood. In addition, I put some extra CA glue at the wood/plastic seam so as to act as a kind of caulking to keep water out.

I primed and painted the replacement section.

The thresholds and door frames were in pretty good shape. I just cleaned and applied Thompson’s Water Sealer to the threshold.
The damaged door had plastic seals with no rain cap. I bought L shaped aluminum door bottoms with rain caps. These should do a better job of keeping the rain away from the bottom of the door.

This is the old door bottom seal – made of plastic and attached with staples

Here is the new aluminum door bottom seal

The aluminum door bottoms are 36 inches long and have to be trimmed to overall length so they match the actual length of the door. In addition, the rain caps have to be trimmed to make clearance for where the door overlaps the frame on the edges.

The picture below shows the already cut door bottom being test fitted in the threshold. You can see why the drain cap must be notched but how the bottom part should extend the entire length.

Here’s the final result – repaired front door with new L shaped door bottom with rain cap.

Other Notes:
Clean the plastic panels before using CA glue. Once the CA glue is dry, I had to use 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove it so I could clean the plastic underneath.

Mr Clean magic eraser worked well for cleaning the plastic panels. I also used Goo Gone and Goof Off on more stubborn stains

Before painting the repaired door, best to rehang it to verify the space between the door and threshold is adequate to allow the new door bottom. On my first try, I had a clearance that varied from zero to 3/8 inch. To fix it, I had to trim the bottom and then repaint.

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