Delta 50-760 Dust Collector Conversion (in detail)

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Blog entry by JerryinCreek posted 08-18-2014 08:48 PM 14862 reads 11 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch


I have a very small shop and I couldn’t move the dust collection system (dcs) where it would be out of the way. The cloth bag filter sat so high that it would hit duct work in my shop. I also didn’t like emptying the plastic debris bag. It was difficult to remove and once removed debris from up in the cloth bag would fall to the floor.

I searched out all of the information I could find on making dcs conversions. One conversion that intrigued me was from Fong the Tool Tutor, and his You Tube video is included here. You will see that I incorporated many of his ideas into my build. I took his advice on the size of the barrel and to that I added a Thien baffle. In this blog I will give you a detailed description of how i put my system together and hopefully it will help you in your conversion.


  • Remove the cloth bag filter and replace it with a Wynn Environmental filter. This will give me an additional 12” of headspace.
  • Add a chip separator to keep the vast majority of debris in this collector and keep it from hitting the filter. And, minimize the times I have to empty the plastic debris bag.
  • Add a Thien baffle to the chip separator to make it as efficient as possible.


First I removed the cloth bag filter and the plastic debris bag. I then set about to modify the cart so it could accommodate the chip separator. I started by screwing on a piece of angle iron to the middle support of the cart.

I then made a shelf of melamine coated hardboard and screwed that to the new bracket and the outside edge of the cart.


You do need some way to seal the filter to the dcs. I purchased the ETG-55 gasket through Wynn Environmental ( and it slid in place easily after I trimmed it to size with a tin snips, as they had instructed. I’ve read where others have used foam insulation to make a seal, but knowing how well this gasket fits I’d strongly recommend buying it.

I then mounted the filter (#35A274BLOL) onto the dcs and attached it with the provided turnbuckles. Instructions can be found on the Wynn site (, with thanks to David T.


For the separator, I chose a 15 gallon plastic barrel, as suggested by Fong, the Tool Tutor, on a You Tube video

I purchased the drum (#4319T665) through McMaster-Carr ( The size is perfect for this cart!

I also purchased the Rockler ( Dust Rite Components (#34367) and cut off the elbow on one of the components. These components simply screw into each other, there is no need to drill holes for individual mounting screws.

The Dust Rite kit includes two self-adhesive discs for use as templates when cutting holes into the drum cover. I wanted to mount the elbow as close to the edge of the barrel as possible and the other component as close to the center as possible. Be sure to take into consideration the shoulders on these components and the rounded edge of the barrel. You get one chance to cut this right!

I adhered the paper templates and made my cuts with a Dremel ( rotary tool and spiral bit. This cut through the lid easily and gave me fairly smooth opening.

Then just screw on your Dust Rite components.


The inlet to the dcs is 5” and I needed to connect 4” hose between the barrel and that inlet. I bought a 4” to 5” adaptor (TAW1027) from Rockler, but how to connect the two 5” pieces? I found a connector at my local home improvement store. It’s a PlumbQwik P3000-44. I took out the rubber insert and the stainless steel connector then fit perfectly between the two 5” parts. And, the straps with worm-screws make for a very secure connection.


I’d never even heard of this until I started doing my research! The idea is to make the chip separator more efficient. The incoming debris rides on an extended portion of this baffle, then drops through an opening and down into the barrel where it can’t escape. For additional information on the Thien baffle check out this site: Here’s how I constructed mine:

I used 1/4” hardboard and cut a disc the size of the inside of the barrel. I then cut the baffle to create an opening for the debris to fall through. You will cut 240 of the 360 degrees of the disc (see photo below). The width of the cut is 1 1/8th”. I was able to find this dimension by following the instructions I found in this You Tube video:

I mounted the baffle to the barrel lid with 1/2’’ threaded rod. The most difficult of this build is to have the outlet of the elbow exit at the very beginning of the extended portion of the baffle, while keeping the extended portion of the baffle as close to the inside of the barrel as possible. I put a finishing nail through the center of the baffle so I could lower it into the drum. With the lid on, I reached through the center hole and again grabbed the nail pulling the baffle into position. With my other hand I marked the lid and baffle for the first threaded rod. I found that the first rod should be one holding the extended portion of the baffle in position. This will allow you to orient the baffle with the edge of the elbow and wall of the barrel. The other two supports are then easier to properly position.


The Wynn filter greatly increased the airflow of my dcs and the chip separator works great! The new filter also improves the air quality in my shop as it filters down to 0.5 microns compared to the 1 micron of the bag filter. Total cost of this conversion was around $275. I think it turned out great and I’m very glad I did it!
You can see the separator in action in this video.

-- Jerry, Johnson Creek, WI "If it was meant to be different it would be."

8 comments so far

View Don10's profile


40 posts in 1820 days

#1 posted 08-19-2014 02:01 AM

Wow – great blog Jerry! How long did you have to stay away from woodworking to “manufacture” this beast? I need to do the same. I have this nagging cough and I think I know where it is coming from.

-- Don, Silver City, If you always do what what you always did, you’ll always get what you always got.

View hotncold's profile


786 posts in 1961 days

#2 posted 08-19-2014 01:52 PM

Fantastic write up Jerry! Even I can follow along!

-- Dennie - Tennessee

View exelectrician's profile


2339 posts in 2844 days

#3 posted 10-27-2014 01:42 AM

Nice video blog of what you did on your Delta DC. does the dust ever settle at the bottom when the first barrel gets fairly full? I noticed that there was a lot of swirling going with my setup, so I put a vertical baffle below the thien, and it cut down the swirling to some degree.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View JerryinCreek's profile


216 posts in 2258 days

#4 posted 10-27-2014 01:59 PM

The swirling is not really a problem. The problem comes when I don’t empty the first barrel in a timely fashion! I need to empty it before it gets up to the Thien baffle, otherwise it goes right into the bag. Happened to me for the first time the other day, thoiught I could squeeze just a few more operations before emptying – lesson learned!

-- Jerry, Johnson Creek, WI "If it was meant to be different it would be."

View Skip4's profile


1 post in 1581 days

#5 posted 03-19-2015 09:39 PM

Great concept and good description.
I have read this several times and am a bit confused about process you used to connect the 5” inlet to the 4”in Rockler inlet.

Once you remove the stock “Y” plastic connector it opens the 5” port into the DCS and then you have one 5” opening needing to connect to the 4” inlet to the separator. Not sure where the second 5” port you describe above comes into play. And why would you need to remove the rubber gasket?

Also, is it your opinion that the inlet port to the separator needs to be centered on the lid? In Fong’s original video the two ports on the separator are opposite each other on either side.

Thank you for your help. I am in the process of making one of these and just do not want to do it twice!

-- Skip4

View JerryinCreek's profile


216 posts in 2258 days

#6 posted 03-20-2015 03:03 PM

There is only one 5” port and that is shown in the last still photo of the group (the completed conversion). It is directly below the motor. I had to find a way to mate the 5” port to the Rockler 5” to 4” converter. I could not find a union to connect the two 5” pieces together. That’s where the PlumbQwik P3000-44 comes in. By taking out the rubber gasket you are left with a union that will allow you to connect the two 5” pieces together.

The shop ductwork feeds into a port that is very close to the side of the barrel (refer to the completed conversion photo). This is essential to allow the debris to enter into the airstream and swirl onto the baffle before falling into the barrel. You may want to do some on-line research for a better explanation of how this works. My research concluded that the other port (going into the DC fan) should be centered (as much as practical) for best efficiency. The way I positioned mine has allowed for easy access to undo the connections to empty the barrel. I also ended-up using spring-loaded clamps to really ease the connection/disconnection and now it’s a breeze!

Since completing this project, I have taken a strip of electrical tape and used it to make a line on the barrel to show when the debris is nearing the baffle so I know it’s time to empty. Continuing to fill the barrel and getting too close to the baffle will defeat the baffle and not allow it to filter-out the chips.

I am still very pleased with this set-up and have no thoughts of replacing it. Just remember to empty the barrel and not overfill it. Doing this you will see that only small amounts of dust end up in the plastic bag.

-- Jerry, Johnson Creek, WI "If it was meant to be different it would be."

View daviddoria's profile


67 posts in 2355 days

#7 posted 01-07-2018 01:29 PM

Hi Jerry,

When you take the rubber gasket out of the PlumbQwik P3000-44, you are left with metal-to-metal (at the collector) and metal-to-plastic (at the converter) connections. Are those air tight? Did you need to use tape or something to seal them?



View JerryinCreek's profile


216 posts in 2258 days

#8 posted 01-07-2018 03:20 PM

I did not have any problem making a good seal, but you could always add some self-fusing if you had a concern.

-- Jerry, Johnson Creek, WI "If it was meant to be different it would be."

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