Delta T2 Fence #6: How to setup and install on a Craftsman tablesaw

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Jamie posted 01-19-2008 07:58 AM 24802 reads 10 times favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 5: Before/After Pictures Part 6 of Delta T2 Fence series no next part

Since I have installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman tablesaw, I have had a few people asking how I installed it, especially, how I installed the fence so that it would zero properly. For those that are thinking about installing this fence on a craftsman, you WILL have to drill new holes in the rails. You can use one of the existing holes, but you will not be able to ‘0’ the fence.

I wish that I had taken pictures of each step to further clarify the information listed below. Looking back now I realize that it would have helped quite a few people. I may be able to do some sketches and post them here…

First, I went ahead and attached the square tubing to the front rail. Then with a pencil, I made a mark on the front rail at ‘0’ on the measuring tape that is attached to the square tubing.

Then, I disassembled the front rail and tubing. I had a ‘0’ reference point on the front rail from the previous step. I placed both front and back rails together so that I could get my ‘0’ reference point transferred from the front rail to the back rail.

Next, I placed the fence on the tablesaw and moved it to where the zero position would be (against the blade), as if the fence was actually attached, making sure to square the fence with the table. The T2 fence has a plexiglass (or clear plastic) sight where you read the attached measuring tape through. I made a mark on the table where the reference line on the sight was. I then drew a line at that point on the saw top from the front to the back, of course making sure that the line was square to the table.

Next, I layed the front rail on the top of the saw, matching up the ‘0’ reference mark on the rail to the line that I drew on the saw table top. I then measured 1.75 inches from each side of the saw table and drew a line on the front rail for each. I did the same for the center of the table at 10”. I then did the same for the rear rail.

I then drilled the holes. I actually offset the holes a bit higher and did not align them with the existing holes that were in the rails because I wanted to make sure that the fence was as close to the table as it would go without scraping across the table when you moved it or riding too high above the table. The fence sides are adjustable up and down, so you do have a bit of tweaking there too. If you look at the blog, you will notice in the fourth picture down on the before and after pictures, that the holes that mount the rail are up slightly from the original holes.

Once you mount the rails and put the fence on, you may have to adjust the plexiglass sight on the fence a little. It is adjustable side to side, but when I installed it, I barely had to make any adjustment to it at all.

Like I said before, I really was really worried that I would mess it up, but if you take your time and make sure that all of your measurements are accurate, everything will work out fine. All I can say is that it made a 200% improvement on the tablesaw. I have been using it now for a few weeks and it is extremely accurate. It’s nice being able to set the fence on a measurement, and not have to double check the fence to the blade to ensure that what it says is what it’s going to cut.

I am by no means an expert at installing table saw fences, and really, I was taking a big chance on messing up the fence and it eventually not being usable (or returnable). I took my time thinking about how I could accomplish the installation. There may be a better way to install this fence on a craftsman tablesaw, but this way worked for me.

Hope this helps… as stated above, you will have to drill all new holes in the rails to get it to work right.

-- Jamie, Kentucky

14 comments so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27249 posts in 4875 days

#1 posted 01-19-2008 12:37 PM

Hi Jamie,

I couldn’t get mine to work on my Craftsman saw (See the post I left Sammy). My wings are 1 3/8” thick and by the time I lower the angle iron in order to mate the fence with the saw surface I would have had to drill through the edge of my wings- which would not have worked. So I am guessing that you ran into the same problem which is why you opted to drill out the rails rather than the wings.

Thanks. This post clears up my problem. I am not sure if I am willing to give it another try or not since it would not be possible to return the fence but I will think about it.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Sammy's profile


14 posts in 4835 days

#2 posted 01-19-2008 05:09 PM

Thanks Jamie, makes perfect sense and that was the direction I was thinking but was a bit worried about the fence clearance. I’ll continue to dry fit and test prior to marking the holes for drilling. I’ll take pictures along the way to hekp out any one else with the same model saw. My wings are 1 1/2 inch think so I should be able to aviod the problem that sbryan55 had. Again thanks for the tips and you just made my weekend!

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

View John's profile


5 posts in 4834 days

#3 posted 01-19-2008 05:40 PM

Thanks for sharing your experience with this installation. I plan to attempt this on my Craftman 113 series.

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 4867 days

#4 posted 01-19-2008 08:14 PM

Sbryan55, Good to see another hillbilly on here, but sorry that it won’t work for you. I guess that I should have stated that the table must be 1.5” thick.

Sammy, Glad that this helps you. One other reason that I liked this fence is because the fence faces are aluminum and attached by t-bolts which makes them easy to take off and attach some extruded aluminum sides with all kinds of t-tracks. Imagine all the clamping and jigging possibilities.. If you could get some pictures during the install, that would save alot of people the headache trying to decipher my instructions..

John, It should work on any Craftsman 113 series 10” table saw as long as the table is 1.5” thick..

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View Sammy's profile


14 posts in 4835 days

#5 posted 01-21-2008 04:52 PM

Thanks for all the help guys! This website is great and the people are fantastic with all the help. When I’m done I’ll try and take Jamie’s experience and match it up with mine to create a working document to described how to install this great fence.

-- Sammy, Pittsburgh PA

View johnd's profile


2 posts in 4818 days

#6 posted 02-04-2008 05:14 PM

HI Jamie,

I am working on doing this same retro fit to a similar vintage craftsman. I believe mine is a 103xxxx model I think it was made by Seely making it late 40’s early 50’s it has just the one dial on the front that controls the blade height and then you push it in to change the angle.

Great writeup and very helpful. Did you have to enlarge the existing holes that mounted the original fence? The holes in the saw mounting the original fence on mine are much smaller than the bolts that came with the delta t2. Just curious. Thanks in advance.


View Ben 's profile


164 posts in 4417 days

#7 posted 03-10-2009 06:20 PM

Hi Jamie,

I followed your directions exactly and it worked like a champ. I have a craftsman 113.298240. Thanks for the detailed instructions. One little trick I found was to put a strip of blue painters tape across the front and back of the table along the line where the top of rails need to line up. This will make sure you get the rails at the perfect height before you start drilling into your table top. I also used a drill press to drill the holes in my rails.

View polopapa's profile


10 posts in 4098 days

#8 posted 01-24-2010 04:03 PM

I know this is an older post, but based on the experiences from those of you who have undertaken this project, I tackled it yesterday as well. I opted to drill new holes in the cast iron table saw itself. I bought some cobolt drill bits, and I have to tell you, the drilling went quite easily. I’m looking forward to using a table saw with a reliable rip fence. The old standard Craftsman fence was really a pain.

View withheld's profile


17 posts in 3739 days

#9 posted 01-20-2011 05:30 AM

Hi Jamie, Your posts inspired to do this upgrade on my saw. I finished the marking steps this evening, and took lots of photos. After I finish, I’ll make the pics available. So far, It’s been clear, although I was slightly thrown off by the 1.75” and 10” specs for the front bolt holes. But afer a moment it made sense. On the rear rail, the center bolt hole is not at 10” on my saw, at least. So a little clarification there would be good. Kudos on a good set of instructions!

View EMTedu's profile


1 post in 3705 days

#10 posted 02-21-2011 12:56 AM

New guy here, I also just installed a T2 fence on my Craftsman saw. I wasn’t able to make the bolt holes work, so instead I purchased a 5’ piece of 2.5×2.5” angle and drilled all new holes. Adding the half inch eliminated the “holes to close to the edge” problem. Maybe this will help someone else.

View withheld's profile


17 posts in 3739 days

#11 posted 02-28-2011 05:13 PM

I have one more question on this upgrade. When I tilt the blade, I find that the splitter assembly hits the back rail. It also seems that it’s the cast metal parts the splitter is attached to that is hitting the rear rail. Not sure if grinding those parts would be such a good thing. Any one know of a good replacement for a splitter/ blade guard for the craftsman saw? I plan to look around. Will let folks know what I find.

View Steveg1's profile


10 posts in 3374 days

#12 posted 03-11-2012 12:17 PM


I just installed my Delta T2, thanks for the instructions.

It seemed that there wouldn’t be enough room to drill a hole in the fence and still have enough metal to hold the bolt. That wasn’t true. My table face is 1.5 inches and the front rail was installed .75 inches down from the top. This worked fine.

-- Steve, Dewitt NY, Retired and ready to make more sawdust.

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 4867 days

#13 posted 01-18-2013 03:54 AM

I’m glad I could help everyone out with this! Honestly it’s been forever since I’ve been on here. We moved and I took quite a long hiatis from woodworking. A little too long.. Time to get back into the groove again!

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View banjojam's profile


12 posts in 2280 days

#14 posted 06-19-2015 05:31 AM

I just installed my T-2 on my craftsman 152.221140 and followed this it worked great. I just need to figure out how to install the power switch.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics