Joinery Bench

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Blog series by Holbs updated 05-13-2018 12:57 AM 22 parts 37988 reads 26 comments total

Part 1: Starting off with the basics: getting Stanley #8 ready

12-08-2017 06:29 AM by Holbs | 2 comments »

And so I start my next project, a joinery bench. 36” wide by 24” deep. Will be using laminated douglas fir 4.5” or 5” thick (depending on how things go with the 2×12’s I bought) with 8/4 hard maple apron and front vise chop. 4”x6” for legs and 4”x4” for stretchers. Unsure yet for a trestle style base or straight legs. Already ordered Benchcraft Moxon vise hardware.I am going to try to use (mostly) hand tools instead of machinery ...

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Part 2: Stanley #8 and Stanley #40 all set to get to work on roughing lumber.

12-14-2017 06:34 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

I had a rough time with the Stanley #8: the frog wiggled, was not square, was not flat, chip breaker is either not original or something else but I had to take off 1/8” of chip breaker so that both blade & breaker would retract fully. Was a good learning experience on how to make things right with a plane. For the Stanley #40, it had original squared blade. Took time to figure out about camber but I went with 4” at a 30 degree bevel angle. How to ensure you are close to y...

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Part 3: Next up...understanding hand saws!

12-15-2017 04:36 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

When you jump into the hand planing realm, it has come to my attention that I would need good quality home made winding sticks. Sure I can buy them from Woodpecker or somewhere, but that does not give me experience that I’m chasing after. To cut the wood for winding sticks, I need a hand saw for that. Since I’ve been spoiled with my table saws, I have not done anything to my assorted collection of hand saws. That is about to change. I’ll be cherry picking the best coupl...

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Part 4: saw cleaning

12-16-2017 07:53 PM by Holbs | 3 comments »

What a beautiful Saturday to….sand even more! Sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The real bad saw plates I have cooking in my electrolysis tub on at a time. So far, I can only see etchings of a Pax backsaw and Disston 98. This is ongoing :) But needs to get done. More saws to clean up and sharpen. Not going to do all saws, of course. Just the ones that look like keepers. I figure, 4 panel saws (2 rip / 2 crosscut), 2 or 3 backsaws.I have a couple that have serious caked on...

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Part 5: First time jointing and sharping a hand saw: success! I think

12-22-2017 07:34 AM by Holbs | 1 comment »

Thanks to Brit for his step by step method of sharping hand saws. Has really helped me alot, along with Paul Sellers vids as well.My Veritas saw jointer and Veritas angle file holder arrived today along with the roll of saw files. Went right to work on a rip saw. This saw is a 5 1/2 PPI and started off with 0 degree rake. I changed to a 7 degree rake. Took about 3 hours as this saw has never been sharpened in 50 years I bet. Next time it should take half of that.I still have to measure ...

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Part 6: Rip and Crosscut handsaws reshaped and sharpened for use

12-24-2017 07:10 AM by Holbs | 2 comments »

My finger aches and blisters can attest to my lack of experience when it comes to reshaping handsaw teeth and sharpening. Of course, the rip saw was easy since no fleam. Crosscut took awhile. And I messed up the rake on the crosscut as I forgot to change from 7 degrees to 12. Oh well… it’s going to stay that way for a long long time.

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Part 7: Testing out newly sharpened Rip and Crosscut saws on 4"x6"

12-29-2017 05:15 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

I wanted to see how these newly sharpened saws cut through wood. I have a 8’ piece of 4”x6” and cut 4 pieces at 20” lengths. And I wanted to see how straight I could now cut with properly tuned saws (no such thing as a straight line any other time in my past with saws). I’m happy! I followed the line around nearly perfect, maybe a 16th off here or there. I think that is not too shabby for this bulk of material. Used the rip saw for 20% of the cutting, cros...

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Part 8: creating a split top saw bench

01-01-2018 06:10 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

Now that I have my hand saws in order (rip, crosscut, veritas rip & crosscut tenon saws, and dovetail saws… I will be working on my other backsaws after a time), I need a place to really start sawing. I need a saw bench! The only spare lumber laying around is some 4”x6””…. :)I do not trust myself doing fancy joinery as of yet. So went with double bridle joints (no dovetails…but will peg these guys). All lumber was dimensioned with machinery as...

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Part 9: Finished saw bench...whew. Now can hand saw with delight.

01-07-2018 11:12 PM by Holbs | 0 comments »

Now I can soon hand saw pieces for my joinery bench. HUGE difference between 20” height & body mass over the blade instead of waist level when it comes to hand sawing.First time going to town with chopping extra large mortises and bridal joints. Came out ok though could of done much better.Did not use any stretchers or drawbore pins, just glue. This is not exactly heirloom quality so do not expect it to be around in 50 years :)

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Part 10: I have more planes than I thought...

01-15-2018 05:05 AM by Holbs | 1 comment »

I wanted to rehab a #7, #5 and #4 1/2 Stanley’s in preparation of dimensioning lumber starting this week. I was unsure what I had so pulled out every metal hand plane (not counting wooden planes or specialty planes) to check my inventory from all the auctions and garage sales I’ve been hitting for $5-$10 per lot. Hmm.. I think I’m set for volume of needed handplanes:

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Part 11: My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench

02-05-2018 06:14 AM by Holbs | 5 comments »

This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48” length (these are 2”x12” boards...

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Part 12: My first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple 1.5" thick

02-23-2018 07:11 AM by Holbs | 2 comments »

Another milestone accomplished: my first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple at 1.5” thick. 95% success on first try. Granted, took me 4 hours while Paul Sellers can do it in 5 minutes :) There are some small gaps that I can live with due to the board being cut on my miter saw that I found out after the fact, was not square for the edge. Had to do some trickery to get it square after I already cut the tails.

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Part 13: Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.

02-27-2018 06:02 AM by Holbs | 4 comments »

Making progress with the 1.5” thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5” thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I’m really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fi...

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Part 14: Apron half blind and through dovetail'ing complete. Can now visualize the joinery bench!

02-28-2018 05:59 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

Thanks to Loren about correcting me about which saw to use for dovetails. I thought to use a 14 TPI Veritas crosscut backsaw since sawing does go across the grain, which caused me to apply force/torque which in turn caused a horrible time following lines. Upon the suggestion, I swapped to a 12 TPI Veritas rip backsaw and big difference with the speed and control.So now the front half blind dovetails and the rear through dovetails are completed in the 1.5” thick hard maple apron. Plan...

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Part 15: Apron and table top glued together, Benchcraft hardware installed

03-05-2018 01:37 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

I’ve never chopped out so much wood :) Kudos to the Dewalt HD brand chisels for being fantastic beaters.So here are the pieces prior to glue up. Lots of chopping out wood (I did use my Bosch router to hog out most of the wood for the side aprons) and chisel walls to make that crisp clean line even though nobody will see it :) Made for good practice for the side apron mortises and dovetails. Don’t worry about the glue at one of the dovetails…the glue leaked over somewhat w...

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Part 16: Joinery bench top 99% completed. Now to start working on phase 2: the base

03-10-2018 07:17 PM by Holbs | 2 comments »

Whew. I’m very glad I decided to build a joinery bench as a learning experience before tackling a full size Roubo work bench. Lots of mistakes and learning how to correct (to a point). Hopefully, not so many mistakes when it comes time for the Roubo.I used my #8, #5, #4, low angle, and scrub plane to flatten the top to a satisfactory level. I am still debating on leaving all visible gaps as a testament to my error prone ways for future projects, or not. Some sanding, BLO or shellac,...

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Part 17: Getting around to get the 4"x6" legs in order

04-23-2018 04:05 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

Back at it… dimensioned the 4”x6” legs and feet. Hand cut tenons (practice, practice, practice). Initially, tried the Veritas tenon saw at 12 TPI but it struggled through the massive depth. Pulled out a backsaw I cleaned up and tried it out. Horrible long time cuts! Of course, it probably has not been sharpened in 50 years…so out comes the saw files. Jointed, filed and sharpened with a 8° negative rake at 10 TPI. Now, cuts through like butter. So now the tenon...

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Part 18: I hope this is the last time I work with 4"x6" joinery.

04-30-2018 04:48 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

Got around to the dreadful 4”x6” mortises, tenons, and bridal joints. Getting a little burned out doing massive joinery like this. Looking forward to doing the more civil 1/4” or 1/2” stuff!4 leg pieces at 4”x6” with 4” tenon into 4” mortise on the 2 feet.the 4 bridal joints at each corner for the 4”x4” front and rear facing pieces.I have 2 more 4”x4” for the sides bridal joinery to do.Then 2”x4” stretchers ...

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Part 19: Can see light at end of the tunnel! All joinery completed and dry fitted to satisfaction.

05-06-2018 03:39 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

With the use of 4”x6” for legs, I went ahead and did a bridal joint for left and right, and mortise/tenon for front/back 4”x4” pieces. Added smaller stretcher mortise/tenon down low to help stability. All dry fitted.

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Part 20: all parts sanded, 3 coats shellac, corners broken, Lie-Nielsen dowel plate installed

05-07-2018 02:48 AM by Holbs | 2 comments »

All parts taken outside this nice breezy 75 degree Reno, NV day for sanding 240 grit outside (good ‘ol Workmate 450!).Notice mortise error in pedestal. Was distracted and read the wrong lines. Cut out not just tenon area but whole work piece area.Broke all corners with a block plane.3 coats of Shellac Sealcoat.Configured pedestals with front & rear roundovers and made feet.Installed Lie-Nielsen dowel plate on table top to sit 1/16” under flush. Drilled exact holes all the ...

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Part 21: Drawbore pins made, spacer blocks installed, example of bad offset measurement, base complete

05-11-2018 04:21 AM by Holbs | 2 comments »

With the use of my Lie-Nelson dowel plate, I hammered out 24 drawbore pins of 3 1/2” long at 3/8” round with 4 7” long ones for pinning dovetail corners. Tried the riving method as you can see with the left over waste. ———————Installed 2 spacers in the mortise I made a error on. With tenon installed, now a nice tight fit. ——————And this is what happens when you try different measurements w...

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Part 22: Completed last couple steps

05-13-2018 12:57 AM by Holbs | 0 comments »

I was undecided what to modify (if at all) the front moveable chop. Knowing I will be cutting at angles, I went ahead and did my first ever attempt at a lambs tongue via freehand. First, had to cut out the waste which was easy by many saw kerf cuts and chisel, but scratched my head as to how to flatten the bevel: lots of crank neck chiseling, filing, and sanding. ——————-Once that was done, some final sanding in places and more shellac here ...

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