Saving A Jet JWP-15CS From Dump #2: disassembly day 1 & 2

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Blog entry by Holbs posted 03-16-2015 02:22 AM 3157 reads 1 time favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Saved For The Day Part 2 of Saving A Jet JWP-15CS From Dump series Part 3: Electrolysis Attempt #1 »

This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I’m skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.

The metal “keys” seem to be unmovable. At least, I did not try very hard for fear of damage. Is there a trick or special tool to remove these keys so I can get the blocks off?

The column support risers are not 100% disassembled. The bearings for the chain sprockets seem fine. There is a retaining ring on the bottom (I have no retaining ring tool, yet!). I would like to totally disassemble these columns, but unsure how to proceed. At $21 a pop from Jet, I think I can keep these existing bearings.

I know I need a bearing pulley tool to get off cutter head bearings. I’ll see about getting one this coming week. And also, finding a friendly mechanic shop to re-install new bearings ($18×2 from Jet). During research of de-install and re-install of cutter head, good time to put fresh bearings in anyways.

Anyone know how to remove the inner most roller? I had to gently spread the forks out to get #1 and #2 roller out. But I fear spreading any further due to damage.

The Jet power switch box looks brand new. Thankfully, it was sealed up really good.

I’ll have to buy a new handle. This one is gone.

I’ll also have to get a couple NEW Jet ID labels.

And the rest of the pictures.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

19 comments so far

View TheFridge's profile


10859 posts in 2093 days

#1 posted 03-16-2015 02:36 AM

The handle might polish up on a buffing wheel.

The Motor may need new bearings at worse. Maybe try pulling it apart and cleaning it and giving it a test run.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Holbs's profile


2262 posts in 2637 days

#2 posted 03-16-2015 02:39 AM

The circular handle wheel is ok (yes, i’ll look into polishing it). But there is suppose to be a 4” horizontal handle attached to the wheel that was broken off that needs replacing (you can see the broken part on the handle).

motor & bearings. will look into that. any “SAFE” way to test a possible damaged motor? wouldn’t want to cause a fire or anything in my garage

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View Greg In Maryland's profile

Greg In Maryland

553 posts in 3605 days

#3 posted 03-16-2015 03:08 AM

For rust removal investigate Evaporust and electrolysis. Both will take all that rust off, though there will be some elbow grease needed to make the parts shiny.

Good luck, oh and please go back to where you purchased the planer and smack them for me. Hard. Really hard. I really think that is the only solution for an idiot who would let a piece of equipment like that just rust away exposed to the weather.


View Holbs's profile


2262 posts in 2637 days

#4 posted 03-16-2015 03:10 AM

Watching youtube vids for electrolysis now. pretty good for larger sized items.
Evaporust… yep. Will hit some auto stores tomorrow to see if in stock (AC delco should have it)

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View joey502's profile


558 posts in 2125 days

#5 posted 03-16-2015 03:51 AM

I do not think it looks bad for the 2 years outside. It is going to be some work but you should end up with a nice machine afterward.

View Rob's profile


704 posts in 3678 days

#6 posted 03-16-2015 04:29 AM

To free up any rusted-together parts, spray them down really well with PB Blaster and let it penetrate for a while. It might take a couple applications. If you aren’t familiar with it, it should be near the WD-40 at Walmart or any auto parts store.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View Ironwing_1's profile


11 posts in 2562 days

#7 posted 03-16-2015 05:22 AM

That’s a great score…hope you can get it running. For the price you paid, it should definitely be worth it even if you have to buy some extra parts.

If you have a harbor fright near you, get yourself familiar with their offerings if you’re not already. As the saying goes, don’t trust your life or livelihood to them, but for one-off projects like this, they’ve got a plethora of useful tools: gear & bearing pullers, mallets you don’t mind destroying, etc. Some of them also stock 1-gallon jugs of evapo-rust.

For the motor: Does it spin smoothly? If so, there’s a chance all the damage is superficial, go ahead and fire it up. Bolt/clamp it to a 2×8 and weight it down to keep it from moving about. Get/make yourself a 220v extension cord, stand back (or put it in your driveway), and see what happens. It should immediately spin up, then click as the governor kicks in. If it does anything else, unplug immediately and seek professional help. Be ready to unplug it and keep it away from puddles of water, gasoline etc, and its not likely to damage anything other than itself, worst case.

Does it spin, but rough? May need new bearings. They’re usually not expensive or hard to find. You’ll want to yank the pulley and fan, open up the motor and replace the bearings. Once they’re replaced, it should spin smoothly and you can test it out.

If it doesn’t spin at all, the armatures may be all rusted and you’ll probably want to get a new motor. I hear there are places that repair motors and might be able to help if it’s not completely destroyed, but I have no experience with that sort of service.

For the metal keys: +1 on the PB B’laster. Also consider applying heat (via propane torch) to get the arbors to expand and free up the keys. Try to avoid using the PB B’laster and torch at the same time.

View Robert's profile


3602 posts in 2088 days

#8 posted 03-16-2015 10:20 AM

I used 4 rebars one in each corner and 2 amp setting overnight.

As far as the bearings, I’ve owned machinery for years and never had to replace a bearing in anything. That being said, I guess since you’ve got it apart do it, but not for $21 a pop. You should be able to get bearings a lot cheaper. There should be a number on the bearing you can match if not you can match the OD and ID. Check out Big Bearing Store.

I wouldn’t buy a new wheel before trying to refurb it. Maybe some 320 grit and wd40 followed by a buffing wheel would be worth a try, no?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View canadianchips's profile


2632 posts in 3604 days

#9 posted 03-16-2015 11:02 AM

So far you have some TIME and a few dollars in bearings into this.
After you tear it down and rebuild it you will appreciate the machine and look after it even better.
I have seen motors in worse enviroments and they are still running.
Turn it by hand before pluggin it in.
UNless it has been sitting under water, chances are the inner windings are okay.
I am getting excited to see this project when you are done.
(If it were me I would take it all apart , put it back together and have very few pieces LEFT OVER, thats how I roll) LOL

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View Roger's profile


21030 posts in 3411 days

#10 posted 03-16-2015 11:51 AM

Wow! This is like restoring an old motorcycle or car. One heck of project, for sure. Good luck with it.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

View johnstoneb's profile


3131 posts in 2780 days

#11 posted 03-16-2015 01:11 PM

That doesn’t look bad at all electrolysis or citric acid will take that rust right off. I would look at citric acid over electrolysis. The amount you will need to cover the parts. Citric acid will be much cheaper. There are a number of posts here that cover both electrolysis and citric acid. That motor I would clean up the exterior blow the interior out and see if it won’t run.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Julian's profile


1525 posts in 3298 days

#12 posted 03-16-2015 02:29 PM

I would definitely spend the time to get this planer back into running condition. FYI; you can get bearings and other industrial parts from companies such as Kaman, McMaster-Carr, Grainger and many others. If you find one locally you won’t have to pay for shipping. Buying parts direct from Jet (manufacturers) often cost 2X as much.
Good luck.

-- Julian

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3297 days

#13 posted 03-17-2015 12:25 AM

That rust on the motor housing doesn’t concern me at all IF the motor spins freely. The guys on the Forestry Forum swear by Blue Creeper for freeing up stuck/rusted parts. You will have a great machine when you are done and you will know it inside out. I still think you did well. I would just sand that rust on the table with a ROS and some WD40 followed by paste wax. It should clean up fine.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Bigrock's profile


292 posts in 3570 days

#14 posted 03-17-2015 01:38 AM

I would like to add one item to your list of parts. Change the cutter head with a helical head cutter. Yes, they are costly, but look at Grizzly web site and they may be on sale and get the bearings also. Then you will have a great machine. Yes, this project will take some time, but this is a very good machine.
If you are not sure about your motor skills, take to a local motor shop. They can repair it for a lot less than a new motor and it may only need new bearings. Tell them you have little money. Trade sweeping floors for the repair and see if they will work with you.

View Holbs's profile


2262 posts in 2637 days

#15 posted 03-17-2015 01:55 AM

bigrock… $800 for a helical cutter head is $700 more than what my wallet can allow for the moment, sadly :( This project gives me a in depth understanding of how a planer operates. Just like when I tore apart my 6” Rockwell jointer. Example: my Rigid 4661 cutter head assembly moves up and down with the bottom table being static. Who knew that the big boy planers were opposite: cutter head assembly is static while the bottom table moves up and down :)

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

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