How I Do Hand Plane Rehabs #9: Putting it All Together

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Blog entry by HokieKen posted 12-05-2016 04:31 PM 1033 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: Breakin' Chips Part 9 of How I Do Hand Plane Rehabs series Part 10: Flattening the Sole and the Sides »

Well we’ve finished most of our grunt work. All that’s left to do is finish up the base and get this guy ready to make some shavings!

The next thing to do is to flatten the sole of the plane and to polish up the sides (maybe flatten them as well depending on what the planes going to be used for). We’ll handle that in a later entry but before we do that, we’re going to put this plane back together.

Why do I reassemble it before working on the rest of the body? I’ll explain that in more detail in the next entry ;-P

So first, let’s tidy up some stuff from previous work…

We sanded our knob and tote down to bare wood and gave them all of the Boiled Linseed Oil they could handle. Some people finish theirs differently than I do but for me, it’s just the BLO. Now I’m going to put a coat of paste wax on and they’re ready for use.

I apply the wax with fine steel wool. I do the knob in the drill press, same as I did when I applied the oil. I work the wax onto the tote by hand.

I let the wax cure to a haze then buff it out with some cheesecloth.

Now for the frog. If we recall, we removed the lateral adjustment lever and the depth adjuster fork due to needing to flatten the iron-bedding face. We wouldn’t have removed that lever if we didn’t have to but, since we did we have to put it back.

I put the lever in place, put the back side of the retaining pin on an anvil, and give the head of the pin a whack with a cold chisel. That does the trick.

I put the depth adjustment fork back on and drive the pin in place (sorry forgot to take pic) and our frog is ready to “hop”.

No we’ll install the frog roughly in position. I like to put the iron/chipbreaker on and then finalize the frogs position before tightening the screws completely.

I put some paraffin wax on all of the screws prior to installing them. It helps prevent seizing and corrosion in the threads.

Now I’ll hold the iron and chipbreaker in place with the lateral lever centered and the cutting edge just poking through the sole. I’ll move the frog until I have the iron where I want it in relation to the front of the mouth. Sorry but I didn’t have enough hands to do that and take a picture at the same time. I think it’s pretty self explanatory though.

I’ll note here that this adjustment is fairly easy on most bench planes because there is a screw behind the frog to adjust it’s position. Removing that screw is one of the cost-saving measures Miller’s Falls took with this plane though. So I have to adjust the frog position by hand and eye. Then I finish tightening down the screws.

Next I install the dept adjustment knob. Just make sure it engages the adjustment fork.

Next, let’s put our iron/chipbreaker and lever cap on. First install the lever cap screw then back the dept adjuster all the way up. We don’t want the cutting edge even close to sticking out the mouth. Now put the iron/chipbreaker on (which we fit and set properly in the last entry) and put the lever cap in position. Adjust the lever cap screw so that the cap locks down tight but not so tight that the iron doesn’t move when you adjust the depth or the lateral position.

Now we install the knob and tote. Sometimes there is a pin pressed into the base for the front of the tote. Sometimes there is a screw there. In this case, there is a loose roll pin. This is the only plane I’ve ever seen with this. However your plane is made, you want to be sure that your tote and knob are TIGHT. A wiggly tote or a spinning knob can be infuriatingly aggravating in use! Trust me.

There are different types of screws to secure tote and knob on different planes. Some are just screws like this one. There are also rods with threads on both ends and a threaded brass nut that secures the piece. If you have a loose knob or tote, you can try some small washers in the counterbore under the screw head or brass nut. In worst-cases, you may have to grind a thread or so off the end that goes into the base. Be careful if you do this. You can’t put material back! You should never modify the hardware of any plane that you think has some collector value either.

There she is. All put back together. Now take a second and have a good look at how all your hard work has paid off.

Remember what we started with?

And see what we have now?

And just wait until we get those sides polished up! ;-))

We’ll get that done and get the sole flattened in the next entry in a couple of days. Thanks for checking in!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

4 comments so far

View Notw's profile


740 posts in 2357 days

#1 posted 12-05-2016 06:52 PM

very nice process and well documented. thank you

View JimYoung's profile


338 posts in 2191 days

#2 posted 12-06-2016 02:40 AM

A lot of great information.

Thanks again for sharing.

-- -Jim, "Nothing says poor craftsmanship more than wrinkles in your duck tape"

View HokieKen's profile


11986 posts in 1742 days

#3 posted 12-06-2016 04:48 AM

Thanks for reading and for the comments guys!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Roger's profile


21030 posts in 3408 days

#4 posted 12-18-2016 09:47 PM

Kenny…..................You’re a gr8 educator sir. This plane is a beauty.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

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