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Another Hand Plane Rehab #2: Sandpaper is Good for the Sole

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Blog entry by HokieKen posted 06-01-2021 04:00 PM 1078 reads 0 times favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: A Twisted Sole and a Crooked Frog Part 2 of Another Hand Plane Rehab series Part 3: Look - I Used a New Body Paint »

Last time I had straightened my frog fit out and had a fit with the body that I was happy with. Normally my process is to paint the main body next but I was already mixing up my method so I figured what the hell, might as well go ahead and finish the flattening first on this one.

I had already sandblasted the plane before I decided to go back to work on it so don’t think I switched planes and didn’t tell ya ;-)

I went ahead and cross-hatched the sole again with a Sharpie and put some 80 grit on my granite plate.

I made two full strokes with just the body of the plane to see if disassembly made any significant difference. It didn’t.

It’s still obvious that the right toe and left heel are gonna make me sweat… So to finish flattening, I fully reassembled the plane with the iron fully retracted but tensioned. I gave my reasoning for lapping an assembled plane in part 10 of my old blog series and I haven’t changed my mind about it being the best way to do it. I have however come around to the idea of flattening before painting so that I don’t risk damage to my new paint.

Back to one of my least favorite chores… About 10 strokes on the 80 grit shows I’m pretty much where I was before. So, as suspected, fixing the fit of the frog didn’t have any effect on the flatness. The body was just twisted for some reason.

A few sheets of paper and a couple hundred strokes and FINALLY I see the light at the end of the tunnel. The sharpie is beginning to fade in the offending sections.

Instead of continuing to remove material, I decide that it’ll be flattened more as I work up a few more grits. Just to make myself feel better, I decided to quantify how much lower the lowest points are. Luckily that’s simple to do with a depth micrometer.

At the heel, the lowest spot is about .0025” low.

And at the toe, the extreme spot is about .004” low.

In practice, I have no concerns about using this plane exactly like it is. I can’t see function being inhibited in the least. For some perspective, I grabbed a couple of things I had handy to show how thick they are. A gum wrapper is about .002”.

And a freshly plucked arm hair is about .0017”

So functionally, I’m happy there. I went ahead and repeated the process on 120, 220 and 320 grit paper. After 320, I decided not to go any further. That’s plenty slick enough for the sole. I also sanded the cheeks at the same time and was happy with the look of 320. There were some spots on the cheeks that I would have like to see disappear but they were deeper than I wanted to sand out.

Since there are scratches and dings on the cheeks that don’t look particularly nice, I use a staple of every machinist’s aresenal – Scotchbrite ;-P With a little WD 40 for lube, it will take the uniform sanding marks and whirl them around so they look more random and unintentional. And it won’t really abrade the surface to any noticable level. It just changes how light is reflected and helps to obscure minor flaws in a flat surface to some degree.

Removing as much metal as I did from the sole left some exposed dings around the mouth too. Nothing that will cause functional issues but there are some sharp spots so I knock them down with a deburring tool.

I don’t remove any significant amount of metal, just dub the edges that are there.

The final thing I did to the body was to scrape some paint splatter that remained in the corrugations on the sole. I forgot to take pics but I just used a pick to scrape all the paint out then folded up a small piece of 320 sandpaper and ran it up and down the corrugations a couple of times to remove the marks left from scraping with the pick.

After all that was done, I sanded some rough cast spots on top of the body just so it will look a little nicer when painted. Then I cleaned the whole thing with Brake Cleaner.

And masked it up for painting.

I don’t use brand name blades to cut against the cast iron. They aren’t going to last anyway so I use cheapies.

On this go ‘round, I picked up a tidbit from Sansoo22 about not masking the top edges of the cheeks and the heel and toe. I’ve never been completely happy with the crispness of the edges in those spots so I’m going to try his method of scraping the paint off after the fact on this one.

Speaking of tidbits… I know some people keep spare screws to mask the threaded holes before painting. I just roll up liitle pieces of masking tape and stick them in there. Super putty is great for masking threaded holes too but I couldn’t find it when I was masking this one :-/

So that’s where I’m at for now. I’m hoping to get this thing painted this week some time. I’ll be trying a different brand of paint than I normally use but unless there’s some significant difference there, I probably won’t blog that process. So we’ll see what I come up with to write about next time… I know I have a tote repair to do so I’ll definitely do a post on that. Otherwise, I don’t foresee much that deviates from the basic process I wrote up in the old series.

Thanks for reading!

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA



15 comments so far

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

11294 posts in 3541 days


#1 posted 06-01-2021 04:08 PM

Wow, looks great at this point

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN - http://www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods - http://www.TheModsquito.com

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

3736 posts in 4432 days


#2 posted 06-01-2021 04:40 PM

Serious effort stripping and repainting that plane, well done.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View EarlS's profile

EarlS

4762 posts in 3596 days


#3 posted 06-01-2021 04:52 PM

I see you have a flat rate box waiting for the plane when you finish it. It might be a bit short though.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View sansoo22's profile (online now)

sansoo22

1748 posts in 903 days


#4 posted 06-01-2021 05:07 PM

Looking good Ken.

I get crisp edges on the top of the cheeks if I use a fresh utility razor and scrape off the paint before its fully cured. The DupliColor enamels will come off in big strips. After the razor I start with 80 grit paper and work up to desired sheen. The 80 might sound a bit coarse but you don’t want to use force on that edge or you risk it mashing over and catching your paint line. This is one of those scenarios where you really do want the paper to do all the work for you. Use a corner of the paper and if it clogs up switch to another one. I keep cutting strips off to make fresh corners on my paper as I need to.

Can’t wait to see the final product.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#5 posted 06-01-2021 05:37 PM

Thanks for the comments fellas!

Sansoo – another issue with scraping the edges just came to mind. I primed this plane which I typically do about half the time (mostly depending on whether or not I have primer on hand at the time) so I’m going to basically have partially cured on top of fully cured primer. Wondering if I should go ahead and scrape the primer from those edges now before I spray the enamel? I’m concerned that the extra adhesion will make it difficult to get crisp lines. Any thoughts or experience?

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View sansoo22's profile (online now)

sansoo22

1748 posts in 903 days


#6 posted 06-01-2021 05:52 PM



Thanks for the comments fellas!

Sansoo – another issue with scraping the edges just came to mind. I primed this plane which I typically do about half the time (mostly depending on whether or not I have primer on hand at the time) so I m going to basically have partially cured on top of fully cured primer. Wondering if I should go ahead and scrape the primer from those edges now before I spray the enamel? I m concerned that the extra adhesion will make it difficult to get crisp lines. Any thoughts or experience?

- HokieKen

Well now you say something. I just primed and painted 3 planes over the weekend. I rarely use primer cuz engine paint sticks to cast iron so well but after getting the blast cabinet I thought hey why not try to be a professional and use primer this time.

I’m leaning towards scrap the primer now just to play it safe. I’m kind of wishing I had done the same thing right about now.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#7 posted 06-01-2021 06:14 PM

Well, if you get to scraping before I get to painting, let me know :-) Otherwise, I think I will scrape the primer off before I spray the enamel. I think going forward I’ll probably just go back to masking the edges but instead of just peeling the masking off afterwards, I’ll remove it with a razor blade. Maybe that will preserve the crisp edges.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View sansoo22's profile (online now)

sansoo22

1748 posts in 903 days


#8 posted 06-01-2021 06:33 PM

I just put the final coat of black on last night and typically I would wait 24 hrs before handling them. But I didn’t want you to follow my crazy ideas and cock up a plane so I tested the 5-1/4 which will be a keeper.

I think you will be fine if you scrape after you paint. I’m 100% confident these edges are going to come out nice and crispy.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#9 posted 06-01-2021 06:54 PM

Awesome! So the primer didn’t make any noticable difference? I’ll just proceed as planned and leave the primer in place and plan to scrape about 24 hours after spraying the enamel :-)

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View sansoo22's profile (online now)

sansoo22

1748 posts in 903 days


#10 posted 06-01-2021 07:07 PM

The primer might take a tad more to sand out is all I’m seeing. I really don’t want to try that until the enamel has had a chance to cure a bit more though. Something tells me if I try now the dust is going to magically bind itself to the uncured enamel.

View sansoo22's profile (online now)

sansoo22

1748 posts in 903 days


#11 posted 06-02-2021 06:28 AM

I went ahead and finished the 5-1/4 up tonight just to make sure I didn’t lead you down a bad path. The edges came out pretty darn crisp…or at least crisp enough for my tastes.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

8282 posts in 3453 days


#12 posted 06-02-2021 10:52 AM

Oh to have a workshop and to be do such fine work like you!
Love the WD40 can where didya get that?

-- Regards Rob

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#13 posted 06-02-2021 01:02 PM



I went ahead and finished the 5-1/4 up tonight just to make sure I didn t lead you down a bad path. The edges came out pretty darn crisp…or at least crisp enough for my tastes.

- sansoo22

Looks good to me! I think the problem that I usually have with getting “crisp” lines there is probably mostly due to the fact that it’s cast so there isn’t a “crisp” corner there to begin with. So between the masking not being trimmed to a hard corner and the micro-chips that come out of the enamel when I remove the masking, it looks fine unless you really scrutinize it. I probably need to just not scrutinize it.

Alternatively, I’m wondering how it might look to leave those edges enameled? I know what you’re thinking: Blasphemy! But, not so with Millers Falls ;-) I’ve never read anything on the subject but I have seen many examples of them where the top edges were enameled. I’ve never been able to determine any rhyme or reason to which planes were painted which way though. And I like the look of the unpainted edges so I’ve always done it that way. It’s something to ponder though.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#14 posted 06-02-2021 01:03 PM



Oh to have a workshop and to be do such fine work like you!
Love the WD40 can where didya get that?

- robscastle

A good question Rob. And I can’t remember. But I just went looking online to see where I can buy another with no luck. I guess I’ll hang onto that can when it’s gone and refill it!

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19425 posts in 2387 days


#15 posted 06-05-2021 05:43 PM

Well I got it painted Wednesday evening but didn’t get a chance to scrape the edges until this morning. All went well though :-) It still peeled off in strips and I do believe the corners are crisper than with masking. It did take a good deal of scraping to get the bulk of the primer off but the enamel came off cleanly. I’ll still have to hit them with some abrasive to polish up the scratches and get rid of the rest of the primer but I imagine I’ll go this route from now on. I’ll do a quick post on it sometime next week. But I tried a new paint and a new method and nothing bit me in the butt :-)

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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