THE FENCE IS HERE!
NOTE: Please read parts 1 and 2 to know how I got where I’m at today. Thandks for looking, any comments or suggestions are welcome, Hersh
Now the fun begins. I unpacked eveything and counted all the nut and bolts, etc. Then read the instructions and reviewed some of LJ’s blogs and started in. The first thing I had to determine was how the holes on the saw line up with the holes on the fence. I soon realized that none of the holes were going to work. Also noticed that the bolt heads on both wings were ‘proud’ of the flat front of the table. Since I want to add a router table on the right side, I removed the right wing. I will drill a couple of holes for bolts on the Left wing to strengthen it.
I have resigned to the fact that I will have to drill holes in the front and rear rails. I studied SimonSKL’s Project “A Delta T2 fence for my Craftsman tablesaw”, and realized why he used the masking taple on the table top. I put the masking tape on the top as well. And placed the fence on the table tight against the saw blade. With my big T square I drew a ling on the tape that was dead on to the “0” on the fence Scale. Adding tape to the rails and transfering the line to the rails, showed me where the holes for the rails needed to be drilled. Since the holes on the tube are pre-drilled and tapped. the proces is repeatable. I drilled and coutersunk the front rail. Then mounted the front rail and tube. Set the fence on the tube and added a couple of the bolts. Then mounted the rear rail and it is good to go. Wow, this a slick unit
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CHECKING THE ACCURACY OF THE FENCE INSTALL.
As You can see the metal ‘Centering’ rule is set at “0” and the Fence is at 15” and the scale is showing 15”. This is very accutate.
I made a couple of minor adjustment for dead on parrall and that was it. All in all a very easy project.
I have added the new link belt, made some sawdust and I’m a very happy camper.
Thanks for Looking, Hersh
-- Hersh from Port Angeles, WA - Gotta Complete That Project!
12 comments so far
NormG
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6576 posts in 4466 days
#1 posted 03-13-2011 12:07 AM
Great job
-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.
Splinterman
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23074 posts in 4823 days
#2 posted 03-13-2011 01:01 AM
Looking good.
rmoore
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329 posts in 4097 days
#3 posted 03-18-2011 04:01 AM
Just found this blog. I also have a Craftsman TS. Looks just like yours from what I can tell. I also install the same fence you did. Best $150 I spent. The 2 plastic set screws for adjusting the fence at 90 degrees to the table… have you had any trouble with them moving on you? Mine both turned all the way in and the frame scratched the ruler. Not sure how to stop them from moving. I got my saw used for $25, plus a dado set and molder head for $25 each.
-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn
Hersh
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106 posts in 5177 days
#4 posted 03-18-2011 06:22 PM
rmoore,
Hey, thanks for looking. So far I haven’t had that problem. I have waxed the tube, rear rail and all bearing surfaces on the fence. I think this will reduce friction on the nylon glides that help hold the fence in place. I will keep an eye on this potentiel problem. I agree with you, that this was money well spent. I feel like I now have a ‘real’ TS. You also got a great deal on your saw.
Hersh
-- Hersh from Port Angeles, WA - Gotta Complete That Project!
kiefer
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5852 posts in 4129 days
#5 posted 04-08-2011 05:20 AM
i have the same old saw but did some changes to the fence that came with the saw to prove that it is not as bad as told on the net
take a look and you may see some other items that make my saw work much better then the original
let me have some feedback
kiefer
-- Kiefer https://www.youtube.com/user/woodkiefer1/videos
rmoore
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329 posts in 4097 days
#6 posted 04-10-2011 04:21 AM
kiefer
I love what you did with your saw! If I had that nice of a fence to start with I may have tried that… if I could have imagined it. LOL Unfortunately, my fence was broken when I got it and I had to buy a new piece for it. I never could get it square. It was the piece that rides the front rail.
As you can see, the original fence was narrow and the rails were short. Only 24 inches to the right of the blade. The rails were simple angle iron, too.
-- The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know. Ron, Crossville Tn
bigike
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4059 posts in 4751 days
#7 posted 04-10-2011 05:02 AM
great job saws coming together, now you just need a support table on the righthand side of the saw.
-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://[email protected]
Hersh
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106 posts in 5177 days
#8 posted 04-11-2011 05:15 PM
Everyone,
Thanks for looking at my little blog.
bigike, I’m looking at ideas for the right hand wing. It’s going to be a router table with vaccuum attatchment, drawers, and other storage.
I have just added castors to the TS. There will be a new chapter to this blog later today with pictures of how I added the castors. Also, pictures of the crosscut sled I just finished as well.
-- Hersh from Port Angeles, WA - Gotta Complete That Project!
Bertha
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13635 posts in 4155 days
#9 posted 04-11-2011 05:20 PM
That’s a serious fence upgrade. I’m considering replacing the one on my old JET contractor. I see you changed over to linkbelts. Have you been pleased with their performance?
-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog
Hersh
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106 posts in 5177 days
#10 posted 04-11-2011 05:36 PM
Bertha,
Do I like linkbelts? Yes, I do! It’s such a pleasure to turn this saw on and listen to it come up to speed. Before the linkbelt, I’m sure that everyone in the neighborhood could here this saw run. It is very quite now and seems to have more power. Thanks for looking.
-- Hersh from Port Angeles, WA - Gotta Complete That Project!
Bertha
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13635 posts in 4155 days
#11 posted 04-11-2011 05:38 PM
In that case, I will be ordering them today!
-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog
Hersh
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106 posts in 5177 days
#12 posted 04-11-2011 05:54 PM
Bertha,
I’m sure you won’t be sorry. You have probably already done this, but make sure your pulleys on the motor and the blade shaft are coplaner. I use a long straight edge to alingn the pulleys. It will make everything work better.
-- Hersh from Port Angeles, WA - Gotta Complete That Project!
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