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Walnut Nightstand

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Blog series by HappyHowie updated 06-05-2016 02:47 PM 9 parts 12547 reads 26 comments total

Part 1: Design and Milling the Wood

02-06-2015 09:37 PM by HappyHowie | 25 comments »

My daughter Jenny found a nightstand she liked on the web. She asked me if I could build one like it for her. Of course, I said yes. Then I began looking closer at its design. The challenge was with two design elements: (1) the lock miter joints for the case, and (2) the 45 degree angle for the legs. To address the first issue I would need to purchase a lock miter router bit and practice. I may need to build a tall router fence and jig to hold the vertical piece firmly against the fence....

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Part 2: Flared Out Legs

05-24-2016 05:09 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I am designing the legs for Jenny’s walnut nightstand. The legs need to flare out at the bottom, like an inch or more. The legs need to stay within the boundaries of the case they will be attached to above. I use my knowledge of trigonometry to calculate what angle the 17 1/2 inch long legs should flare out. I know that I will be tapering these legs similar to Shaker furniture. However, I will only taper the inner edge of these legs. The taper will begin at or just under the skirt an...

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Part 3: Wedges and Corner Blocks for the Flared Legs

05-25-2016 03:16 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

It is now 8:50 pm. I just came in from gluing the wedge piece to the corner block material. From that board I will cut the corner blocks to match exactly the lengths to the skirts from behind the legs. They will be fastened to the skirt, I think, with pocket screws. The skirts will be fastened to the underside of the bottom case panel with pocket screws. The skirts butt up to the legs with beveled ends at 45 degrees. I forget how I fastened the legs to the bottom board. I will look at tw...

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Part 4: Cut the Skirts to Final Length

05-26-2016 12:07 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

So far today I had to recheck the final dimensions for the drawer. Good thing, my original calculations were off some. These dimensions have to be spot on for these Salice 15 inch undermount slides to work and fit right. I changed the height of the drawer parts to 5 1/2 inches. The sides have to match the drawer slide length so that is 15 inches. The front and back parts were correct at 16 1/8 inches wide. I have designed the layout of the dovetails. I will cut those tomorrow. I have cu...

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Part 5: Pocket Holes Drilled in Legs and Skirts

05-29-2016 01:12 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

I determined the Kreg settings for drilling pocket holes for the legs and the skirts for this nightstand. The thickness of the case bottom is approximately 5/8 inches. I am going to use 1 inch long pocket screws. I also tested the hangerbolts that will be used with the corner braces or brackets. I will have to determine the length to cut the corner brackets after I have fastened the legs and skirts. I have designed the legs and skirts so the pocket holes will be covered: the holes in...

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Part 6: Salice Undermount Slides Installed and Nightstand Case Glued and Clamped Together

06-01-2016 05:32 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I have the case of this walnut nightstand glued and clamped together. The Salice undermount drawer slides was installed prior to gluing this case together. Tomorrow I will route a small rabbet in the backside of this case so I can fit the ship-lapped 1/4 inch thick backboards into it. After that I will fasten the legs and skirts to the bottom of the case with pocket screws. The pocket holes have already been drilled. Once the skirts are fastened then I can measure the final length...

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Part 7: Remade the Nightstands Drawer Box

06-02-2016 05:30 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I discovered that my previously made drawer was not wide enough to fit on the Salice undermount drawer slides. This meant I needed to make a new drawer box. Where I went wrong was to read directions for the drawer slides that was more about fitting the slides within the case instead of giving directions from a woodworker perspective: specifically what width the drawer must be. I had plenty of poplar hardwood to mill up another board. I used my hand saw to cut enough to make the front an...

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Part 8: Legs, skirts and corner blocks installed.

06-03-2016 01:39 PM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I am attaching the legs as shown in the photo. After all four legs are on then I will attach the skirts connecting the legs. Pocket screws again will be used. The position of the skirts will cover the pocket holes on the sides of the legs. Then I will be able to measure the final lengths of the corner brackets. I have yet to determine where I will drill pocket holes to fasten the corner brackets. The corner brackets will cover the pocket holes drilled in the skirts. I doubt I wi...

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Part 9: Ready for Wax?

06-05-2016 02:47 PM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

The last steps in this nightstand’s build was to fasten the back panel and the false drawer front. After those steps, I applied another thin coat of Danish Oil. I was planning to apply a ship-lapped back to this nightstand, but then I studied the board I had resawn. I had to find a way to use this beautiful grain in this piece. I decided to join the two resawn boards together and then select the area to cut out and fit into the rabbets I routed in the back of this case. I took ...

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