Roll Around Tool Cabinet

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Blog series by HappyHowie updated 04-12-2017 03:29 AM 30 parts 52701 reads 71 comments total

Part 1: Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts

01-19-2017 06:36 AM by HappyHowie | 2 comments »

My woodshop is in my 3-car garage. Being a garage woodshop I believe as many others do that virtually everything should be mobile. All of my major power equipment are on mobile bases: table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw, floor drill press as well as my workbench and assembly tables. I have a few items related to my auto mechanic toolsets, toolboxes, etc that I used to just keep on the garage floor. Recently I have stacked them on a 2 by 4 plywood sheet that I have on a roll around dolly...

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Part 2: Milling Hardwood: Ripping to Widths and Cross-Cutting to Lengths

01-24-2017 07:44 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

In my previous blog on this project I had fastened the case for this tool cabinet. I had not mentioned how I was able to cut these full 4 by 8 sheets at my table saw. I had made my assembly table prior to purchasing my Saw Stop table saw. I knew from its published dimensioned that the Saw Stop was 34 inches tall. That was the height I made my assembly table. I did that so I could use it as either an infeed or an outfeed table. I also modified my 36 inch tall workbench by removing its 5 i...

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Part 3: Milling and Cutting My Poplar Hardwood Lumber

01-24-2017 03:29 PM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

Snow storms here prompted me to purchase much of my poplar lumber at my local big box stores instead of traveling downtown to purchase rough sawn lumber which would have been my preference. I knew by purchasing 3/4 inch thick sanded lumber would give me issues. I became very selective in finding the straightest boards I could find. I was hoping that I would only lose maybe 1/8 inches of thickness instead of typical 1/4 inch with rough sawn lumber. I set my jointer to slice very thin amoun...

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Part 4: Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame

01-24-2017 04:25 PM by HappyHowie | 6 comments »

One other change I am implementing on this tool cabinet build that is different from the Woodsmith plan is how I was fastening the face frame. In the Woodsmith plan they used pocket screws to fasten the face frame together. If I wanted to do it the easy way, I would use my pocket screw jig and supplies to fasten this face frame. In the end I may have wished I done it that way. Instead I want to use loose tenons for this work. I am doing this because I haven’t done loose tenons until...

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Part 5: My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25

01-25-2017 04:27 AM by HappyHowie | 3 comments »

What is the plan tomorrow? Well, here is my list which I will report on after the day’s work is done. 1) Sand the face frame then glue, pin and clamp it to the carcase.2) Make hardwood plugs to fill the countersunk screw holes, glue them in place.3) With a scrap piece of poplar test the saw blade height of 3/8 inches for cutting the center grooves on the poplar frame pieces. And, then cut those center grooves. First, centered on all parts and then with the rip fence adjusted, wid...

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Part 6: Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes

01-26-2017 04:21 AM by HappyHowie | 3 comments »

Time passed quickly today. I was only able to fasten the face frame to the cabinet case and plug the countersink screw holes today. However, it was a good day. I will use my hand plane to shave some of the excess width of the face frame tomorrow. There is a small fraction that needs to be trimmed. Also I started to pare flush the plugs. The remainder will be finished tomorrow.

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Part 7: Frame Parts: Grooves and Stub Tenons

01-28-2017 07:14 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

The last few days I have been milling and producing the frame parts for this frame and panel construction tool cabinet. The frame and panels are placed on the back of the case and the four doors on the front on the case; the two small doors on the top that cover adjustable shelves and the two large or long doors below. Inside these two long doors are seven drawers on the right side of the case and several adjustable shelves on the left side of the case. The drawers consist of a large o...

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Part 8: Cut 1/4" Panels and Dry Fit Frames and Panels

01-29-2017 05:14 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

I setup my small workbench as an in-feed for my table saw and my assembly table as its out-feed table so I could manage my 4 by 8 foot 1/4” Baltic Birch plywood sheet. First I ripped a strip 18 1/2” wide. With this strip I would trim the width further plus cross the seven drawer bottoms. With my circular saw I crosscut and end from the remaining sheet approximately 30 inches in length. The four 4 inch by 28 1/2 inch panels for the long drawer would be cut at the table saw....

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Part 9: Frame and Panel Back and Doors Glued and Clamped

02-04-2017 05:35 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

After sanding all frame and panel parts to 220 grit, I dry fitted the back and doors again. My glue up of the back frame and panel was going to be done on my large assembly table. I knew this glue up would take a lot of time and patience. I selected Titebond III glue for its longer setup time. I would use my long pipe clamps for the long length clamping needs. The pipe clamps would be used to close the frames onto the panels so they would be seated firmly together. Width-wise I would be...

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Part 10: Fastened Frame and Panel Back onto Case

02-05-2017 03:32 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

Again rehearsing dry clamping procedure helps to determine the best way to clamp this back to the case. What I learned was that I needed two long pipe clamps in order to make sure the frame and the case went together squarely. Plus I needed about a 1/8” thin shim piece on the bottom right side of the case just below the face frame so enough of the face frame would be proud of the case all along the right side of that case. Once the clamping solution was determined in the dry fit, ...

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Part 11: Made JIGs Today: Dovetail On Table Saw & Butt Hinge Mortising JIG

02-07-2017 05:43 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

This roll around tool cabinet is a project I took on so I could learn new techniques and processes. This will be my first frame and panel project build. Besides that I have also chosen to use some new techniques in this build. CUTTING DOVETAILS ON MY TABLE SAW BY USING L-SHAPED FENCE ON MITER GAUGE I have seen others on the Internet use their table saw to cut dovetails. I will use a Gregory Paolini process to cut my dovetails and pins using L-style fences fastened to my INCRA 1000HD m...

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Part 12: Sixteen Hinge Mortises Routed

02-11-2017 04:35 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

With the mortising jigs made, I clamped and routed the butt mortises on the doors. Once the mortises were routed on the doors, I positioned the doors in the case opening taking into account the gaps I needed when all of the doors were shut. I had shims placed between the face frame and the bottom of the doors to measure these gaps. A few doors I have to hand plane to make the gaps even and the same. Once that was completed I marked the corresponding location of the hinges on the face fra...

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Part 13: Dovetails Cut on Table Saw is Possible but Time Consuming

02-13-2017 05:13 AM by HappyHowie | 2 comments »

I have spent several hours attempting to cut dovetails on my table saw. I have been using spare milled lumber milled to the same dimensions of my 3 inch tall drawer parts. Cutting the side board dovetails was straight forward. The process was okay. I tilted my saw blade to 8 degrees based on my Wixey digital angle gauge. This angle will be used to cut the dovetails in the side boards. Eight degrees will also be used to angle the fence that will be used to cut the pins in the front and bac...

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Part 14: Cut Dovetails with My Leigh D4R JIG

02-17-2017 06:56 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

Seven drawers that I decided to cut through dovetails instead of using a drawer lock router bit. One drawers in this tool cabinet is 7 1/8 inch tall. The rest come in pairs with the following dept or heights: 5 inches, 4 inches and lastly 3 inches. They are all 17 3/4 inches long and 14 inches wide. The image below shows the set of two drawer boxes that are 3 inches tall. The rest of the drawer parts are stacked next to these boxes. I will be resawing the 8/4 rough sawn sapele plank th...

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Part 15: Began Hanging Doors and Marked Drawers for Routing Grooves

02-18-2017 05:30 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

Finally, I began hanging the doors on this cabinet. After hanging the first door, I decided to change the method or steps of this process. I determined it would be easier for me to fasten the butt hinge first to the case’s face frame. Since I have routed the mortises on the doors as well as on the face frame of the case, I was confident that these mortises for the hinges were aligned very close to their final position. I did discover that micro adjustments may have to be made when I ...

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Part 16: All Doors Finally Are Hung

02-19-2017 06:20 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

Before hanging the remaining three doors it was clear to me that I should mount the magnetic door catches first. After analyzing the location where I should mount them, I decided they should be mounted out-of-sight on the face frame; not into the doors themselves. I was going to drill a 11/32 inch diameter hole in the face frame above the doors about one inch from the center of the cabinet. The striker plate would be fastened below the magnetic catch on top of the doors. It also became clea...

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Part 17: After Today, What's Left? Glue and Some Screws...

02-21-2017 02:15 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

Let’s see, what did I get done today? The corbells… I had to draw the shape of the corbell. All of that was straight forward. With a photocopy of my scaled drawing, I glued it to 1/4 MDF. With my spokeshave I smoothed the curved surfaces. I had already cut four poplar blocks to the same dimensions. Since they were all the same size I used double-sided tape to hold the four parts together. Then I cut the corbell shape out on my bandsaw. Some more spokeshave sork and then t...

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Part 18: Final Stages on This Tool Cabinet

02-22-2017 05:31 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

Today I glued and clamped the poplar breadboard ends to the the top plywood plate as well as the 3/8 inch thick trim around the base plate to cover its plies. Tomorrow I will need to trim the sides of this breadboard top. I will do that at my Saw Stop or I may use my #6 WoodRiver bench plane. We’ll see what will work best; maybe both. After I completed the steps listed above I determined my next step would be to resaw the large Sapele plank. I calculated that about 1/4 inch th...

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Part 19: Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?

02-24-2017 02:32 AM by HappyHowie | 4 comments »

Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful. I liked this look so much that I decided not to follow the plan I am using by drilling semi-...

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Part 20: Detail Work: Drawer Fronts and Breadboard End Top Layout

03-02-2017 05:49 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

Today I worked with detail finish work. For instance, I sprayed three layers of Shellac clear to seal the dye that I had applied to the poplar drawer front backs. With each of these drawers I had taped prior to applying the dye. However, the tape did not keep the dye from finding its way to where I did not want it. I decided that I would use my #4 smoothing plane on the sapele to clean the surface by removing the wood that got some of the dye on it. This included using one or real...

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Part 21: More Fixing Details and Thinning my Dye Mix

03-03-2017 04:57 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

I spent more time inspecting my cabinet and its joinery. I used more putty to fill some of the gaps I found on the doors, etc. After the putty was dry I sanded those spots with my hand sanding blocks. The image below shows the inside surface of my drawer front. This is the original mix of TransTint dyes to make Charles Neil’s red cherry mahogany recipe. It goes on very thick so it nearly makes the wood grain disappear. That worried me some so I began thinking of thinning the recip...

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Part 22: Glued and Screwed Caster Base and Breadboard End Top

03-07-2017 01:58 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

I placed the case up on its head so I could pre-drill screw holes from inside the case so the screws would be hidden when I glued and screwed the top on to the case. I had marked the sides of the case to match the location of the caster base so the caster base would be centered on the case. I also used a rule to mark the locations where I would pre-drill screw locations in order to fasten the caster base onto the cabinet case. I was using #8 – 1 1/4” square head screws t...

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Part 23: Wiping on My Dye Mix

03-09-2017 06:37 AM by HappyHowie | 4 comments »

I had used Charles Neil’s recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany but after wiping this dye on the drawer fronts poplar parts, I decided to change the formula a bit. I wanted a lighter and more brown recipe. After consulting Charles Neil he suggested that I add green TransTint to the recipe. Green and red, he said makes brown. What I did was to test the recipe on some scrap pieces of timber. I settled for adding 1/2 part of green plus 1 part of additional distilled water to the existing 17 ...

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Part 24: Sprayed Shellac to Seal Dye. What Finish Coat to Use???

03-10-2017 04:43 AM by HappyHowie | 8 comments »

I sprayed two coats of Zinsser’s clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night. Now I need to make a choice for the top coat finish. I have several cans of lacquer and polyurethane in my shop. Which should I use. This cabinet is a shop tool cabinet so durability is probably my biggest concern. I will study a couple of my finish books tonight. QUESTIONWhat finish coat should I spray tomorrow? Lacquer? Or Polyurethane? I al...

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Part 25: Sprayed on First Finish Coat

03-11-2017 04:46 AM by HappyHowie | 2 comments »

I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser’s Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet. So for all other surfaces on this cabinet I sprayed Deft lacquer. Those surfaces were the panel top, both sides of the cabinet plus the cabin...

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Part 26: Finish Coats Completed

03-12-2017 10:44 PM by HappyHowie | 3 comments »

Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel. Tomorrow I will begin mounting the seven drawers in this cabinet. I will start with the top drawer by using two plywood panels to set its height and to hold the drawer and slide in place while I screw on the metal slide...

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Part 27: Spacers to be Used to Mount Drawer Slides

03-15-2017 05:47 AM by HappyHowie | 1 comment »

PANEL SPACERS FOR MOUNTING DRAWER SLIDES In this blog post I am going to reveal how this engineer thinks, or solves some of these woodworking problems; especially if it involves a bit of mathematics. In this case it is simple addition, subtraction, etc. Many or maybe all of you may want to stop reading right here. That is fine. I am writing this mainly for myself so I have a record how I solved fitting these seven drawers into this cabinet’s bay. Once a problem is solved then the issu...

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Part 28: Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?

03-18-2017 08:18 PM by HappyHowie | 21 comments »

I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge woul...

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Part 29: Drawers: Planed, Pared and Hung

04-07-2017 05:32 AM by HappyHowie | 0 comments »

HAND PLANES AND PARING CHISEL USED TO GET PROUD JOINTS FLUSH TO DRAWER PART SURFACES For those that have followed my blog entries for this project, my last entry was a few weeks ago. Back then I had witnessed that my drawers seemed to be too wide, but after further measurements and inspection my drawers were just very tight. I needed to pare or make flush the proud dovetail joints on the corners of these drawer boxes. I have not worked in my shop for three weeks because I have bee...

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Part 30: Project Completed: Lessons Learned

04-12-2017 03:29 AM by HappyHowie | 6 comments »

Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned A few months ago I noticed how many storage and toolboxes I had sitting flat on my garage floor. I decided to make them more mobile in the simplest manner possible. I took one of my dolly carts bought from Harbor Freight Tools, placed a 2 by 4 foot sheet of plywood on it, then began stacking the Rubbermaid storage boxes, etc on top of it. This made the items mobile but the tools and items in them were not easily accessible. This problem ...

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