Walnut Nightstand #7: Remade the Nightstands Drawer Box

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 06-02-2016 05:30 AM 1421 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Salice Undermount Slides Installed and Nightstand Case Glued and Clamped Together Part 7 of Walnut Nightstand series Part 8: Legs, skirts and corner blocks installed. »

I discovered that my previously made drawer was not wide enough to fit on the Salice undermount drawer slides. This meant I needed to make a new drawer box. Where I went wrong was to read directions for the drawer slides that was more about fitting the slides within the case instead of giving directions from a woodworker perspective: specifically what width the drawer must be.

I had plenty of poplar hardwood to mill up another board. I used my hand saw to cut enough to make the front and back drawer parts. I already had lumber milled in my lumber rack that would become the two drawer sides.

I took the new cutoff lumber over my jointer to get a flat surface and then get an edge square to the flat surface. My planer was already set to the thickness of the drawer parts. I passed the board through the planer. Then at my table saw I squared both ends, cross-cut the board to final lengths. Then I removed the cross-cut sled and used my saw rip fence to cut the boards to final width of 5 1/2 inches.

With my marker gauge I maked the tail boards on both ends and all four sides. Pins boards only need to be marked on both end and the large flat surfaces; not the edges.

From my journal notes I setup my Leigh D4R jig for pass through dovetails. I cut the tail boards first. I had a scrap board handy so I cut and tested a pin bard. It was a bit tight but good enough so I went ahead and cut both pin boards.

From here I setup my router table so I could cut the grooves for the 1/4 inch thick drawer bottom. I stopped routed the pin boards that are my front and back drawer parts.

Then on my table saw I marked and then cut the notches out on the back board for the Salice drawer slides to fit over. This amounted to 1 3/8” wide from the inside edge of the drawer side, flush to the bottom edge of the plywood drawer bottom. I followed the slide instructions for the location of the 1/4 inch hole drilled through the drawer back board at both edges.

This time instead of cutting my finger pull at the bandsaw, I setup my table saw for cutting the finger pulls. I actually used trigonometry to calculate the angle I needed to set the saw blade. That turned out to be 9.5 degrees.

I then glued and clamped the drawer box with its dovetails. Afterwards I pre drilled the screw holes for the drawer plastic hardware. I ended up suing #8 3/4 inch long screws. This box is ready for the walnut false front to be cut to final dimensions and fastened to the poplar.

I also placed a rabbet routing bit in my router table. I set the rabbet to cut 3/16” wide and 1/4” deep. I did this 1/4” depth in two stages: first 1/8” deep and then the final 1/4” depth. From here I used hand chisels to make the corners square instead of rounded.

Next: I will cut the walnut false drawer front to final dimensions and fit to this case.

-- --- Happy Howie

0 comments so far

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics