Roll Around Tool Cabinet #16: All Doors Finally Are Hung

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Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 02-19-2017 06:20 AM 1016 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 15: Began Hanging Doors and Marked Drawers for Routing Grooves Part 16 of Roll Around Tool Cabinet series Part 17: After Today, What's Left? Glue and Some Screws... »

Before hanging the remaining three doors it was clear to me that I should mount the magnetic door catches first. After analyzing the location where I should mount them, I decided they should be mounted out-of-sight on the face frame; not into the doors themselves. I was going to drill a 11/32 inch diameter hole in the face frame above the doors about one inch from the center of the cabinet. The striker plate would be fastened below the magnetic catch on top of the doors. It also became clear that with an indent of the striker plate that I should cut a mortise about 5/16 inches in diameter with my small plunge router. The thickness or depth of this mortise would be the thickness of the striker plate’s indent.

The image below shows the four magnetic catches glued into their positions. I used Gorilla glue. As may be noted I turned my cabinet upside down so I could manage drilling these holes easier. I used a drill bit guide with my handheld drill to make sure the hole I made would be perfectly vertical. I began drilling with a 5/16 inch diameter drill bit. I used blue tape to mark the depth I wanted to use as a stopl I finished drilling these holes with my 11/32 inch diameter drill bit.

I needed an extra pair of hands to hang these doors with the mortised, inset butt hinges. I did try using double-sided tape, but that didn’t work. I thought about using my hot glue gun, but it wasn’t in my shop. Maybe I should have searched my storage area in my basement , but asking for my Annie’s help was the easiest thing to do. She was great.

When it came to adding the last door, it became clear that I needed to trim the width of the door so it could fit into its space. I kind of penciled marked the edge that needed trimming and noted mentally how much should be trimmed with my bench plane I chose to use my #6 Woodriver plane in order to make sure I planed a flat and even surface. I also decided that I would angle the plane’s blade so more of the inside edge would be removed. By planing it this way I would be angling the edge to give clearance to close the door without rubbing the other door.

Tomorrow I will need to add more screws. I will also begin to work on the castered bottom and the breadboard ends top plate.

-- --- Happy Howie

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#1 posted 02-20-2017 04:17 AM


I continued working on the doors today. I installed the striker plates or buttons on the topside of the doors since I drilled and installed the magnets above the doors. As I stated in the previous entry I turned the cabinet upside down to make the drilled holes.

I chose to use my Bosch Colt 1 hp router within its plunge holder. I determined the plunge depth based on the thickness of the metal buttons thickness. Pinpointing the location of the hole you would think it would be obvious and easy, but there are always issues. At least these holes would b covered by the metal buttons.

What was disappointing is that the doors do not close easily. I need to find a source of help giving me instructions of how to adjust insert butt hinges so I can solve the door closing issues. This is so frustrating. Is it a situation where even if you perfectly mortise the butt hinge so its surface is perfectly flush to the face frame that holds it and then for some mystery the door will not close? It seems that way because I spent so much time cutting the mortises and getting the butt hinges to fit perfectly flush to the face frame.

Like anything that frustrates me; I will sleep on the issue. Maybe in a dream or a flash of revelation I will find instructions of how to adjust the hinges so the doors will close better.

One thing for sure I will be looking for stronger and large magnets to hold and catch the doors tightly. Heck, I may need a hook to hold these doors shut.

The image above was my first idea of how to add support for my router to plunge 5/16” diameter holes for the button plates to fit into. Since I added a fence to the plunge holder I decided to use the thick MDF only; this is the second block from the top. This way one setting for the plunge router’s fence was needed. All I had to do was move the MDF block support to the next door I was going to route.


Besides working on the magnetic catches, I also ripped the 3/8” poplar that I will use to cover the ply edges of the cabinet base. I will miter these ends.

The plan called for 4 inch casters. I have 5 inch swivel lock casters on hand. I will use those for this roll around tool cabinet.

The plan calls for 16 #14 – 1 inch panhead screws used with washers. I have nine of these 1 inch long screws. I may purchase the additional seven, but I do have sixteen #14 – 3/4 inch panhead screws. I may use those if I can determine if I can get enough threads into the base plate to hold the casters firmly.

I also studied how I might cut the grooves on the top plate where I will fit poplar breadboard ends. I already have the breadboard ends milled and cut along with their stub tenons. I could use a router bit to cut the 1/4 inch thick grooves, but I doubt I could get it perfectly centered on the plywood base. Micro-adjusting the router in my router table would be an ever ending process, I think.

An easier solution, I think, would be to cut the grooves on my table saw. With a tall fence and a rip blade on my table saw and adjusting the distance between the fence and the blade I can get a centered groove easily. I just need to get that distance set with a sample plywood piece first. This is what I will do.

-- --- Happy Howie

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