Roll Around Tool Cabinet #10: Fastened Frame and Panel Back onto Case

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Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 02-05-2017 03:32 AM 1157 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: Frame and Panel Back and Doors Glued and Clamped Part 10 of Roll Around Tool Cabinet series Part 11: Made JIGs Today: Dovetail On Table Saw & Butt Hinge Mortising JIG »

Again rehearsing dry clamping procedure helps to determine the best way to clamp this back to the case. What I learned was that I needed two long pipe clamps in order to make sure the frame and the case went together squarely. Plus I needed about a 1/8” thin shim piece on the bottom right side of the case just below the face frame so enough of the face frame would be proud of the case all along the right side of that case.

Once the clamping solution was determined in the dry fit, I unfastened the clamps, applied Titebond I glue, placed the frame and panel back onto the case, then applied the clamping solution.

I decided to shoot pin nails into the back frame panel so I could remove the clamps.

I also should report that I had done some study on what hinges I should use on this tool cabinet’s four doors. The Woodsmith plan used H & L barn door type hinges. From the search I made for purchasing these hinge types their cost could have been at least $16 each. The plan did not specify the size of the HL hinges but from the images it looked like they were about 3 inches in height. I would have to order these hinges sight unseen over the Internet. Instead I made a trip to my local Woodcraft store to survey what they might have that would work with this cabinet. My analysis came down to two alternatives: Euro inset hinges and a sized right butt hinge.

I have installed inset Euro hinges before on other projects. I knew that these hinges would require that I drill a hole 1/2 inches deep into the door’s frame. I decided against using Euro hinges. My door frames were made from 3/4” sanded lumber. After milling these boards the thickness of my door frames were probably 5/8 or 11/16 inches thick. I did not want to drill a hole that deep into these thin door frames.

I liked the mortised black butt hinges I found. Their costs was $12.00 each. I bought eight for the four doors.

This will be my first time installing butt hinges. I will be mortising in the hinges. I have watched a Fine Woodworking Magazine YouTube instruction for using a mortising jig.

I have also printed a few articles from their magazine. One of those articles is a Gregory Paolini article for cutting dovetails on the table saw.

I ordered a mortising straight bit with a 1/4 inch shaft. It will be delivered here Monday. I had also bought a similar straight pattern bit but with a 1/2 inch shaft. At this late stage of the project I will need to use my small Bosch Colt router since it has a smaller base that I will be able to mortise the hinge into the face frame that is already fastened to the plywood case. I could use the 1/2 inch shaft bit for mortising the hinges on the doors, but the 1/4” shaft will be needed for the face frame.

-- --- Happy Howie

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#1 posted 02-06-2017 04:20 AM

In order to cut my drawer dovetails on my table saw, I am going to follow a Gregory Paolini article in Fine Woodworking Magazine. This article appeared in the January/ February 2013 issue on pages 46-50. The above reference to a YouTube presentation also demonstrates this article’s procedure.

Today I made the two L-shape fences that I will need to cut the dovetails for the side boards and the other fence for cutting the pins on the front and back drawer parts.

Instead of mounting these fences to my Saw Stop miter gauge, I will mount these fences to my INCRA 1000HD miter gauge. I have determined I will mount these fences per the INCRA manual instructions for mounting a sub-fence to the INCRA miter gauge fence as shown on page 7 of the manual. My local hardware store was closed today so I was lucky that I found the socket head screws specified in the manual: socket head 1/4” – 3/4” long 20 tpi. I believe I have some 1/4 – 20 rectangular nuts in my shop from leftover INCRA supplies. I will countersink the drill holes in these L-fences tomorrow.

Also I have begun wondering if I really want to paint this tool chest. I have enjoyed the grain I have with the poplar hardwood I have used. The case is made from nice maple plywood. I have Charles Neil’s Color Recipe book. In it he has a recipe for coloring poplar hardwood so it looks like walnut. I am thinking I may dye this tool cabinet with TransTint dye for a walnut color. To do this Charles first dyes poplar to his medium walnut recipe and then follows that directly with his light walnut recipe. I am going to give this some thought. I know that shop projects should be used for testing different finishes. It might turn out well. We’ll see…

-- --- Happy Howie

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