Roll Around Tool Cabinet #2: Milling Hardwood: Ripping to Widths and Cross-Cutting to Lengths

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Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 01-24-2017 07:44 AM 1692 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts Part 2 of Roll Around Tool Cabinet series Part 3: Milling and Cutting My Poplar Hardwood Lumber »

In my previous blog on this project I had fastened the case for this tool cabinet. I had not mentioned how I was able to cut these full 4 by 8 sheets at my table saw. I had made my assembly table prior to purchasing my Saw Stop table saw. I knew from its published dimensioned that the Saw Stop was 34 inches tall. That was the height I made my assembly table. I did that so I could use it as either an infeed or an outfeed table. I also modified my 36 inch tall workbench by removing its 5 inch casters and then building leg supports that would give me a 34 inch tall workbench. To make it mobile I used Wood River workbench caster set. I first used these lever-type casters on my assembly table. I like them. These casters allow me to set my small workbench down on its four legs and allow my bench to be sturdy and still; it will hold its place while I plane parts on its benchtop. I can still move it about by lowering the casters by locking down the levers with my foot. I thought about providing a photo of these casters but the link I provided above to the product will give you an excellent view of they are used.

So with my workbench and my assembly table being the same height as my Saw Stop at 34 inches I can use either or both as infeed and outfeed tables to the saw as shown in the photo below. This is how I was able to cut full sheets; how I was able to handle that cumbersome task by myself.

I also used my Super Sawhorses with the support arm clamped to them to hold the ripped panels at the proper height so I could crosscut these plywood sheets to its specified lengths.

I had chosen to deviate from the Woodsmith plan in a couple of ways.

First, I was going to use full dadoes instead of tongue and groove or dado joinery to fasten the case together. In my experience cutting these tongues (especially) on the ends of a sheet is difficult and they can break off if not done precisely. I know, I have seen the Woodsmith trick of using masking tape on the rip fence to make the groove slightly wider. Gee, I would have to rewatch that trick every time I was going to cut tongue and grooves to get it right. I would rather have a rabbet on the ends. Also I cut my dadoes with a plunge router run up against a fence. Next time I will look at purchasing a jig to hold the router with or against the fence so it does not deviate from the fence. I still got good dadoes to use with this case.

The second deviation from the plan was that I was going to use screws along with glue and clamps to fastren thr case together. I was glad I had chose to use screws on this case. Gluing this larger case together with just glue and clamps was going to be a difficult tasks. That presented itself during my dry fit. Once you introduce glue every thing becomes a bit more difficult. The screws helped me to hold things together properly while I glued and clamped this case together. Of course, during the dry fit process I pre-drilled the screw holes and countersunk those holes.. I will fill these countersink holes with shop made plugs.

I will continue with my tool cabinet blog entries tomorrow morning…

-- --- Happy Howie

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