Home Built 13" Jointer

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Blog series by Ger21 updated 04-22-2016 12:40 AM 15 parts 35045 reads 42 comments total

Part 1: Design

12-12-2015 05:49 PM by Ger21 | 6 comments »

This project started two years ago, when I sold my 6” Jet jointer to pay some bills, with the intention of replacing it with an 8” Grizzly. Due to other projects, two years went by without setting foot in my shop, so I never got around to replacing the old Jet.Ever since I saw Matthias Wandel’s homemade jointer project, I would periodically think about building one. While it was very intriguing, it wasn’t exactly what I was looking for in a jointer.About 6 months ago, ...

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Part 2: Bearing Mounts

01-16-2016 05:01 AM by Ger21 | 2 comments »

It’s been a little while since the first entry. Hopefully, things will start moving a little faster. Maybe. Not a lot done, but I’ve finished one of the more difficult parts of the build. The bearing mounts that will hold the cutterhead. I started with 2 blocks of aluminum, 1”x3”x5”.I first drilled 2 holes in each, so that I could bolt them to my CNC router. The first thing I did was route the pockets for the bearings. I started a little under size, then sn...

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Part 3: Frame Rails with Cutterhed Mounts Installed

01-21-2016 03:00 AM by Ger21 | 3 comments »

I started working on the frame on Saturday.I’ve never used LVL’s before, and was expecting a more finished product than I received. But a few passes through the planer and they cleaned up pretty nicely. I used a straightedge and flush trim bit in the router to get one straight edge, then ripped to width on the table saw. I rough cut the tapered edges on the bandsaw, and cleaned them up with a straightedge and router.There are some notches in the rails for wrench clearance ...

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Part 4: Base Cabinet

02-01-2016 03:41 AM by Ger21 | 0 comments »

As with most of my projects, this is going to take much longer than I thought.I started the base by cutting the front and back panels on my CNC router. They’re not square, and they had odd shaped cutouts, so this was the best method. I even drilled holes to accept t-nuts to mount the blade guard. The side panels were cut on the table saw, and then I used the CNC for the cutout for the dust hose.I wanted a chamfer on the outside corners, which didn’t leave much room to screw...

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Part 5: Motor Mount

02-01-2016 04:13 AM by Ger21 | 1 comment »

With a 50lb motor, I needed a way to mount it securely, and also have a way to adjust the belt tension. I came up with the motor mounted to a block, that would key into another securely mounted block. Two carriage bolts hold the motor in place, and the keyed slot keeps the motor parallel to the ground. I started by gluing up two blocks of baltic birch, to get 1-1/2” thick. I did a lot of measuring to make sure the pulleys would line up, as my CAD model was off a little (5/16”...

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Part 6: Tested the motor

02-16-2016 01:24 AM by Ger21 | 1 comment »

I had to make an unexpected 2500 mile trip last week, so wasn’t able to do anything. Still feeling the jet lag, I wasn’t really up to doing anything this weekend, so all I did was wire up the motor, and permanently attach the motor mount. Here’s a few pics. I didn’t want to wire up the switch and have to pull everything back apart for paint, so I wired the cord to the motor, and just put a plug on the other end for testing. Luckily, I wired it right the f...

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Part 7: Tables - Part 1

02-22-2016 03:44 AM by Ger21 | 1 comment »

Got a little bit done this weekend. It’s getting late, so I’ll make it quick. Each table started as 3 layers of 1/2” (12mm) baltic birch, laminated with epoxy in my vacuum frame press. I laminate them face down so that the top face would be flattest.Once I pulled them from the press, I noticed that there were some thickness variations in the plywood that left the backside less than flat. So, I put them on the CNC and machined about 1/32” off the back side to ...

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Part 8: Tables - Part 2

02-28-2016 02:38 PM by Ger21 | 3 comments »

Got the top stainless steel attached. I ended up holding them in place with two screws each, carefully tightened to hold them tight without distorting them. (It’s really amazing how much force a screw can exert) Then clamped the the two tables together face to face. After clamping, I was a bit concerned that the epoxy would get trapped in the middle and leave me with “domed” tables. But they ended up pretty good. They are very stiff, with the steel on both sides...

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Part 9: Tables - Part 3, & First Cut!

03-06-2016 11:51 PM by Ger21 | 4 comments »

One the table surfaces were attached, the next step was of course, mounting the tables. The outfeed table is mounted with threaded studs. On the original plan, the studs were just threaded into the wood.To make this a bit stronger, I used a method I saw on the West System website for bonding fasteners into wood.I started with some 5/16” threaded rod, and cut it into the lengths I needed. I attached the crossmembers that the table would mount to to the bottom of the table with double ...

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Part 10: Parallelogram

03-28-2016 12:25 AM by Ger21 | 4 comments »

While it’s been a while since I last posted, I’m still working on this a couple days a week. Painting takes a lot of time.All the baltic birch plywood gets a coat of epoxy on the edges to seal them. This keeps the paint from soaking into the end grain, and lets you get away with 2 coats from the rattle can. I’ve been painting most of the small parts for the last few weeks. It’s really a week long process.Seal edges with epoxy, led cure for 2 days before painting.San...

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Part 11: Getting Ready for Assembly

04-10-2016 12:37 PM by Ger21 | 2 comments »

Been working away at painting for the last few weeks.Had another near catastrophe. When I started, I had 5-1/2 spray cans of Rustoleum Deep Blue Hammered paint. I’ve been using silver as a base/primer, as it’s readily available locally. After I finished the frame, I was down to 1-1/2 cans, and thought I should probably order another case. That’s when I discovered that this color is no longer available.. :-(I had thought about painting the base a different color, and did some...

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Part 12: Assembly - Part 1

04-12-2016 01:54 AM by Ger21 | 1 comment »

Started out Sunday morning with mounting and wiring the switch. I wasn’t sure if it would fit in the location that I had originally planned, but I managed to squeeze it in there. I ran into a little problem when installing the belt guard. The screws that go into the cabinet go into t-nuts. I didn’t want to use 4” long screws at the top, so I was just going to drill an undersize hole and thread the machine screws into the wood (This actually holds surprisingly well if ...

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Part 13: Table Lifting Screw

04-16-2016 01:42 AM by Ger21 | 1 comment »

Just spent 2 hours getting the lifting screw installed. I’m using some 1/2-8 acme, so I don’t have to turn it a million times to raise and lower the table. After cutting it to length, I needed to turn it down to fit into the bearings. Since I don’t have a metal lathe, I made a jig to do it by hand. I made this when building my CNC years ago, so didn’t have to waste time building the jig this time. The jig is a simple plywood box with a 1/2” bearing on ea...

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Part 14: Table Lifting Screw - Nut Assembly

04-18-2016 12:32 AM by Ger21 | 5 comments »

This morning I set out to build the nut assembly that raises and lowers the infeed table.I started with a piece of Delrin rod that I thought was 1.5” diameter.Holding it with a handscrew, I marked the center and drilled a 3/8” hole through it. I then took a cutoff piece from the screw to make a tap. I chucked it in my drill and while spinning, ground a taper on the disc sander. Then used an angle grinder to cut a rather sloppy flute in it. Then chucked the tap in the...

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Part 15: It's running...

04-22-2016 12:40 AM by Ger21 | 8 comments »

I finished painting the lifting nut assembly, and installed it. Here’s a view of the entire parallelogram assembly. And a view from under the infeed table. I was originally going to bring the cord out through the cabinet, but couldn’t come up with a good clean method that was easy. So I ran it up under the outfeed table, and needed a way to secure it.I picked up a cord grip and scrap piece of aluminum angle. I had to use the CNC to make the hole big enough, as...

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