Home Built 13" Jointer #9: Tables - Part 3, & First Cut!

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Blog entry by Ger21 posted 03-06-2016 11:51 PM 2084 reads 3 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: Tables - Part 2 Part 9 of Home Built 13" Jointer series Part 10: Parallelogram »

One the table surfaces were attached, the next step was of course, mounting the tables.

The outfeed table is mounted with threaded studs. On the original plan, the studs were just threaded into the wood.
To make this a bit stronger, I used a method I saw on the West System website for bonding fasteners into wood.
I started with some 5/16” threaded rod, and cut it into the lengths I needed. I attached the crossmembers that the table would mount to to the bottom of the table with double sided tape and spacers. I then drilled 1/4” holes into the bottom of the table, through the crossmembers so that everything would line up properly later.
I counterbored the holes in the table so that I could embed a nut into the table for extra strength.
I put the nut on the threaded rod, and added another nut and washer. The washer would be my stop when I installed the threaded rod. I added two jamb nuts at the other end so that I could drive them in with my impact driver.

I mixed up some thick epoxy, filled the holes, and drove the studs in.

After all 6 were in, I wiped up the excess epoxy that had squeezed out.

I don’t like to bolt any metal parts directly to wood, as the wood will always get crushed, which can cause several problems, from alignment, to nuts coming loose. So where the studs attach to the crossmembers, I reinforced the holes with aluminum tubing, so that the nuts are actually tightened against the tube, rather than the wood. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the 5/8” forstner bit I needed, so I had to use a spade bit with a guide, as I was drilling into an existing 1/4” hole. It didn’t turn out very well, but the epoxy filled the gaps.

Once cleaned up, I set the crossmembers in place on the frame, and then set the table on them, to mark their location.
I had to set the table height even with the cutterhead, and get it as close to the cutterhead as I could without it hitting the steel or the wooden portion of the table.

I marked the first one, and used the spacers I had used to drill them originally to locate the other two.

I drilled two holes, and used two screws to hold everything in place while I drilled the other holes. The crossmembers will be mounted with 1/4” x 3” machine screws, threaded into the wood. I use a 3/16” hole for a 1/4” screw.

I only installed half of the screws to temporarily mount the table for a quick test.

The Infeed Table.

When I was doing the CAD work, I didn’t put much thought into the parallelogram links. I took the basic dimensions from the original plans, and quickly sketched them up.

When it cam time to fabricate the assembly, I made some changes on the fly to extend it a little, for additional support.
On the original design, the top of the links extend into the bottom side of the table a small amount. Not wanting to cut notches in the bottom steel sheet, I made another minor change, adjusting the heights of the mounting rails, and moving the rods down a bit so the links would clear the table.

I wanted to wax the holes for the rods to slide through, so I decided to paint the links before assembly, so any wax wouldn’t cause issues with painting later.

The bottom parallelogram rails are just screwed to the frame rails with wood screws. I partially assembled it so that I could get it aligned before drilling for the screws.

On the original plans, the infeed table was attached from the bottom, which was rather difficult. I decided to use T-Nuts in the upper rail, so that I could bolt the infeed table on from the top. This will make it easy for me to shim the table if needed to make sure it’s parallel with the cutterhead, and to straighten it out if needed.

Since the table is 2” wider than the steel, I had an inch of room to counterbore for socket head screw. I drilled the counterbores first, and then followed with a 5/16” bit for the 1/4-20 screws, since the T-Nut requires a 5/16” hole as well.
I set the table in place, and used it as a guide to partially drill the T-Nut holes.
I drilled them through on the drill press, and flipped them to counterbore for the T-Nuts so they wouldn’t be visible.

I then set the table in place and put 4 screws in to hold it in place.

At this point, I realized that I had a serious problem. With my table at proper cutting height, the parallelogram links are rotated quite a bit. In this picture, the line on the frame is where a panel is supposed to go to direct chips into the dust chute.
So, it looks like I’ll be making new links. It figures, that the only parts that I painted will get thrown away.

As soon as I finish posting this, I’m going to take some measurements and draw up some new links. I’ll get them done later this week, as well as a few other parts for the parallelogram that I haven’t made yet. The new ones will be much more vertical when installed.

So, after all this, I quickly bolted down the table, and roughly adjusted the outfeed table even with the cutterhead.
I cut some spacers to hold the infeed table in place (gravity pulls it down and away from the cutterhead).
Then I set up the camera, plugged it in and ran a board over it.

And it looks like this thing is going to work pretty well !!!!!

While it’s mostly complete, there’s still a lot of work left to be done. I need to make the screw lift for the table, redo the parallelogram, make a belt guard, and a fence. I also want to add two wheel that will fold underneath so that I can lift one end and roll it around. This takes up a lot of space in my crowded garage.

Fortunately, the weather is starting to warm up this week, so I’ll be able to clean up all the scraps I’ve been piling in front of the door, and get ready to start painting. Hammered paint has a very strong smell, so I don’t like to paint with the garage doors closed.

It’ll probably be another 2-3 months before this is complete, as I’m now at a point where I can start working on other projects alongside this one.

-- Gerry,

4 comments so far

View SPalm's profile


5338 posts in 5332 days

#1 posted 03-07-2016 01:12 AM

That is looking really sweet.
Sorry about the links not fitting. Such is life.
I am surprised that you have a red table saw insert. I thought you had made custom ones :-)


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Ger21's profile


1100 posts in 4581 days

#2 posted 03-07-2016 01:27 AM

I have a box full of zero clearance inserts, but I’ve been cutting a lot of angles on this project, so I leave the metal one on. I actually popped one of them in when I was cutting the aluminum tube, so the small pieces didn’t get caught.

Good news – bad news – good news.

While measuring for the new links, I held up one of the ones that wasn’t installed to get a reference, and I realized that they are installed backwards. ;-)

So I took it apart and started turning them around.
And when I got to the ones at the end of the table, it looked like they weren’t going to fit. (I never checked for clearance when I drilled the holes in the rails.)
Fortunately, when I moved it around a bit, it looked like it would barely slide on.

This is where it’s at with the table all the way up, about 1/16” above the cutterhead.

At the position it was in in the video, about 1/16” depth of cut, it’s here.

And if I wanted to do something stupid and try to take a 3/8” deep cut, it looks like this.

So, I got really lucky, and don’t have to remake the links.
Now, there’s a long link that ties the bottoms together, and it’s really close to the bolts that attache the jointer to the base, but I think if I use 1/2” baltic birch, it should just clear it. Whew.

-- Gerry,

View SPalm's profile


5338 posts in 5332 days

#3 posted 03-07-2016 01:32 AM


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View ratchet's profile


1391 posts in 5236 days

#4 posted 03-07-2016 01:35 PM

Looks like its a user. Nice works. Glad the links worked out for you.

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