Home Built 13" Jointer #4: Base Cabinet

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Blog entry by Ger21 posted 02-01-2016 03:41 AM 2351 reads 1 time favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Frame Rails with Cutterhed Mounts Installed Part 4 of Home Built 13" Jointer series Part 5: Motor Mount »

As with most of my projects, this is going to take much longer than I thought.
I started the base by cutting the front and back panels on my CNC router. They’re not square, and they had odd shaped cutouts, so this was the best method. I even drilled holes to accept t-nuts to mount the blade guard.

The side panels were cut on the table saw, and then I used the CNC for the cutout for the dust hose.
I wanted a chamfer on the outside corners, which didn’t leave much room to screw the base together, so I cut a 1/8” x 3/4” rabbet on both sides of the front and back panels, to accept the side panels, and glued the four base panels together. Once I get the motor mount installed, I’ll go back and add some corner reinforcement to the insides.

Dust collection is a bit tricky, due to limited space. I looked at plastic dust fittings for a few hours, and decided on this one. Rather than build a duct that extended down into the base, the fitting will mount into the upper frame. The hose will attach inside the base, and exit through a hole in the side.

Next step was to fabricate the “Feet” and their reinforcements. The leveling feet will be hockey pucks attached to carriage bolts, and mount in t-nuts that are encased in the feet on each end. I used the CNC to router the pocket for the hockey pucks and t-nuts. I inserted the t-nuts, and then glued the two halves together , then trimmed to clean them up.

For the supports, I glued up the baltic birch first, then cut them to shape. Lots of angles. I cut the first one wrong, so I glues it back together and re-cut it. Fortunately, I hadn’t cut it to length yet, so it worked out fine.

All these parts get a chamfered edge, which I do on the table saw. This is an excellent way to cut chamfers, if you have a right tilt saw. With a sharp blade, it’s fast, and you get really nice, crisp chamfers. It’s very safe, too, because very little of the blade is exposed.

I clamp a piece of scrap MDF to the fence, then tilt the blade 45°, and raise it into the sacrificial fence. I draw a line where I want the blade to end up, and then move the fence to sneak up on the line.

For longer parts, I just slide them along the fence. For some of the smaller edges, I used the miter gauge, set at various angles.

I then ended up with these.

To mount the frame to the base, I used some of the scrap LVL material to make some top rails, and glued and screwed them into the base.

The end result is a mostly finished base cabinet. Not really a cabinet, though, as there’s no bottom.

-- Gerry,

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