Jet JBS-18 Bandsaw Restoration #2: Getting the Jet BS Up and Running

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Blog entry by FreezFurn posted 08-27-2013 02:48 AM 3592 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Buying the Beast Part 2 of Jet JBS-18 Bandsaw Restoration series Part 3: Reconstruction of Missing Parts and Dust Collection »

It took me quite some time to get 240v ran to the basement, but the installation of a new gas stove right above me in the kitchen could not have been better timed. So, I extended the line from the stove and added two new outlets in the ceiling of my shop. I did not want to invest too much money into a lemon, so I hesitantly hooked it up to the new wiring. It cranked up and ran very loudly with no blade. Which brings me to bearings. Here is a pic of the old upper wheel bearings. They were totally filled with sawdust and grime. I was surprised that the wheel still moved!

Be sure not to buy bearings made for a bandsaw. Bearings are bearings. I bought double shielded (rubber) thrust bearings and standard shielded (metal shields) for the upper and lower wheels. Six bearings cost me about thirtreen dollars total at Fastenal as apposed to two to three times that much on line. Just get the code from your manual and buy the cheapest you can find from a decent store.

Removing the lower drive shaft and lower bearings was a real pain, until I realized there were retainer springs holding the bearing on the shaft. Removed those and used a pulley puller to remove the drive pulley. I also used it to remove the upper and lower wheels from the axels. Here is a pic of the drive pulley and axel and the axel removed. The sawdust was so thick I did not notice the round spring keeping the bearing joined tightly to he shaft.

Here is the lower drive shaft and the old bearings.

So, I am trying to get it to run nice and smooth, right? Well, it is all disassembled, so decided that I might as well get a new link belt. Installed it and the motor would only run one out of three times. The belt seemed to be adjusted correctly, yet it would squeal loudly and strain to start. After some research, I found that the culprit could be the start capacitor. So, I ordered one for about $8 from Temco Industrial, and it arrived in 3 or 4 days. Their videos on YouTube really helped me isolate the issue. Here is a pic of the old one removed from the bump housing on the side of the motor.

More to come soon…

-- Andy (Father, Math Teacher, Coach, and occasionally... Woodworker) "You must build this Tabernacle and its furnishings exactly according to the pattern I will show you." Exodus 25:9

3 comments so far

View bbrown's profile


374 posts in 4637 days

#1 posted 07-19-2020 07:06 PM

Hope I don’t need to do all this. But if I do this will certainly help.

-- Traditional Woodworking & Carving classes at my shop in Coastal Maine:

View Billsr's profile


1 post in 1887 days

#2 posted 04-16-2021 04:04 PM

I recently purchased a JBS-18 basket case. I have everything together except I do not have the larger pully that goes on the drive-wheel arbor. Can you tell me what size is the pully? I should be able to get one if I can find out the size. Also, I would love a copy of the manual if there is one available somewhere.

View splintergroup's profile


5134 posts in 2307 days

#3 posted 04-16-2021 09:44 PM

Looks like you stirred up a hornets nest of 18” Jet refurbishers Andy 8^)

I blogged a 1960’s Powermatic 141 (14”) and had loads of fun doing it, but I like old machinery and it’s just my “thing”

Don’t forget to either blow the crud out of the motor, or better yet, pull the end cover and clean up the start switch as that switch goes hand in hand with the functioning of the start cap.

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