Again with the Dutch tool chest... #3: Hinges, filling, runners

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Fraxinus posted 09-24-2016 06:43 AM 1130 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Breadboard ends Part 3 of Again with the Dutch tool chest... series Part 4: Paint it black »

I spent an evening or two after work this week chopping the hinge mortises and fitting the hinges. The main thing I wanted to avoid was a big gap between the lid and the rim of the case. I also wanted to make sure the lid would stay open.

I managed to chop the mortises pretty much exactly how I wanted it, so the fit of the lid to the rim was nice and tight. At first the lid was almost exactly 90 degrees when opened so just a bump sent it falling, but after some fiddling I managed to get it to stay up more reliably. Not 100% happy with it, but it’ll do.

One thing I forgot to do was check the straps for square. When I first stood back to look at them I noticed the first hinge I attached was noticeably skewed. Not a lot, but enough. I had a hard time marking that one, the angled top makes it a bit awkward to balance. I later figured out I could lay the lid and case on the bench and mark it that way, which is much easier, but oh well.

The lid opened and closed just fine, but I can’t look at a cockeyed hinge for the rest of my life. So when I took them off to prepare for painting, I filled the old screw holes on that hinge so I could square it up. I used match sized slivers of wood and epoxy.

The offending hinge is on the left.

After work yesterday I filled in all the gaps, tear out, etc. I got some wicked tear out while making the rabbets for 3 of the 4 breadboards, which I filled in with sawdust and glue. I used wood filler in some other spots on the case. I’m glad this is going to get painted.

I also experimented with fixing a gap in the fall front, which had developed a bit of twist, making one of the corners curve out a bit. I was going to take the battens and lock piece off and plane the twist out, but I was quickly reminded that I had both screwed and glued the battens on. D’oh. So I got the outside of the offending corner wet then clamped it to the case. I had no idea if that would work, my theory was that the concave side was drier than the convex side. This morning when I unclamped it the gap was still there, but had been reduced by about half. So it kind of sort of worked. We’ll see if it lasts.

This morning I sanded/planed all the filler and some other areas in preparation for paint. Also made runners for the bottom. Sawed off about a 10-1/2” length of kiln dried Doug-fir 2×4, resawed it to about 7/8”, ripped it to about 1-1/8” wide, then trued it up and reduced the thickness to 3/4”. Then did what I’m calling a raised panel on it. Not sure what it’s really called, but it’s the same form and process as a raised panel. Basically to make them look less blocky.

I used 3 screws per runner to attach them to the bottom. Looking back on it I’m not sure that was the greatest idea (wood movement and all). Hopefully it won’t cause problems.

0 comments so far

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics