Peterbilt truck #18: What I didn,t like

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Blog entry by Dutchy posted 03-05-2015 12:54 PM 2847 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 17: What went wrong and mistakes Part 18 of Peterbilt truck series Part 19: Preview »

I love working with the T and J plans but there is one thing I don,t like and that is making handles, mirrors and so on. This little stuff is made out of 2,3mm (3/32”) dowels. Dowells of 2,3 mm are hard to get in europe so I use 3 mm (almost 1/8”). I do the glueing with CA. Below you see a couple of picture,s from the way I try to press it together.

Is there someone who can give me an advise to do this easier. You are welcome!!

Thanks for watching.


8 comments so far

View kweinert's profile


41 posts in 3710 days

#1 posted 03-05-2015 03:09 PM

I’m probably not going to be able to describe this very well, but here’s a thought.

Can you make an L shaped support out of something like HDPE ( for example.

Three pieces with grooves could be used. I thought of HDPE because the glue shouldn’t stick to it. By arranging the pieces as shown in the diagram below you support the dowels so they don’t bow under pressure, you help enforce a good corner alignment, etc.

You’d want to make more than one set – that way you can do different sized square glueups without having to make a custom support for each one.

Hope this makes sense. I don’t think you’ll use any fewer clamps with this setup but I think it will support the constructions better.

I’ve looked at making a couple of these models as well and 3/32 is an odd size of dowel to use. I’ve only found one place you can get it online.

-- Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterward. But properly learned, the lesson forever changes the person.

View Dutchy's profile


3506 posts in 2769 days

#2 posted 03-05-2015 04:14 PM


A very good idea. Thank you for your clear explanation. The next time I will gif this a try.


View stefang's profile


17034 posts in 3935 days

#3 posted 03-05-2015 07:32 PM

Maybe not the best solution, but I would take a piece of flat board or platter, draw the square to describe the pattern and then drill a hole in each corner, lay the dowels onto the pattern where the glue will be applied to prevent the dowels from sticking to the board. This should work well with superglue.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View crowie's profile


3367 posts in 2552 days

#4 posted 03-06-2015 08:50 AM

Isn’t it great when blokes help each other from there experiences and know-how….
Thank you to both Dutchy and “kweinert”....much appreciated….

-- Lifes good, Enjoy each new day...... Cheers from "On Top DownUnder" Crowie

View stefang's profile


17034 posts in 3935 days

#5 posted 03-06-2015 08:50 AM

Hi Jan. Here is a picture to show you my glueing solution. Please let me know if this is not clear.

I would assemble the work piece dry, tape it to the board and then drip the glue into the corners.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dutchy's profile


3506 posts in 2769 days

#6 posted 03-06-2015 10:42 AM

Thanks Mike,

Your drawing is clear. Next time I will try it and also let you know if it works.


View LittleBlackDuck's profile


3414 posts in 1422 days

#7 posted 02-26-2016 11:48 AM

Dutchy, I live in Australia so 3/32” is even prehistoric to us. I have found some toothpicks come very close, however, they are not consistent. What I do is everytime I place an order for a T and J plan (I buy the spare parts kit) I over stock by ordering various diameter imperial dowels. I guess I now have enough stockpiled to build about 30 models. Having said that, I use a shopmade tiny mitre box with Japanese finecut saw to cut the 3/32” dowels and with superglue on one piece and a spritz of accelerator on the other, as soon as I touch I get an instantaneous solid bond with no need to hold the pieces together or apply pressure. The downside is that if you miss alignment you have a wonky join that needs to be broken and redone after some careful sanding.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View Dutchy's profile


3506 posts in 2769 days

#8 posted 02-26-2016 12:32 PM

Thanks Alex.

Currently I do it the way you discriped. And it goes exact as you discriped. Comment is that a joint with an accelerator is less strong than one without.

Thanks again.


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