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Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #42: Hip Braces

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Blog entry by DustyMark posted 08-02-2020 03:49 AM 476 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 41: Reworked Anchor/Rod Holder Module Part 42 of Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double series Part 43: Front Hip Braces »

End Pour
I did the epoxy end pour of the bow yesterday. The objective of this step is to provide a strong means of mounting the pad eye on the bow. My parents came over for dinner and my Dad helped me flip the kayak onto its nose and tie it to the ladder on the rear of my camper. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture.

This is 8 ounces of lightly thickened epoxy and it cooked off pretty good with so much epoxy in such a tight area. There was no good way for the heat to escape from the chemical reaction of the cure. Smoke was wafting out of the hatch.

Here’s the pad eye installed. I’ll tie the toggle to it once the paint cures.

Touch-Up Paint
I primed and painted all the parts that weren’t green on the outside of the boat. I also applied a couple coats of varnish to the anchor/rod module that I reworked.

Hip Braces
I’ve pondered what to do about hip braces for quite a while and even considered not installing them. However the gunnel on such a long cockpit has quite a bit of flex and would surely benefit from some braces. I plan to paddle this boat in Lake Superior quite a bit and it’s always better to have a good fit in the cockpit in the waves.

I opted for a permanent hip brace for the stern paddling position. I struggled more than I care to admit to get this set installed well, but I eventually prevailed. The black board is used to keep the braces in alignment during the gluing process.

The bottom cleat is made of white oak and has a 10 degree bevel at the bottom to ensure a good fit on the floor. Pieces are screwed and epoxied.

The solo paddling position hip braces had to be removable since they get in the way of your feet if paddling from the stern position. I used similar techniques as the stern position, but used threaded inserts instead of screws to attach the cleats. I added a second alignment board at the top and a 20 pound weight to get everything in position. I had to be careful not to accidentally glue the plywood brace to the cleats. I’ll trim the top of the brace flush with the top cleat later.

Note that I used plenty of heavy plastic to keep parts separated. This cleat has a 7 degree bevel (how’s that for picky?)

Next
Fit the front hip braces.

-- Mark, Minnesota



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