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Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #36: Fitting Out the Boat

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Blog entry by DustyMark posted 07-26-2020 04:21 AM 342 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 35: Paint and Varnish Part 36 of Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double series Part 37: Deck Hatch Covers »

Paint and Varnish
I applied a second coat of varnish to the spray deck systems and painted the deck of the kayak. The only painting remaining will be spot painting of accessories after I install them. The spray deck systems are on track to be done after the third coat tomorrow.

Fishing Kayak Outfitting
I began the process of setting up the kayak for fishing. This won’t take very long since I had my previous single kayak set up quite well and I’m mostly transferring parts.

This board is located behind my seat. I’ll install three or four rod holder bases and an Anchor Wizard retrieval system. It fastens the same way as the spray decks. The cooler will be strapped to the floor and I’ll need to fasten four footman loops to keep it secure.

The front shelf is extremely handy. I’ll mount a rod holder base, fish finder, anchor cleat, ram mount ball for my transducer, and my hook removal kit. It’s nice having everything within arm’s reach.

The nice thing about this setup is that all of it removes quickly to transition the kayak to other uses. My seat is a little forward, but the cooler should offset my weight for fore and aft trim purposes.

Smart Track Rudder
I also began the installation process for the rudder. I’ve not installed this model before, so I’m taking my time to be sure I get it right the first time.

The transom of the kayak is not plumb. If I had mounted the rudder as is, it would have been angled towards the bow! I made a wedge out of white oak to get the rudder plumb. I haven’t floated the boat, so this was an educated guess, but it’s going to be better no matter what.

View from starboard side.

The rudder cables run along the sheer line, come through the stern bulkhead and then exit the deck at a shallow angle. I’ll slather this hole up with 3M 5200 fast cure adhesive caulk once everything is routed and adjusted.

The rudder lift mechanism runs through only one fairlead to minimize direction changes and friction.

A jam cleat holds the rudder lift in the desired position.

Brass Pad Eye

The stern pad eye provides a secure means for lifting the kayak…once I tie in the handle.

I made a backing plate from 1/8” aluminum scrap. This ensures the screws won’t tear out. You can also see the opposing wedge backing plate for the rudder bracket in this photo. The bow pad eye is screwed into an epoxy end pour. I’ll do the pour later in the week.

Next
Finish installing the rudder and fitting hip braces.

-- Mark, Minnesota



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