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Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double #25: Attaching the Coaming Ring

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Blog entry by DustyMark posted 07-14-2020 12:56 PM 330 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 24: Cleaning Up Hatch Openings and Applying Second Coat of Epoxy to Deck Part 25 of Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double series Part 26: Fiberglassing the Coaming Ring »

Lots of Clamps
The cockpit is 84 1/2” long and 20 1/2” wide…that took a lot of clamps to attach the coaming ring! The coaming ring is made up of two spacers and the actual coaming ring. This stack is glued with epoxy thickened with silica. The plan calls for mixing it to a mustard consistency. I made my batch a bit thicker to fill gaps better and it worked well. The danger with going much thicker is that you could lose adhesion and it could require more clamping pressure.

View of the first coaming spacer at the bow with epoxy applied for the next layer. Notice that I failed to remove the CNC nibs. That’s no issue on cockpit side since there is easy access with a file, but the nibs on the other side are going to require some chisel work…oops!

View of first coaming spacer at stern.

View of second coaming spacer.

I used all of my mixed collection of 46 small clamps, that I’ve acquired over nine previous boat builds, to complete this task. The deck is a three-dimensional shape, so the coaming layers must be coaxed into position and lined up as evenly as possible as the clamps are applied. My wife was out kayaking and I ended up doing this solo. My haste made this more of a challenge, but it’s done.

I used my finger to squeegee glue squeeze-out into the inevitable gaps formed between the layers, especially at the bow with its compound curves. Even on a varnish-quality build, this is hidden by the shadow of the coaming at normal viewing angles. The plan calls for an epoxy fillet under the coaming to increase its strength. Much of this fillet is formed by the squeeze-out from the assembly. I may add more after the clamps are removed and I can flip the boat upside down to form it in a more controlled manner.

Next
Clean up the layers of the coaming assembly, form a radius on the inside edge, and fiberglass the coaming.

-- Mark, Minnesota



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