Wine Rack Expedition #3: Dowling and.... more dowling

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Blog entry by Demowen posted 03-26-2009 07:26 AM 1855 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Rough Milling and setting up for detail Part 3 of Wine Rack Expedition series Part 4: Result of Monotony »

Well, unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot of content to go through for this step since it is pretty much doing the same thing over and over again. I marked out on the legs where I want the rails to go. I had to alter some measurements from the plans since the rails are now 3.5” instead of 4” wide. I wanted to get all of the front and side pieces out of the same board and this was the price I paid. No biggie, will look about the same in the end.

So the lines were all laid out, I decided to dowel all the rails into the legs since I am on a slight time crunch. Mortise and tenons would have taken too long, so this seems to be a strong, good looking, and quicker alternative.
I go my self centering dowel jig from Grizzly (birthday gift) and it is turning out to be quite a help! Compared to some other doweling jig prices, this one was pretty good at around $30-$50.

Doweling Jig

Here is a picture of the pieces marked and ready for dowels. Sorry, but you can’t really see any layout lines…
layout lines

I have 5 rails that wrap around all four sides. Two dowels to each side of the rail. And two drilled holes for each dowel. That means I have to drill 160 holes for 80 dowels. A snapshot of me doing one of the 180 holes that need to be drilled…. I look so enthused…

I got the front legs and the front rails all drilled out. Time for a dry fit!!!
dry fit
It was surprisingly difficult to line up 10 dowels into 10 holes on each side, so one side only has 1 dowel per rail in it for now. When I glue up I think I will do it one side at a time, too much difficulty during a glue up is unneeded stress. I don’t do stress. (notice the lovely rust-colored freezer behind the dry fit)

The fit was pretty good, I have to cut the dowels a little shorter because I didn’t figure in the fact that the drill bit is tapered at the tip. I set the depth to 1/2” but the actual depth without the taper is closer to 1/4”-3/8”. Oh well, easy fix. The picture also has mineral spirits on it to get a small idea of what the finish will look like.

Speaking of finish, I bought some Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) today at work. I’ve never used it so I’ll have to try some samples. Any recommendations on the finish??! I thought BLO with shellac but I can’t do that since this table might be near alcohol (shellac=alcohol based, bad to spill booze on it). So perhaps a BLO with a couple wipe downs of Poly and Mineral Spirits mix.

Next up… Hopefully no more drilling… Some band sawing for shapes, some template routing with a flush trim bit and an immense amount of card scraping. (oh joy)

-- Let the favor of the Lord our God be on us; establish the work of our hands- establish the work of our hands! Psalm 90:17

2 comments so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 4301 days

#1 posted 03-26-2009 12:34 PM

This is looking pretty good so far. Your finishing routine, applying wipe-on poly over BLO, will work well. You could put on a seal coat of shellac over the BLO and then topcoat it with wipe-on poly if you wanted. This would eliminate the alcohol problem. But that is largely a matter of personal preference.

Enjoy the card scraping. By the time you are at this stage the end is in sight! :)

I am looking forward to your next installment.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Demowen's profile


121 posts in 3877 days

#2 posted 03-26-2009 03:24 PM

Thanks Scott! What would the Shellac do for the look of the piece that just going from the BLO to the poly wouldn’t? Why the extra step?

-- Let the favor of the Lord our God be on us; establish the work of our hands- establish the work of our hands! Psalm 90:17

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