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#1 ·
The Classic One - -The Morgan

This is my first foray into creating a blog on Lumberjocks or on any site for that matter so I will apologize from the beginning if this is a bit hamfisted or too long winded. Please bear with me and offer any advice you deem valuable to help me improve.

This is the intro to my journey to create the Classic Sports Car - - The Morgan, using a plan I got from Dutchy. So far I have about 55 hours into the build and have learned a ton from this experience. The plan is great and the outcome will be a terrific model. There is much to be learned from this endeavor for me. For example, the plan, while it contains the necessary templates (Pages 48 through 61), there are a lot of things that are not included on the template but that are listed in the initial "Chapters" of the plan. Also bear in mind that the Templates have a legend at the top right corner explaining the naming convention. For example, if a part is labeled "1A 10", this tells you the Chapter (1), Part number (A) and thickness in mm (10). Very helpful. The "Chapters" are each and every section of the car that needs to be created and they usually contain all the pertinent info like radii, size, full view construction plans, etc. The plans are metric so for those of us in the Imperial world, I found myself floating back and forth between the two worlds. Not a problem just something to bear in mind. If you have metric drills and available metric dowels, them most of the issues go away. The plan has a great page (Page 2) that gives the equivalents of Imperial drill sizes to use when metric are called for. Really a handy thing to have. If you use the templates most of the measuring is done for you.

This is a very detailed plan and you have the opportunity to make it your own by including some details or omitting others. How to create the wire wheels is clearly laid out but you can make your own if you so desire. When I get to that point, I will make mine using the jig is copied from Bushmaster. I will, however, make the tires and rims according to the metric sizes shown in the templates.

My next blog will be about creating the Wheel Space on part 3A. If approached in a thoughtful manner and decisions are made concerning the tire sizing, then its really not too difficult. The plans give you the cut dimensions but they do not tell you how to actually fabricate the finished piece. That's where you skill comes in.

I hope this has not been too long or rambling. More to come with some photos to help clarify the fabrication. this blog series will not be a step by step journey. It will touch on a couple of the more prickly areas that I encountered. In the mean time, if your interested in seeing how others approached this build, make sure to read Dutchy's blog on the Morgan and also watch Steve's (Phenrica Woodstuff) video on YouTube. Both contain a lot of great info and the approaches are somewhat different.

Please let me know if you have any question or recommendations.

Dave
 
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#6 ·
DaveS2 - Since you plan to make changes to Dutchy's model, I recommend that you do a Google or Bing search on "Morgan auto" and carefully study the images of actual Morgan Plus 4s. There are many details that differ from the wooden model.
 
#8 ·
Creating the Wheel Space, Part 03

Today I am going to show a bit of the fabrication method I used to create the Wheel Space of the Morgan. The spare wheel resides on a slanted area on what we would call the trunk in the US. The plan provides all the necessary calculations and templates to create his part but it in no way describes just how to accomplish it.

There are a couple of ways to "git 'er done". First, if you have a large enough forstner bit, you can set the part of the correct 35 degree angle on the drill press and drill it to the correct depth. I didn't have a bit 65mm or 2.5" so I opted for the Second method: Dutchy's method of using a router, a template, and a top bearing pattern bit to make the part. I've used templates with a router for years so, for me, this was a no brainer.

The template can be made from MDF or ply or any material that is not too thick. . nothing over 1/4" or 5-6mm. As long as the bearing can ride along the template it will go well. If you don't have a pattern bit, you can easily use a straight bit with a template bushing in the base plate. You will need to measure the thickness of the template bushing and add that dimension to the template cutout. NOTE: if the pattern bit cut length you have is not long enough, once the depth of cut will permit the bearing to ride on the edge of the actual cut out, you can remove the template and readjust the depth to meet the needed depth. The workpiece becomes its own template.

Wood Rectangle Art Gas Hardwood

Here the template is attached with double stick tape and centered on the part, ready to be routed.

Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Gas


The top bearing pattern bit. It is designed to cut clean bottom areas and the bearing will ride on the template. A note: if you make the template out of MDF, my recommendation is that you coat the edge with a couple layers of thin CA. This will provide a tough surface that will hold up to repeated used. If this is a "one and done", then the untreated edge is fine.

Wood Gas Circle Audio equipment Auto part


Set the router bit depth so that the bearing connects with the template edge and, beginning in the center of the piece, work the router round until the bearing full contacts the template edge and the rout around the template. This photo shows some of the initial passes.

Wood Audio equipment Font Auto part Metal

The finished wheel space routed to the final diameter and depth. Note the clean, flat bottom of the well. The same result will be attained with the 1/4" (6mm) or 1/2" (12mm) straight bit and the router base bushing.

Wood Gas Sewing Engineering Publication


How Part 03, The Wheel Space looks when positioned on the chassis.

That finishes up this part of the blog. Hope this has been helpful. Please send me any questions, comments, or recommendations you may have.

-Dave
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Creating the Wheel Space, Part 03

Today I am going to show a bit of the fabrication method I used to create the Wheel Space of the Morgan. The spare wheel resides on a slanted area on what we would call the trunk in the US. The plan provides all the necessary calculations and templates to create his part but it in no way describes just how to accomplish it.

There are a couple of ways to "git 'er done". First, if you have a large enough forstner bit, you can set the part of the correct 35 degree angle on the drill press and drill it to the correct depth. I didn't have a bit 65mm or 2.5" so I opted for the Second method: Dutchy's method of using a router, a template, and a top bearing pattern bit to make the part. I've used templates with a router for years so, for me, this was a no brainer.

The template can be made from MDF or ply or any material that is not too thick. . nothing over 1/4" or 5-6mm. As long as the bearing can ride along the template it will go well. If you don't have a pattern bit, you can easily use a straight bit with a template bushing in the base plate. You will need to measure the thickness of the template bushing and add that dimension to the template cutout. NOTE: if the pattern bit cut length you have is not long enough, once the depth of cut will permit the bearing to ride on the edge of the actual cut out, you can remove the template and readjust the depth to meet the needed depth. The workpiece becomes its own template.

Wood Rectangle Art Gas Hardwood

Here the template is attached with double stick tape and centered on the part, ready to be routed.

Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Gas


The top bearing pattern bit. It is designed to cut clean bottom areas and the bearing will ride on the template. A note: if you make the template out of MDF, my recommendation is that you coat the edge with a couple layers of thin CA. This will provide a tough surface that will hold up to repeated used. If this is a "one and done", then the untreated edge is fine.

Wood Gas Circle Audio equipment Auto part


Set the router bit depth so that the bearing connects with the template edge and, beginning in the center of the piece, work the router round until the bearing full contacts the template edge and the rout around the template. This photo shows some of the initial passes.

Wood Audio equipment Font Auto part Metal

The finished wheel space routed to the final diameter and depth. Note the clean, flat bottom of the well. The same result will be attained with the 1/4" (6mm) or 1/2" (12mm) straight bit and the router base bushing.

Wood Gas Sewing Engineering Publication


How Part 03, The Wheel Space looks when positioned on the chassis.

That finishes up this part of the blog. Hope this has been helpful. Please send me any questions, comments, or recommendations you may have.

-Dave
The plan provides all the necessary calculations and templates to create his part but it in no way describes just how to accomplish it.

- DaveS2
This is why a blog was also created.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Radiator Insert Chapter 04

I decided to do a quick post on creating the Radiator insert (Part 4A) and the radiator vanes (Part 4B). I knew that I needed to make the vanes to fit the insert part but was not sure how to proceed. Thinking about it I came up with the following solution (I'm sure there are more elegant ways to do this, but it worked for me, and I still have all 10 digits)

Create Part 4A by milling the stock to the correct thickness and make it oversize so that working with it is safe. I used painters tape and spray adhesive to put the template on the stock. Cut to oversize on the bandsaw and then sand to size and shape.

Rectangle Textile Font Linens T-shirt



Select the stock for the vanes (Part 4B) making sure that there is sufficient thickness to accommodate the next steps

Attach the vane stock to a larger piece of material with double stick tape. This will provide a safe way to cut the vanes on the bandsaw.
Rectangle Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Using a compass, scribe the vane outer and inner dimension on the stock.
Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Table

Brown Rectangle Wood Font Wood stain


cut the outer radius oversize and sand to final dimension:
Automotive tire Road surface Wood Gas Composite material


Repeat by cutting the inner radius and sand to final shape and thickness.

Measure the 2.5mm thickness of the vanes and set the bandsaw fence to that dimension. Use 1/4" MDF or ply or hard board to create a zero clearance table insert.
Door mat Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


With the concave side down, push the vane blank through the cut. repeat until you have the needed number of vane blanks
Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Flooring Linens


Wood Font Nickel Fashion accessory Metal


Sand the pieces if needed and apply to Part 4A. I start with the one in the middle and use the other blanks as spacers being careful not to glue the spacer in. I use a medium CA for this particular construction.
Safety glove Wood Glove Fashion accessory Hardwood


Glue all the vanes (Part 4B) on the insert (Part A) and then sand to final size and shape.
Wood Headgear Cap Beige Natural material


After this is completed and dry fit into Part 4C, any additional sanding adjustment of the shape can be one for a perfect fit.

I hope this helps anyone making this particular plan.

Today I start fabricating the tires, rims, and spokes. More to follow.

Regards,
Dave
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Radiator Insert Chapter 04

I decided to do a quick post on creating the Radiator insert (Part 4A) and the radiator vanes (Part 4B). I knew that I needed to make the vanes to fit the insert part but was not sure how to proceed. Thinking about it I came up with the following solution (I'm sure there are more elegant ways to do this, but it worked for me, and I still have all 10 digits)

Create Part 4A by milling the stock to the correct thickness and make it oversize so that working with it is safe. I used painters tape and spray adhesive to put the template on the stock. Cut to oversize on the bandsaw and then sand to size and shape.

Rectangle Textile Font Linens T-shirt

Wood Gas Rectangle Flooring Automotive design


Select the stock for the vanes (Part 4B) making sure that there is sufficient thickness to accommodate the next steps

Attach the vane stock to a larger piece of material with double stick tape. This will provide a safe way to cut the vanes on the bandsaw.
Rectangle Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Using a compass, scribe the vane outer and inner dimension on the stock.
Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Table

Brown Rectangle Wood Font Wood stain


cut the outer radius oversize and sand to final dimension:
Automotive tire Road surface Wood Gas Composite material


Repeat by cutting the inner radius and sand to final shape and thickness.

Measure the 2.5mm thickness of the vanes and set the bandsaw fence to that dimension. Use 1/4" MDF or ply or hard board to create a zero clearance table insert.
Door mat Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


With the concave side down, push the vane blank through the cut. repeat until you have the needed number of vane blanks
Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Flooring Linens


Wood Font Nickel Fashion accessory Metal


Sand the pieces if needed and apply to Part 4A. I start with the one in the middle and use the other blanks as spacers being careful not to glue the spacer in. I use a medium CA for this particular construction.
Safety glove Wood Glove Fashion accessory Hardwood


Glue all the vanes (Part 4B) on the insert (Part A) and then sand to final size and shape.
Wood Headgear Cap Beige Natural material


After this is completed and dry fit into Part 4C, any additional sanding adjustment of the shape can be one for a perfect fit.

I hope this helps anyone making this particular plan.

Today I start fabricating the tires, rims, and spokes. More to follow.

Regards,
Dave
One of the hardest parts. You did it the way it was drawn! Very nice and thanks for the blog, and yes for others this can help.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Spoked Wheels

I have reached the fabrication of the wheels. While I definitely considered doing the wheels shown in the plan, I finally decided that I would just make spoked wheels using the jig I copied from Bushmaster. The biggest question was how many spokes. I decided on a total of 16.

I turned the tire part and rim part to the appropriate diameter. I made each rim blank 1-5/8 long and using a 1-5/8" forester bit I bored out the interior of the rim to the depth of 1-inch, leaving the 5/8" added length solid. A 1/2" hole for the center peg was drilled while the rim was still on the lathe. After gluing the peg, the 1/4" center bore was made for the axle. I left the rim part about 5/8" longer so I could chuck it for final sanding after drilling.

The jig is made from scrap stock found in the shop, so disregard the celtic knot carving on the front face. :) I chose my 8 spoke index wheel and mounted that to the rear of the chuck, attaching the rim blank to the front post.
Wood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Vehicle


Wood Machine tool Gas Machine Engineering

The rim blank is positioned and you can see the scribe lines for the spoke position. The rear mark will be made with the jig level on the table, drilling 8 locations. The second (front) set of spokes will be drilled at an 8-degree tilt spaced in the double lined area and located between the first set of spoke holes.

After all the rims were drilled, it was time to add the spokes. I use round tooth picks. They measure out to be around 3/32" and perfect for this use.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Rim

Spokes are glued in using medium CA.

After giving the glue some cure time, the spokes are clipped to final length, chucked into the lathe and a file used to smooth the rim for fit into the tire.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Cylinder Machine


Household hardware Gas Auto part Machine Nickel


Before final fitting of the rims to the tires, the tires are stained black using MinWax True Black penetrating stain. After it was dry, the rims and tires are glued together and the axle knobs and axle pegs were fabricated. The finished wheel assembly is chucked onto the lathe and the extra length of the rim stock is removed.
Automotive tire Wood Dishware Rim Alloy wheel


Two of the finished wheels.

The journey continues and is nearing completion. I have about 75 hours into this project at this point with a few left.

Keep making' sawdust!
Dave
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Spoked Wheels

I have reached the fabrication of the wheels. While I definitely considered doing the wheels shown in the plan, I finally decided that I would just make spoked wheels using the jig I copied from Bushmaster. The biggest question was how many spokes. I decided on a total of 16.

I turned the tire part and rim part to the appropriate diameter. I made each rim blank 1-5/8 long and using a 1-5/8" forester bit I bored out the interior of the rim to the depth of 1-inch, leaving the 5/8" added length solid. A 1/2" hole for the center peg was drilled while the rim was still on the lathe. After gluing the peg, the 1/4" center bore was made for the axle. I left the rim part about 5/8" longer so I could chuck it for final sanding after drilling.

The jig is made from scrap stock found in the shop, so disregard the celtic knot carving on the front face. :) I chose my 8 spoke index wheel and mounted that to the rear of the chuck, attaching the rim blank to the front post.
Wood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Vehicle


Wood Machine tool Gas Machine Engineering

The rim blank is positioned and you can see the scribe lines for the spoke position. The rear mark will be made with the jig level on the table, drilling 8 locations. The second (front) set of spokes will be drilled at an 8-degree tilt spaced in the double lined area and located between the first set of spoke holes.

After all the rims were drilled, it was time to add the spokes. I use round tooth picks. They measure out to be around 3/32" and perfect for this use.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Rim

Spokes are glued in using medium CA.

After giving the glue some cure time, the spokes are clipped to final length, chucked into the lathe and a file used to smooth the rim for fit into the tire.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Cylinder Machine


Household hardware Gas Auto part Machine Nickel


Before final fitting of the rims to the tires, the tires are stained black using MinWax True Black penetrating stain. After it was dry, the rims and tires are glued together and the axle knobs and axle pegs were fabricated. The finished wheel assembly is chucked onto the lathe and the extra length of the rim stock is removed.
Automotive tire Wood Dishware Rim Alloy wheel


Two of the finished wheels.

The journey continues and is nearing completion. I have about 75 hours into this project at this point with a few left.

Keep making' sawdust!
Dave
NICE WHEELS!
 

Attachments

#25 ·
The Wind Screen

Of all the parts to be created, I found this part, the Wind Screen, to be the most tedious and, for me, the most difficult. I'm not sure why but I just couldn't wrap my head around it. I watched and watched and watched Dutchy's blog on this but still I was not sure how to proceed. I reached out to Dutchy, and fortunately for me, he was very willing to help out and offer insight and advice. I really want him to know how much I appreciate his help.

The first step is to study the plan for the wind screen on page 32 of the plan and get the orientation into your mind. Two base brackets, R and L must be made and each has its own tilt rearward. Also, there are no templates for the parts so I used the diagrams on Page 32 as my template. Fortunately, it prints at 1:1 size so that is a great help.

Mill the stock to the appropriate size. While I insured the thickness was correct, I allowed a bit extra for width and length to help make the sawing more manageable. Remember that although the thickness is 17mm, you will end up with a part that is only 4mm thick, after the final diagonal cut is made.

Wood Rectangle Font Wood stain Electric blue


I use painters tape and spray adhesive to attach the templates for cutting.
Hood Automotive tire Road surface Automotive lighting Bumper


Hand Wood Font Automotive design Electric blue

The base parts after they are made on the scroll saw. they are put back together with double side tape for the next step.

Rectangle Art Paint Wood Font


Here is where I floundered on this fabrication. I just could not get it straight in my mind how the diagonals were to be cut for each piece. The diagram on Page 32 is on but it just wasn't exactly spot on. Dutchy's advice was to actually mark the diagonals using the measurements shown on the diagram and that is what I did. Also after you cut one of the pieces, it is clear how to proceed with the other side.
Automotive design Table Rectangle Wood Eyewear


With cuts completed, all that remains is to do a bit of sanding, fitting, and creating the top cross bar piece.

It really wasn't as hard as I was making it out to be, but the spacial recognition just escaped me. Dutchy came to the rescue.

Textile Wood Plant Comfort Armrest


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Comfort Chair


The windscreen is done and is attached to the the body. I am moving forward to finishing this up before I leave on a trip to watch my granddaughter graduate from High School in New York.

regards,
Dave
 

Attachments

#26 ·
The Wind Screen

Of all the parts to be created, I found this part, the Wind Screen, to be the most tedious and, for me, the most difficult. I'm not sure why but I just couldn't wrap my head around it. I watched and watched and watched Dutchy's blog on this but still I was not sure how to proceed. I reached out to Dutchy, and fortunately for me, he was very willing to help out and offer insight and advice. I really want him to know how much I appreciate his help.

The first step is to study the plan for the wind screen on page 32 of the plan and get the orientation into your mind. Two base brackets, R and L must be made and each has its own tilt rearward. Also, there are no templates for the parts so I used the diagrams on Page 32 as my template. Fortunately, it prints at 1:1 size so that is a great help.

Mill the stock to the appropriate size. While I insured the thickness was correct, I allowed a bit extra for width and length to help make the sawing more manageable. Remember that although the thickness is 17mm, you will end up with a part that is only 4mm thick, after the final diagonal cut is made.

Wood Rectangle Font Wood stain Electric blue


I use painters tape and spray adhesive to attach the templates for cutting.
Hood Automotive tire Road surface Automotive lighting Bumper


Hand Wood Font Automotive design Electric blue

The base parts after they are made on the scroll saw. they are put back together with double side tape for the next step.

Rectangle Art Paint Wood Font


Here is where I floundered on this fabrication. I just could not get it straight in my mind how the diagonals were to be cut for each piece. The diagram on Page 32 is on but it just wasn't exactly spot on. Dutchy's advice was to actually mark the diagonals using the measurements shown on the diagram and that is what I did. Also after you cut one of the pieces, it is clear how to proceed with the other side.
Automotive design Table Rectangle Wood Eyewear


With cuts completed, all that remains is to do a bit of sanding, fitting, and creating the top cross bar piece.

It really wasn't as hard as I was making it out to be, but the spacial recognition just escaped me. Dutchy came to the rescue.

Textile Wood Plant Comfort Armrest


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Comfort Chair


The windscreen is done and is attached to the the body. I am moving forward to finishing this up before I leave on a trip to watch my granddaughter graduate from High School in New York.

regards,
Dave
Now you need some windscreen wipers.
 

Attachments

#29 ·
Finished Morgan - -Last blog in this series

Well, it's been a great journey and its been a lot of fun to create this wonderful Morgan model.

The materials used are many and varied. Here is a list of woods and their use:
Satin Wood - -primary body fabrication
Walnut - - roof, trim work, radiator vanes, wheel hubs, steering wheel, dashboard dial areas, console shifter, brake
Zebra wood - -seats
Bubinga - - dashboard, door panels, windscreen, a couple of the body lights
African Blackwood - - headlights, mirrors
Purple Heart - - center strip on the hood
Ash - - wheels (tires and rims)

Finish is 3 coats of Rattle Can lacquer. My original intent was to use Watco Danish Oil but I wanted to complete this before going away so lacquer got the nod.

Hope you all like the outcome and that just maybe it will inspire you to give the Morgan a try. Its a terrific plan.

Now, I have a while to decide what is next..

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Toy


Wheel Tire Vehicle Hood Car


Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Toy


Brown Luggage and bags Bag Wood Beige


Regards,
Dave
 

Attachments

#30 ·
Finished Morgan - -Last blog in this series

Well, it's been a great journey and its been a lot of fun to create this wonderful Morgan model.

The materials used are many and varied. Here is a list of woods and their use:
Satin Wood - -primary body fabrication
Walnut - - roof, trim work, radiator vanes, wheel hubs, steering wheel, dashboard dial areas, console shifter, brake
Zebra wood - -seats
Bubinga - - dashboard, door panels, windscreen, a couple of the body lights
African Blackwood - - headlights, mirrors
Purple Heart - - center strip on the hood
Ash - - wheels (tires and rims)

Finish is 3 coats of Rattle Can lacquer. My original intent was to use Watco Danish Oil but I wanted to complete this before going away so lacquer got the nod.

Hope you all like the outcome and that just maybe it will inspire you to give the Morgan a try. Its a terrific plan.

Now, I have a while to decide what is next..

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Toy


Wheel Tire Vehicle Hood Car


Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Toy


Brown Luggage and bags Bag Wood Beige


Regards,
Dave
What a great model you made! Very nice. It would be also nice if you post this in the category Projects, then there are many more people who see it. And maybe it will be a TOP 3 listing.

You did a great job on this one.
 

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