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29K views 294 replies 24 participants last post by  DavePolaschek 
#1 ·
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
 

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#153 ·
Second door and stock prep for the carcasse

Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.

The dados in the slats got cut on a table saw this time around. And the mitered half-laps on the door frame pieces got cut at the miter box. Much easier to get everything square that way.

But because the slats had been cut months ago, the walnut ones were all a hair short (maybe an eighth) which meant they didn't sit nicely in the groove in the frame. So I cut some rock-maple scraps I had into 1/8Ă—3/8 strips using my bandsaw, and glued them to the inside of the frame. That will give the slats some extra support. And that glue-up is the most clamps I've ever used on a single piece to date.

Wood Yellow Helmet Engineering Gas


With that done, it was time to start prepping the stock for the carcasse. I had two 4/4 ash boards, one 6¼" wide and one 7⅜" wide, both 6 feet long. My cut list tells me I need 4 48" long 1×5/4 legs, 6 22½" 1×1 pieces, and 6 30" 1×1 pieces. First I cut the board with the straighter grain into a 4 foot length and a 2 foot length, using my miter box. I was glad I had made it so it was the same height as my bench, and a couple sawhorses and some pine scraps made a table for the other side of the saw.

Wood Creative arts Wood stain Hardwood Workbench


Then I cut the 2 foot length down to 22½ inches, and set up my bandsaw to rip 5/4 pieces off the boards. As both boards were nearly flat-sawn, this gives me quarter-sawn pieces if I orient them correctly.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Floor Gas


Then I cut a 30 inch length from the wider board, and ripped it into 6 1â…›"x1" pieces. I'll aim to keep them as close to 1" square after planing them smooth.

Wood Hardwood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Outdoor furniture Wood stain


That was enough for this morning. Next session I'll get busy with a hand-plane and make some nice stock to work with.
 

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#154 ·
Second door and stock prep for the carcasse

Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.

The dados in the slats got cut on a table saw this time around. And the mitered half-laps on the door frame pieces got cut at the miter box. Much easier to get everything square that way.

But because the slats had been cut months ago, the walnut ones were all a hair short (maybe an eighth) which meant they didn't sit nicely in the groove in the frame. So I cut some rock-maple scraps I had into 1/8Ă—3/8 strips using my bandsaw, and glued them to the inside of the frame. That will give the slats some extra support. And that glue-up is the most clamps I've ever used on a single piece to date.

Wood Yellow Helmet Engineering Gas


With that done, it was time to start prepping the stock for the carcasse. I had two 4/4 ash boards, one 6¼" wide and one 7⅜" wide, both 6 feet long. My cut list tells me I need 4 48" long 1×5/4 legs, 6 22½" 1×1 pieces, and 6 30" 1×1 pieces. First I cut the board with the straighter grain into a 4 foot length and a 2 foot length, using my miter box. I was glad I had made it so it was the same height as my bench, and a couple sawhorses and some pine scraps made a table for the other side of the saw.

Wood Creative arts Wood stain Hardwood Workbench


Then I cut the 2 foot length down to 22½ inches, and set up my bandsaw to rip 5/4 pieces off the boards. As both boards were nearly flat-sawn, this gives me quarter-sawn pieces if I orient them correctly.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Floor Gas


Then I cut a 30 inch length from the wider board, and ripped it into 6 1â…›"x1" pieces. I'll aim to keep them as close to 1" square after planing them smooth.

Wood Hardwood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Outdoor furniture Wood stain


That was enough for this morning. Next session I'll get busy with a hand-plane and make some nice stock to work with.
Nice work Dave, and yet once again someone has proven the old adage to be true: You can NEVER have enough clamps!
 

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#163 ·
Second door finished, more stock prep

I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.

Triangle Shelf Rectangle Wood Shelving


The it was time to work more on the frame pieces for the carcasse.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


I'm really liking the transitional I got in the HPOYD Secret Santa. It's a lot lighter than my LN #5, which means I don't mind taking a lighter cut and having to make a few extra passes. But after just a short time working, it started catching shavings between the blade and the chip-breaker, so it was time for a sharpening.

First I tuned up the leading edge of the chip-breaker. It wasn't as smooth as it could be on the back, so I smoothed that with a slip. Then I straightened the front edge that rests against the blade. It's better, but not yet perfect.

Then it was time to sharpen the blade. After a few passes on my stone, I noticed this pattern on the blade.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive tire Grey


It's sharpening the edges, but not the middle. Bother. My stone is dished.

Well, there's more than one way to skin a cat, so I turned the blade 90 degrees and ran it back and forth along the high sides of the stone. Didn't get it flattened, but it's less dished than it was, and I quickly got the double-bevel on the blade turned into a single bevel. Then onto the finer stone. It's a little dished too, so I kept sharpening the blade cross-wise, so I didn't make a (more) cambered blade.

Rectangle Wood Grey Floor Flooring


Popped that back in the plane, spent a little while fiddling with it (first try I had the chip-breaker set too close to the edge), and then started getting nice shavings either direction on the ash, which is good enough to work with.

But rather than getting a bunch of stock prepped, I only got three of the four uprights done this morning. Oh well. Guess I'll have to head back to the shop later.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Tool Plywood
 

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#164 ·
Second door finished, more stock prep

I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.

Triangle Shelf Rectangle Wood Shelving


The it was time to work more on the frame pieces for the carcasse.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


I'm really liking the transitional I got in the HPOYD Secret Santa. It's a lot lighter than my LN #5, which means I don't mind taking a lighter cut and having to make a few extra passes. But after just a short time working, it started catching shavings between the blade and the chip-breaker, so it was time for a sharpening.

First I tuned up the leading edge of the chip-breaker. It wasn't as smooth as it could be on the back, so I smoothed that with a slip. Then I straightened the front edge that rests against the blade. It's better, but not yet perfect.

Then it was time to sharpen the blade. After a few passes on my stone, I noticed this pattern on the blade.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive tire Grey


It's sharpening the edges, but not the middle. Bother. My stone is dished.

Well, there's more than one way to skin a cat, so I turned the blade 90 degrees and ran it back and forth along the high sides of the stone. Didn't get it flattened, but it's less dished than it was, and I quickly got the double-bevel on the blade turned into a single bevel. Then onto the finer stone. It's a little dished too, so I kept sharpening the blade cross-wise, so I didn't make a (more) cambered blade.

Rectangle Wood Grey Floor Flooring


Popped that back in the plane, spent a little while fiddling with it (first try I had the chip-breaker set too close to the edge), and then started getting nice shavings either direction on the ash, which is good enough to work with.

But rather than getting a bunch of stock prepped, I only got three of the four uprights done this morning. Oh well. Guess I'll have to head back to the shop later.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Tool Plywood
That door panel looks good Dave. I might have missed it, but did you install the woven slats within a grove? Just thinking for strength, then a pin nail to keep them from shifting.
 

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#175 ·
Top prep and more legs

I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.

First I needed to clean up the edges, so I clamped the board in the face vise and jointed the edge smooth and square.

Brown Table Rectangle Wood Flooring


Then I set up the table-saw as high as it would go, with the fence 1/16" under 1/2" from the blade (trying to account for the kerf).

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Material property Hardwood


After running the board across the table saw twice, I had something like this:

Automotive tire Wood Tread Composite material Tire


So I got out the panel saw, and finished the job.

Wood Grey Beige Pattern Artifact


After some planing, it looks like these "too gnarly to be legs" boards are going to make a pretty top. I've got more work to do, since the ash curved a bit when I sawed it in half. But I got started, at least.

Wood Creative arts Camera Artifact Natural material


And there's some pretty in there. My sweetie approves of it.

Building Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain


With about a half hour to go until lunch I was looking for something easier, so I finished squaring up and smoothing the last two legs (making a total of five - a spare might come in handy). But I forgot to take a picture of those. Oh well. Mañana.
 

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#176 ·
Top prep and more legs

I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.

First I needed to clean up the edges, so I clamped the board in the face vise and jointed the edge smooth and square.

Brown Table Rectangle Wood Flooring


Then I set up the table-saw as high as it would go, with the fence 1/16" under 1/2" from the blade (trying to account for the kerf).

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Material property Hardwood


After running the board across the table saw twice, I had something like this:

Automotive tire Wood Tread Composite material Tire


So I got out the panel saw, and finished the job.

Wood Grey Beige Pattern Artifact


After some planing, it looks like these "too gnarly to be legs" boards are going to make a pretty top. I've got more work to do, since the ash curved a bit when I sawed it in half. But I got started, at least.

Wood Creative arts Camera Artifact Natural material


And there's some pretty in there. My sweetie approves of it.

Building Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain


With about a half hour to go until lunch I was looking for something easier, so I finished squaring up and smoothing the last two legs (making a total of five - a spare might come in handy). But I forgot to take a picture of those. Oh well. Mañana.
So far, so good.
Regarding the board that curved a but after being sawed in half, that's typical. I resawed a board once that was so case hardened, it snapped apart before I got all the way through with such a loud snap that I thought I broke the bandsaw blade. Scared the crap out of me.
The joy's of woodworking.
 

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#181 ·
Slats & top

More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.

Wood Floor Flooring Composite material Gas


With the pieces cut, I resawed most of the way through the piece for the top with the table saw again, then hand-sawed it apart using a panel saw. Haven't cleaned those pieces up yet, so no picture.

The straight-grained chunk got both edges planed flat by hand, then sliced into 17 3/8 thick pieces on the bandsaw.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rotary tool Handheld power drill


Wood Floor Flooring Brick Rectangle


Then each piece went in the face vise and got its edge (the previous face of the board) planed smooth-ish.

Wood Automotive tire Tread Tire Gas


I say smooth-ish because I did four passes down each slat with the plane. I tried to get the direction right, but there was a bit of reversing grain in nearly every board, so I ended up with a few rough spots.

Brown Wood Trunk Hardwood Wood stain


My plan is that I'll glue these in between the front and back pieces of the frame into a mostly-flat layer, then I'll take a sander to them (wish I had a drum sander, but alas) and flatten things out enough that a laundry basket will slide easily along them.

But first I need to plane the faces (which won't really be seen) more flat, as there are some waves in them from sawing on the bandsaw. Again, four or five passes will clean most of them up, but there's some reversing grain, and a few of them warped enough that they won't stay put against the planing stop, so I called it a day. Gotta have something to do tomorrow, right?
 

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#182 ·
Slats & top

More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.

Wood Floor Flooring Composite material Gas


With the pieces cut, I resawed most of the way through the piece for the top with the table saw again, then hand-sawed it apart using a panel saw. Haven't cleaned those pieces up yet, so no picture.

The straight-grained chunk got both edges planed flat by hand, then sliced into 17 3/8 thick pieces on the bandsaw.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Rotary tool Handheld power drill


Wood Floor Flooring Brick Rectangle


Then each piece went in the face vise and got its edge (the previous face of the board) planed smooth-ish.

Wood Automotive tire Tread Tire Gas


I say smooth-ish because I did four passes down each slat with the plane. I tried to get the direction right, but there was a bit of reversing grain in nearly every board, so I ended up with a few rough spots.

Brown Wood Trunk Hardwood Wood stain


My plan is that I'll glue these in between the front and back pieces of the frame into a mostly-flat layer, then I'll take a sander to them (wish I had a drum sander, but alas) and flatten things out enough that a laundry basket will slide easily along them.

But first I need to plane the faces (which won't really be seen) more flat, as there are some waves in them from sawing on the bandsaw. Again, four or five passes will clean most of them up, but there's some reversing grain, and a few of them warped enough that they won't stay put against the planing stop, so I called it a day. Gotta have something to do tomorrow, right?
Sounds like a fun day in the shop.
In the last picture, it looks like it was planed against the grain, that so? Or, is this one of those boards that has grain going both ways, sort of up hill from both ends towards the middle?
 

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#188 ·
Starting the shelves

I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.

If you remember way back when I started this project, I think I showed a drawing of how it would go together. Here it is again in case you don't remember.

Handwriting Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern


Each (plastic) laundry basket will sit on a shelf, which will be held by a pair of horizontal cross bars, which will have tenons on the ends, which will fit into a matching mortise on the uprights. The cross-bars will also carry the doors. I decided that I would make these mortises 1/4 inch wide, by 1/2 inch high, centered on the cross bar. And they'll be 1/2 inch long. So I set up the table saw to make 1/4" deep cuts, with the fence 1/2" from the far side of the blade. And I cut some tenons.

Brown Wood Rectangle Road surface Beige


They were more like 3/8 rather than 1/4, so I got out my dovetail saw and fine-tuned them, then cleaned them up with a Clifton 3110 shoulder plane (which I bought just for this project - I'm going to have a lot of tenons that need cleaning up, right?).

Tenons sorted, I marked out where the slats would fit into the cross-bars. They'll be spaced so seven of them fill the just under 21 inches of the cross bar. Seven is easy because I can just split things in half a few times, and I'm done.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Now I needed a jig to make holes for the mortises 1/4 from the top edge of the cross-bar. I took a scrap of ash and drilled a hole, then used the band-saw to cut out a notch such that the edge of the hole is 1/4 inch from the edge of the notch. I'll use that to drill the pilot holes for the mortises, and then square them off with a chisel. Should be pretty easy to keep things accurate that way.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Brickwork


Wood Beige Handwriting Rectangle Wall


And that's about it for today. It's time to run to the Friday afternoon farmers market soon, and then when I get home it'll be time to cook dinner. More next time, including gang-cutting the tenons on the slats, and drilling holes for some mortises.
 

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#189 ·
Starting the shelves

I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.

If you remember way back when I started this project, I think I showed a drawing of how it would go together. Here it is again in case you don't remember.

Handwriting Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern


Each (plastic) laundry basket will sit on a shelf, which will be held by a pair of horizontal cross bars, which will have tenons on the ends, which will fit into a matching mortise on the uprights. The cross-bars will also carry the doors. I decided that I would make these mortises 1/4 inch wide, by 1/2 inch high, centered on the cross bar. And they'll be 1/2 inch long. So I set up the table saw to make 1/4" deep cuts, with the fence 1/2" from the far side of the blade. And I cut some tenons.

Brown Wood Rectangle Road surface Beige


They were more like 3/8 rather than 1/4, so I got out my dovetail saw and fine-tuned them, then cleaned them up with a Clifton 3110 shoulder plane (which I bought just for this project - I'm going to have a lot of tenons that need cleaning up, right?).

Tenons sorted, I marked out where the slats would fit into the cross-bars. They'll be spaced so seven of them fill the just under 21 inches of the cross bar. Seven is easy because I can just split things in half a few times, and I'm done.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Now I needed a jig to make holes for the mortises 1/4 from the top edge of the cross-bar. I took a scrap of ash and drilled a hole, then used the band-saw to cut out a notch such that the edge of the hole is 1/4 inch from the edge of the notch. I'll use that to drill the pilot holes for the mortises, and then square them off with a chisel. Should be pretty easy to keep things accurate that way.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Brickwork


Wood Beige Handwriting Rectangle Wall


And that's about it for today. It's time to run to the Friday afternoon farmers market soon, and then when I get home it'll be time to cook dinner. More next time, including gang-cutting the tenons on the slats, and drilling holes for some mortises.
Dave, I like the memory test with the drawing posted again, spot on. Seems like anymore I need to leave a trail of crumbs when I leave the house.
The hamper is coming along nicely, good thought process you've used in this design while building project.
 

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#193 ·
Chopping and paring

Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


Between the chopping, the prying, and then paring the sides of the tenons, the socket chisel kept coming apart and driving me nuts. I ordered a new 1/4" chisel, and we'll see if I like that better. If not, I might end up grinding a piece of O-1 into shape and making my own.

Tomorrow I'll get mortises and tenons cut for the second shelf (they're all 1/4" square, which makes the 1/4" chisel get a lot of use), and maybe glue together the two shelves.
 

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#194 ·
Chopping and paring

Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


Between the chopping, the prying, and then paring the sides of the tenons, the socket chisel kept coming apart and driving me nuts. I ordered a new 1/4" chisel, and we'll see if I like that better. If not, I might end up grinding a piece of O-1 into shape and making my own.

Tomorrow I'll get mortises and tenons cut for the second shelf (they're all 1/4" square, which makes the 1/4" chisel get a lot of use), and maybe glue together the two shelves.
That's a lot of small mortise to cut Dave, it looks like you did well. Is that chisel one of the new ones you received? If so that's not good.
 

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#201 ·
More mortises & tenons

Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.

For each of the cross-bars that will hold a shelf, I started by cutting the length right, then rough-cutting the tenon with the table saw.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Tool


I use a shoulder plane to trim the tenon down to size. I'm aiming for 1/4" x 5/8", though the latter could go as small as 1/2" without problems.

Watch Calipers Analog watch Plant Wood


Once the quarter inch dimension is done, I pare off the other dimension with my quarter-inch wide chisel, trying to keep the tenon more or less centered on the piece.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Composite material Water


And that's close enough.

Wood Finger Measuring instrument Clock Circle


Then I look at the sides of the bar, and decide which will be the top, and which will be the inside. I use the first bar I made as a template for marking everything off.

Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part


First mark where the edge of my jig will go for the holes.

Ruler Finger Wood Font Office ruler


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


Then mark a line 1/4" from the top with a marking gauge.

Wood Nail Wood stain Hardwood Plank


And darken it with a pencil.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Then drill the holes (yeah, I know, there's a hole in that picture above. Oops!), aligning the jig with the line I drew, but keeping the line visible.

Wood Beige Floor Flooring Wood stain


And then drilling the hole.

Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Jewellery


After that I set the 1/4" chisel on each edge of the drilled hole, and give it three taps with the mallet, which takes it to the bottom of the hole. I leave the waste in the bottom of the hole (I aimed for 1/2" deep with my depth guide on the drill bit) until I've chopped all four sides of all seven holes in the cross-piece, then I remove the cross-piece from the vise, and knock out the waste.

Then I take a straight 6mm gouge and clean out any remaining bits of waste. Gravity helps remove the waste from the mortise.

Next up, I'll walk through the tenons.
 

Attachments

#202 ·
More mortises & tenons

Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.

For each of the cross-bars that will hold a shelf, I started by cutting the length right, then rough-cutting the tenon with the table saw.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Tool


I use a shoulder plane to trim the tenon down to size. I'm aiming for 1/4" x 5/8", though the latter could go as small as 1/2" without problems.

Watch Calipers Analog watch Plant Wood


Once the quarter inch dimension is done, I pare off the other dimension with my quarter-inch wide chisel, trying to keep the tenon more or less centered on the piece.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Composite material Water


And that's close enough.

Wood Finger Measuring instrument Clock Circle


Then I look at the sides of the bar, and decide which will be the top, and which will be the inside. I use the first bar I made as a template for marking everything off.

Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part


First mark where the edge of my jig will go for the holes.

Ruler Finger Wood Font Office ruler


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Flooring


Then mark a line 1/4" from the top with a marking gauge.

Wood Nail Wood stain Hardwood Plank


And darken it with a pencil.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Then drill the holes (yeah, I know, there's a hole in that picture above. Oops!), aligning the jig with the line I drew, but keeping the line visible.

Wood Beige Floor Flooring Wood stain


And then drilling the hole.

Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Jewellery


After that I set the 1/4" chisel on each edge of the drilled hole, and give it three taps with the mallet, which takes it to the bottom of the hole. I leave the waste in the bottom of the hole (I aimed for 1/2" deep with my depth guide on the drill bit) until I've chopped all four sides of all seven holes in the cross-piece, then I remove the cross-piece from the vise, and knock out the waste.

Then I take a straight 6mm gouge and clean out any remaining bits of waste. Gravity helps remove the waste from the mortise.

Next up, I'll walk through the tenons.
Have you ever thought about using a 1/4" hollow chisel from a mortise machine to drive in after drilling the quarter inch hole? Just a thought.
 

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#209 ·
Cleaning up tenons

I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:

Ruler Rectangle Office ruler Wood Tool


I start by making a stop-cut (but with a chisel) in the sides of the tenon so I won't split past what should be the shoulder.

Wood Finger Hardwood Thumb Wood stain


Then I narrow the tenon so it's 1/4" wide by paring down both sides. I'm continually checking the width against the width of the chisel, which was used to make the mortises.

Wood Tool Finger Material property Hardwood


With the width of the tenon correct, it's time to correct its height. I don't need stop-cuts here, as I've already got a shoulder, and I can refine it later by paring the end-grain. The important thing is getting the top of the tenon 1/4" from the top edge of the slat. Luckily, I have a 1/4" measure right there in my hand!

Wood Gas Building material Metal Hardwood


With the top edge of the tenon correct, I measure the height of it, and trim the bottom edge.

Wood Gas Hardwood Flooring Natural material


And then it's just a matter of test-fitting it in the matching mortise. I can generally see which side is off and adjust by paring a little. After the two ends of the slat are done, I label them both with pencil so I don't accidentally reverse a slat or swap two of them.

Wood Wood stain Fluid Natural material Hardwood


With all 28 mortises and tenons done for the slats, I can glue up the two shelves. I'm going to need to think a little about how to clamp them to ensure they stay square, but worst case, I'll put a couple screws into the bench top to index things. But first I have to help clean the house a bit, since we're having some neighbors over for dinner this evening, and apparently someone has tracked a bunch of wood chips into the house.
 

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#210 ·
Cleaning up tenons

I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:

Ruler Rectangle Office ruler Wood Tool


I start by making a stop-cut (but with a chisel) in the sides of the tenon so I won't split past what should be the shoulder.

Wood Finger Hardwood Thumb Wood stain


Then I narrow the tenon so it's 1/4" wide by paring down both sides. I'm continually checking the width against the width of the chisel, which was used to make the mortises.

Wood Tool Finger Material property Hardwood


With the width of the tenon correct, it's time to correct its height. I don't need stop-cuts here, as I've already got a shoulder, and I can refine it later by paring the end-grain. The important thing is getting the top of the tenon 1/4" from the top edge of the slat. Luckily, I have a 1/4" measure right there in my hand!

Wood Gas Building material Metal Hardwood


With the top edge of the tenon correct, I measure the height of it, and trim the bottom edge.

Wood Gas Hardwood Flooring Natural material


And then it's just a matter of test-fitting it in the matching mortise. I can generally see which side is off and adjust by paring a little. After the two ends of the slat are done, I label them both with pencil so I don't accidentally reverse a slat or swap two of them.

Wood Wood stain Fluid Natural material Hardwood


With all 28 mortises and tenons done for the slats, I can glue up the two shelves. I'm going to need to think a little about how to clamp them to ensure they stay square, but worst case, I'll put a couple screws into the bench top to index things. But first I have to help clean the house a bit, since we're having some neighbors over for dinner this evening, and apparently someone has tracked a bunch of wood chips into the house.
Dave, I know there's some pleasure in doing it the hard way but I get anxious just thinking about this trip. My table saw and or router would have been pretty busy.
I do however applaud your tenacity and skill
 

Attachments

#222 ·
Gluing the shelves

Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.

Stairs Grille Wood Rectangle Floor


Also had to be careful not to over-tighten the clamps and bow the slats. Basically I did over-tighten them, then backed off until the slat straightened out, then checked for square and tapped things to make the adjustment. I sure do like having a bunch of 3 foot long clamps.
 

Attachments

#223 ·
Gluing the shelves

Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.

Stairs Grille Wood Rectangle Floor


Also had to be careful not to over-tighten the clamps and bow the slats. Basically I did over-tighten them, then backed off until the slat straightened out, then checked for square and tapped things to make the adjustment. I sure do like having a bunch of 3 foot long clamps.
So far so good eh Dave. I'll be watching this.
 

Attachments

#230 ·
Shelf decorations

The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.

Helmet Automotive tire Saw Sports gear Bumper


The doors have fairly simple-looking frames, so I figured I could go a little more ornate with the shelf fronts.

Window Rectangle Wood Home door Brick


I started by using a forstner bit to put a circle in the middle of each front. And I figured I'd do thumbnails, as they're relatively simple.

Wood Natural material Hardwood Plank Automotive tire


Once I'd cut the first couple (using a pfeil 7/14 gouge), I laid out the rest and chopped the stop-cuts.

Rectangle Wood Table Shelf Flooring


I carved the rest, mostly with the gouge and mallet (this is ash, after all), and then cleaning up by hand.

Building Wood Brickwork Brick Art


After a little break to sharpen, the second shelf-front went pretty quick, since I had already practiced on the first.

Building Wood Flooring Art Facade


And then I may need to cut one more bar that size to fit above the upper door, below the top. Not certain if I'll actually use it or not, but since I'm already busy carving, I figure I might as well.

In the process, I inadvertently gave a good example of what happens if you don't get one of your stop cuts deep enough.

Wood Art Sculpture Building material Artifact
 

Attachments

#231 ·
Shelf decorations

The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.

Helmet Automotive tire Saw Sports gear Bumper


The doors have fairly simple-looking frames, so I figured I could go a little more ornate with the shelf fronts.

Window Rectangle Wood Home door Brick


I started by using a forstner bit to put a circle in the middle of each front. And I figured I'd do thumbnails, as they're relatively simple.

Wood Natural material Hardwood Plank Automotive tire


Once I'd cut the first couple (using a pfeil 7/14 gouge), I laid out the rest and chopped the stop-cuts.

Rectangle Wood Table Shelf Flooring


I carved the rest, mostly with the gouge and mallet (this is ash, after all), and then cleaning up by hand.

Building Wood Brickwork Brick Art


After a little break to sharpen, the second shelf-front went pretty quick, since I had already practiced on the first.

Building Wood Flooring Art Facade


And then I may need to cut one more bar that size to fit above the upper door, below the top. Not certain if I'll actually use it or not, but since I'm already busy carving, I figure I might as well.

In the process, I inadvertently gave a good example of what happens if you don't get one of your stop cuts deep enough.

Wood Art Sculpture Building material Artifact
Looks pretty good Dave. A shame about the chip out, still have the piece to glue it in?
If I were to try that on first attempt it would be one loooooong thumbnail.
 

Attachments

#238 ·
Front uprights

Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!

I started by picking a profile that looked right to me. It's not my widest bead in the 66, but it's the second widest.

Wood Creative arts Art Hardwood Metal


Then I set the fence so it looked pretty darn close to centered on the leg I'm working on. I double checked by indexing off both sides of the leg and making sure the bead ended up in the same place. This is important because the beading tool often works better one direction than the other, but I've found that I get the best results working both ways.

So I started from one end and made a couple passes.

Wood Tool Machine tool Workbench Engineering


Then came to the other end and made a couple passes.

Wood Tool Machine tool Workbench Engineering


I switched back and forth until I had pretty good grooves in the wood, and then I started doing a half-dozen passes from each direction, using a paint brush to sweep out the shavings every time I turned around.

After a while, I was getting close.

Brown Wood Composite material Building material Rectangle


When this happens, you'll often find that some spots are done (and have a rounded top in the middle) while others still show a flat on the bead. If the blade is set so the top of the cut is even with the base of the tool, you've got a built-in depth-stop and all is well. Usually I'm a bit off, so I'll end up concentrating on the spots that still show a flat top. The sound of the cut also changes when you finish the profile.

Brown Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Nice, but not quite done.

I dug through my gouges, and found one with about the same width and curve as the bead I had just cut. It turned out to be an Ashley Iles 9/10 gouge.

Wood Handwriting Font Cork Wood stain


I then marked off lines every two inches on the bead, and made two stab-cuts with the gouge (at about a 60 degree angle, aiming to meet right under the line) with the mallet.

Musical instrument Wood Office supplies Flooring Hardwood


With these cuts, if you can get all the way to the bottom of the quirks along the side of the bead, that will be best.

Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Composite material Tints and shades


Then I made cuts by hand, at about a 45 degree angle, nibbling a bit off the end of each side, and cleaning up the corners.

Wood Gas Cylinder Plank Hardwood


That looked okay to me.

Brown Wood Plank Lumber Composite material


Lather, rinse, repeat down the leg, and I've got a string of frankfurters or something. I think it'll look good on the legs and won't collect too much dust.

Wood Floor Flooring Plank Hardwood


Did the second one, and called it a morning. Even with the mini-split running in the shop, I was pretty sweaty. Time to rehydrate and get some lunch. Maybe I'll turn a couple feet this afternoon.
 

Attachments

#239 ·
Front uprights

Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!

I started by picking a profile that looked right to me. It's not my widest bead in the 66, but it's the second widest.

Wood Creative arts Art Hardwood Metal


Then I set the fence so it looked pretty darn close to centered on the leg I'm working on. I double checked by indexing off both sides of the leg and making sure the bead ended up in the same place. This is important because the beading tool often works better one direction than the other, but I've found that I get the best results working both ways.

So I started from one end and made a couple passes.

Wood Tool Machine tool Workbench Engineering


Then came to the other end and made a couple passes.

Wood Tool Machine tool Workbench Engineering


I switched back and forth until I had pretty good grooves in the wood, and then I started doing a half-dozen passes from each direction, using a paint brush to sweep out the shavings every time I turned around.

After a while, I was getting close.

Brown Wood Composite material Building material Rectangle


When this happens, you'll often find that some spots are done (and have a rounded top in the middle) while others still show a flat on the bead. If the blade is set so the top of the cut is even with the base of the tool, you've got a built-in depth-stop and all is well. Usually I'm a bit off, so I'll end up concentrating on the spots that still show a flat top. The sound of the cut also changes when you finish the profile.

Brown Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Nice, but not quite done.

I dug through my gouges, and found one with about the same width and curve as the bead I had just cut. It turned out to be an Ashley Iles 9/10 gouge.

Wood Handwriting Font Cork Wood stain


I then marked off lines every two inches on the bead, and made two stab-cuts with the gouge (at about a 60 degree angle, aiming to meet right under the line) with the mallet.

Musical instrument Wood Office supplies Flooring Hardwood


With these cuts, if you can get all the way to the bottom of the quirks along the side of the bead, that will be best.

Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Composite material Tints and shades


Then I made cuts by hand, at about a 45 degree angle, nibbling a bit off the end of each side, and cleaning up the corners.

Wood Gas Cylinder Plank Hardwood


That looked okay to me.

Brown Wood Plank Lumber Composite material


Lather, rinse, repeat down the leg, and I've got a string of frankfurters or something. I think it'll look good on the legs and won't collect too much dust.

Wood Floor Flooring Plank Hardwood


Did the second one, and called it a morning. Even with the mini-split running in the shop, I was pretty sweaty. Time to rehydrate and get some lunch. Maybe I'll turn a couple feet this afternoon.
Nice work.
I remember the first time I learned about scratch stocks, was reading a woodworking magazine. I thought - how simple, yet so cool. Any shape can be created by simply filing the desired profile on any old piece of tool steel - like old hand saw blades, and mounting it in a home made fence device.
Nice to use, no noise, and definitely makes a one of a kind profile, unique to the user. Then to further enhance the piece with the gouge, great work.
 

Attachments

#243 ·
Top

Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).

Yesterday, my new DeWalt 735 planer arrived and I got it set up this morning and cleaned up all those boards (I generally have tried to do this by hand in the past, but a couple of these boards bowed so much, I didn't even end up with 1/4 of thickness after flattening them, so hiring a tailed apprentice was in order).

After processing the stack of boards, and picking out the four I liked most for the top of my laundry hamper, I glued them together to make a 20-some by 30-some inch piece. I'll hand flatten this, and I may back it with a piece of 1/4" plywood, but this is what it'll look like (minus the clamps and battens). I think I like it!

Wood Rectangle Shelf Plank Tire
 

Attachments

#244 ·
Top

Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).

Yesterday, my new DeWalt 735 planer arrived and I got it set up this morning and cleaned up all those boards (I generally have tried to do this by hand in the past, but a couple of these boards bowed so much, I didn't even end up with 1/4 of thickness after flattening them, so hiring a tailed apprentice was in order).

After processing the stack of boards, and picking out the four I liked most for the top of my laundry hamper, I glued them together to make a 20-some by 30-some inch piece. I'll hand flatten this, and I may back it with a piece of 1/4" plywood, but this is what it'll look like (minus the clamps and battens). I think I like it!

Wood Rectangle Shelf Plank Tire
Very Nic and interesting grain patterns.
 

Attachments

#262 ·
Breadboard ends on top

Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.

But I've been making some progress on the top for the laundry hamper. The boards I glued up wouldn't have quite been long enough, and there were some checks, so I decided to put breadboard ends on them. I resawed another piece of ash to two 3/4 inch thick pieces, and cut a 1/4" groove in the edges of each board.

Voilá, breadboard ends!

Table Rectangle Wood Wood stain Floor


I'll trim the edge to final width once I've done my first dry-fit of the carcass, and then I'll trim both breadboard ends an equal amount so things fit. I'll probably plane the ends down a bit so they have some sort of profile rather than just being flat, but we'll see what happens.
 

Attachments

#263 ·
Breadboard ends on top

Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.

But I've been making some progress on the top for the laundry hamper. The boards I glued up wouldn't have quite been long enough, and there were some checks, so I decided to put breadboard ends on them. I resawed another piece of ash to two 3/4 inch thick pieces, and cut a 1/4" groove in the edges of each board.

Voilá, breadboard ends!

Table Rectangle Wood Wood stain Floor


I'll trim the edge to final width once I've done my first dry-fit of the carcass, and then I'll trim both breadboard ends an equal amount so things fit. I'll probably plane the ends down a bit so they have some sort of profile rather than just being flat, but we'll see what happens.
Breadboard ends look great and like they were intended from the start.
 

Attachments

#272 ·
Tenons and mortises

Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.

I managed to get all the tenons cut on the horizontal pieces which run left to right. That's the shelf assemblies and a top piece in the front, plus a top and bottom piece for the rear. The tenons are all ÂĽxÂľ inch, since I'll be using my quarter inch chisel for mortising.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Today I finally started chopping mortises. Got two done on each front upright so that the top piece and the upper shelf are ready.

Brown Wood Rectangle Line Wood stain


I'm realizing I'm going to have some "fun" with the glue-up, and I'm not sure whether pre-assembling the shelves will make things easier or harder, but I'll get there. And I've got a bunch more mortises to chop. Ten more for the left-right horizontal pieces, and a dozen mortises and tenons to cut for the pieces which will run front-back. Plus however I decide to attach the top, which I still need to figure out (though I'm leaning towards just doweling it in place).
 

Attachments

#273 ·
Tenons and mortises

Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.

I managed to get all the tenons cut on the horizontal pieces which run left to right. That's the shelf assemblies and a top piece in the front, plus a top and bottom piece for the rear. The tenons are all ÂĽxÂľ inch, since I'll be using my quarter inch chisel for mortising.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Today I finally started chopping mortises. Got two done on each front upright so that the top piece and the upper shelf are ready.

Brown Wood Rectangle Line Wood stain


I'm realizing I'm going to have some "fun" with the glue-up, and I'm not sure whether pre-assembling the shelves will make things easier or harder, but I'll get there. And I've got a bunch more mortises to chop. Ten more for the left-right horizontal pieces, and a dozen mortises and tenons to cut for the pieces which will run front-back. Plus however I decide to attach the top, which I still need to figure out (though I'm leaning towards just doweling it in place).
I agree Dave, the glue up may be a tad tricky but I'm sure a little adjustment would be necessary in any hand tool making. Have to give you a lot of credit with your patience.
 

Attachments

#276 ·
More mortises

Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!

Wood Natural material Rectangle Wood stain Plank


No idea how I got that so wrong, but I'll cut a scrap of wood to fill that hole before I close up the shop for the day, and it'll be good as new tomorrow.

And before the big reveal for the day, here's a quick sequence showing how I chop mortises.

First, mark all four edges of the mortise. I tend to do the narrow sides first with pencil, then the wide sides with a chisel (which might be too long, as it is in this case), then the narrow sides with the mortise chisel.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Rectangle


Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Rectangle


Then I start chopping.

Wood Hardwood Composite material Wood stain Metal


I clean the chips out whenever I feel like I need to see what I'm doing.

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Material property


Then when I hit the far end, I turn around and chop back.

Brown Table Wood Flooring Floor


These mortises were deep enough (about ½ inch) that I had to make three passes to get them to full depth.

Wood Rectangle Road surface Beige Grey


The one time I tried to do it in two passes, I chopped through the Âľ inch thick board and had to repair that. No photo of that, sorry.

And that's it! Here's where the hamper is today. Tomorrow I'll cut the tenons on the six pieces that will run front-to-back on the sides and start cutting the mortises for them. I also will need to plan grooves for the ÂĽ inch Baltic birch ply that'll enclose the sides and figure out how I'm going to attach the top.

Blue Wood Floor Table Hardwood
 

Attachments

#277 ·
More mortises

Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!

Wood Natural material Rectangle Wood stain Plank


No idea how I got that so wrong, but I'll cut a scrap of wood to fill that hole before I close up the shop for the day, and it'll be good as new tomorrow.

And before the big reveal for the day, here's a quick sequence showing how I chop mortises.

First, mark all four edges of the mortise. I tend to do the narrow sides first with pencil, then the wide sides with a chisel (which might be too long, as it is in this case), then the narrow sides with the mortise chisel.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Rectangle


Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Rectangle


Then I start chopping.

Wood Hardwood Composite material Wood stain Metal


I clean the chips out whenever I feel like I need to see what I'm doing.

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Material property


Then when I hit the far end, I turn around and chop back.

Brown Table Wood Flooring Floor


These mortises were deep enough (about ½ inch) that I had to make three passes to get them to full depth.

Wood Rectangle Road surface Beige Grey


The one time I tried to do it in two passes, I chopped through the Âľ inch thick board and had to repair that. No photo of that, sorry.

And that's it! Here's where the hamper is today. Tomorrow I'll cut the tenons on the six pieces that will run front-to-back on the sides and start cutting the mortises for them. I also will need to plan grooves for the ÂĽ inch Baltic birch ply that'll enclose the sides and figure out how I'm going to attach the top.

Blue Wood Floor Table Hardwood
Looking good so far.
 

Attachments

#281 ·
First side glued up

Not been getting much done, but a little at a time. I finished chopping all the mortises yesterday, and this morning got out the Luban 043 to cut some rabbets.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


These are to hold a piece of 6mm birch plywood that will make up the side panel of the hamper.

Then I glued things up. The panel is just floating in the rabbets. I'll put glazing points or brads into hold it in place.

Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Building material


The panel is 29â…› by 40-something.
 

Attachments

#282 ·
First side glued up

Not been getting much done, but a little at a time. I finished chopping all the mortises yesterday, and this morning got out the Luban 043 to cut some rabbets.

Brown Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring


These are to hold a piece of 6mm birch plywood that will make up the side panel of the hamper.

Then I glued things up. The panel is just floating in the rabbets. I'll put glazing points or brads into hold it in place.

Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Building material


The panel is 29â…› by 40-something.
Coming along nicely.
 

Attachments

#284 ·
Everything oiled

I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.

The top:

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor


The sticks and shelves:

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Outdoor furniture


And the sides:

Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Material property


Wood Rectangle Beige Hardwood Flooring


I'll give them a few days to cure while I mark the holes for the hinges and closers for the doors and do any fine-tuning that needs to happen before I put all the pieces together.

I think I'm going with 18" brass piano hinges for the doors. It'll be overkill, but I figure that's easier than having to replace a door later because I set a basket of laundry on an open door and broke the hinges.
 

Attachments

#285 ·
Everything oiled

I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.

The top:

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor


The sticks and shelves:

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Outdoor furniture


And the sides:

Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Material property


Wood Rectangle Beige Hardwood Flooring


I'll give them a few days to cure while I mark the holes for the hinges and closers for the doors and do any fine-tuning that needs to happen before I put all the pieces together.

I think I'm going with 18" brass piano hinges for the doors. It'll be overkill, but I figure that's easier than having to replace a door later because I set a basket of laundry on an open door and broke the hinges.
That's going to be very nice! You make it look easy.
 

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