My Shop #2: Table Saw Fence

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Blog entry by DannyBoy posted 10-29-2009 10:02 PM 3448 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Table Saw Part 2 of My Shop series Part 3: Band Saw Blues »

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I’d like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you’ll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you’ll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.


For those who don’t want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you’re done. Easy.


(I’ve got a lot of pics, but I’ll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw’s cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS’s blue tape and the mounting bracket’s a reference mark.

Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw’s front edge (don’t cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence “T” without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32” or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence “T” referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table’s top. You don’t want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don’t have to do too much counter sinking.
Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you’ve done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual’s steps on tuning the fence.

Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn’t really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!


-- He said wood...

5 comments so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27248 posts in 5274 days

#1 posted 10-29-2009 10:35 PM

Danny, this should make a huge difference in the performance of your saw. This is a nice blog and you explained the process pretty well.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View a1Jim's profile


118322 posts in 5030 days

#2 posted 10-29-2009 11:31 PM

Good Job Danny you will get years of sevice from a super upgrade.Well done blog.


View Beginningwoodworker's profile


13345 posts in 5125 days

#3 posted 02-09-2010 01:10 AM

Nice job, Danny.

View RussellAP's profile


3105 posts in 3739 days

#4 posted 02-23-2012 01:10 AM

Love that saw. I used to have one, then I got a divorce and it was gone. I’m looking for another and I hope to be able to have that Delta fence, the Craftsman fence while sturdy tends to be a bit off.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Steveg1's profile


10 posts in 3774 days

#5 posted 03-11-2012 12:15 PM

Thanks for your help Danny. I just set up my fence. It seemed that there wouldn’t be enough room to drill a hole in the fence and still have enough metal to hold the bolt. That wasn’t true. My table face is 1.5 inches and the front rail was installed .75 inches down from the top. This worked fine.

-- Steve, Dewitt NY, Retired and ready to make more sawdust.

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