Wow do I ever SUCK at face jointing! Giant wedgies!

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Forum topic by spaids posted 10-31-2008 06:46 PM 3604 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View spaids's profile


699 posts in 3959 days

10-31-2008 06:46 PM

I feel pretty dumb for the amount of trouble I’m having trying to learn to use my 6” Ridgid jointer.
I will try to figure out which side is cupped down so that the board will have points of contact with the infeed table at the ends of the board. (if the board isn’t also twisted and looking like a potato chip). I’ll then start taking my several passes across the knives and I get weird results. The board slowly cuts more and more at the outfeed side as I push it through. I end up with a wide wedge. The board will be much thinner on the outfeed side than the infeed side and it seems like i can mill it down to nothing before it cuts the full length of the board. Eventually its gets there and I can spend a long time passing it through the planer until the high back side gets milled down to make a flat board.

Any advice will be appreciated and all advice will be taken.


-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

12 replies so far

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1141 posts in 4257 days

#1 posted 10-31-2008 07:02 PM

Make sure that your outfeed table is perfectly level with your knives.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2658 posts in 3792 days

#2 posted 10-31-2008 07:11 PM

...or use your table saw and a rip sled

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1141 posts in 4257 days

#3 posted 10-31-2008 07:14 PM

If the outfeed is too high you end up with a convex/wedged board, if it’s too low you end up with snipe at the end.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View HokieMojo's profile


2104 posts in 3994 days

#4 posted 10-31-2008 07:16 PM

I don’t have a jointer, but damian’s advice sure makes sense. my understanding is that you don’t want the infeed and outfeed to be level with each other. you want the infeed lower, the top of the blade rotation slightly higher, and the outfeed table level with the blade. I also think the longer the board you are jointeing, the more pronounced any misallignment would become. Again, I don’t have a jointer, but thsoe are my thoughts.

View spaids's profile


699 posts in 3959 days

#5 posted 10-31-2008 07:30 PM

OH! That makes a lot of sense Damian. At one time the outfeed was correct but it was only checked once when I first got it. I could see that a relatively new tool might get a little lose and move and need readjustment after some use. So I believe the outfeed has to be higher than the blades. That would mean that it cuts deep at first and then when I transfer my pressure to the outfeed table and finish the cut the back side of the board gets untouched and wallah I have a wedge.

Kindlingmaker.. I don’t understand what your telling me. Are you talking about edge jointing on the table saw? For some reason I “seem” to be able to edge joint ok. It may be that I’m taking off so little when I edge joint that the wedge effect goes unnoticed. Now that I think about it I’m certain that the wedge effect IS going on but unnoticed when I edge joint because when I glue up a panel that wedge doesn’t affect the thickness.

Thanks a ton.
Any more advice is STILL WELCOME!

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View Max's profile


56000 posts in 4539 days

#6 posted 10-31-2008 07:37 PM


I just sent you a private message with some info. If you want the pdf I can provide it to you.

-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT

View DaveH's profile


400 posts in 4044 days

#7 posted 10-31-2008 08:43 PM

My setup: Out feed matched the blade height. In feed about 1/16 lower. When feeding put most of the pressure on the out feed table. Once the board if flat switch to your planer to make the faces parallel.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

View Chris 's profile


1879 posts in 4257 days

#8 posted 10-31-2008 10:37 PM

Also keep in mind that if you are bearing down more on the in-feed side than the out (Pushing Down) then this would result in more material being remove on one end versus the other.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View 8iowa's profile


1591 posts in 4027 days

#9 posted 11-01-2008 04:24 AM

I now use my jointer strictly for edge jointing. It’s not exactly the perfect answer for face flattening. I find that I can still end up with cup and twist.

With simple winding sticks and a #5 jack plane I can easily remove the imperfections on the surface of a board and then run the board through the planer with confidence in the results.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View Boardman's profile


157 posts in 4027 days

#10 posted 11-01-2008 03:15 PM

I have a Ridgid jointer too and it came dead-on from the factory. Given how securely the tables are attached to the main frame, I really doubt they’ve moved – mine haven’t. Two suggestions – first, how much pressure are you using on the board and where is it being applied? You only need a light pressure on the outfeed side – just enough to keep the board from hopping on the table. Using too much force is a common technique fault. You can actually bow the board on some occasions, and create a piece bowed in the middle.

Second, if it’s significantly concave on the edge you’re jointing, try trimming the ends down on the table saw. Use a long straight edge that just touches the middle of the concave edge, and draw a line down the length. This will show hjow much needs to come off the ends before it’s reasonably straight. Al;though people will probably flip out over this, free hand the ends down on the table saw. I’ve done it hundreds of times. Then joint it.

I think the problem occurrs when the leading edge is significantly wider than the middle. You keep running that leading edge into the knives. And if its concave on that edge, the trailing end will hit the infeed table and keep the middle up off the knives. If you keep repeating this the leading end will get narrower and narrower until the middle is finally able to contact the knives. This is how the wedge is created. On a piece of paper, draw a straight horizontal line to represent the tables, and then draw a concave (towards the top) line above it to reppresnt the board. That’ll help visualize what’s happening.

I find it more time efficient to trim off the ends as described above. That way the middle can make contact early on the knives.

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 4151 days

#11 posted 11-01-2008 04:38 PM

I have a PDF file (Adobe Reader) about planing. If you PM me with your email address I’d be happy to send the file to you.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View CharlesNeil's profile


2475 posts in 4136 days

#12 posted 11-03-2008 07:36 PM

here is a little video i did…see if it helps…hope so..

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