Green Wood Turning Tutorial

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Forum topic by RexKrueger posted 01-17-2019 04:17 PM 316 views 1 time favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View RexKrueger's profile


10 posts in 134 days

01-17-2019 04:17 PM


I just finished up this quick video on turning green wood hollow forms. I go over selecting wood, mounting your work, rough turning, drying, fixing cracks and finishing. It’s a thorough introduction to a fascinating subject. I also get into WHY you would even want to turn green wood in the first place.

Hope you enjoy it!


2 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile


2551 posts in 2402 days

#1 posted 01-17-2019 08:56 PM

Good Luck with your book!

So watched your video, and not mentioned was wall thickness of your rough bowl blank and total time takes to micro wave. Good infomercial.

JMHO, micro waving rough blanks just busy work and not fool proof method of drying rough tuned bowls. Several years ago soaking in detergent was the rave but not fool proof method. Now boiling lot better but need lot of equipment and time it’s not really great for doing one rough bowl at a time.

Homemade light bulb & fan kiln about best method for drying rough turned bowl, vases, hollow forms. That method also has a learning curve, but lot smaller than other methods mentioned above.

Been using roughing out and air drying since started turning and works for me!

-- Bill

View LesB's profile


1969 posts in 3711 days

#2 posted 01-17-2019 10:53 PM

Why use green wood. A number of reasons…..

1. Your getting older like me and you might not be around when the wood drys naturally.

2. If you let the wood dry naturally, even if you put a wood sealer on it, it will often crack.

3. You have a unique piece of wood you want to turn immediately.

4. You are selling wood turnings and want to mass produce items so you turn them green to increase production.

5. Generally green wood is easier to turn; especially for woods that become very dense and hard when they dry.

6. Your tools stay sharp longer when turning green wood.

7,8,9 10….I’m sure there are more reasons.

Now on the video. The guy’s info on microwaving is pretty good based on my experience doing it. I would add one thing. I put my partially turned pieced in a brown paper bag for this process. The bag traps some of the moisture as it is cooked out and helps keep the surface of the wood moister and reduces the stresses between the surface and the moist inner wood. I also inspect the item between each microwave cycle and if I detect fine check starting I fill them with a medium thick CA glue which usually stops them from becoming larger. You turn away the glue and fine cracks after it is dry. He mentioned as many as 30 microwave cycles. I find that I seldom need more than a dozen. I also let the piece set for a few days to make sure any residual moisture stabilizes….leave it in the bag.

I also use a chuck for mounting my blanks. I usually create a recess or dado into the part of the turning that will be the opening (of a bowl) at the correct depth and diameter for my chuck. Mount it and completely turn the outside and create a new (2nd) recess in the bottom. Note because that recess will be left in the finish turning it can be made to be decorative by adding beads or V cuts in the center. Then I flip the piece around on the chuck and turn the inside. A little sanding and it is done.

For an alternate method of creating that recess for the first mounting check out my blog at:

-- Les B, Oregon

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