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Wax will not dry, or wipe off. Need some tips.

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Forum topic by Lolzfail posted 01-17-2019 01:42 PM 840 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Lolzfail

3 posts in 29 days


01-17-2019 01:42 PM

So I’ve been working on this piece, it’s rather old, and it was stained already. I attempted to poly it, and the oil based poly literally beaded off. So I used denatured alcohol and removed the wet poly, and then wiped it down again, sanded with 400.
Tried to apply a paste wax, Johnson’s. After approx 10 minutes I attempted to wipe the wax off. And it would barely wipe off, and left the top very blotchy and cloudy. Second coat. Worse. Stripped it all off with mineral spirits, and the piece was very hazy. I then have applied old English to it once, and the picture you’re seeing is of the old English. I’d like to use the piece as a dinner table….so I’d like to ATLEAST wax it. Any tips…?


13 replies so far

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Rich

4079 posts in 854 days


#1 posted 01-18-2019 04:15 PM

For one thing, denatured alcohol is not a good solvent to use for oil poly. Also, I don’t bother with mineral spirits anymore because most of them on the shelf have been stripped of their most effective solvent components. Instead, I’d recommend naphtha, paint thinner or turpentine.

It’s always a crap shoot tackling something whose history you know nothing about. Things like the beading, fish eye, etc, are caused by what was on the wood when you started. What’s the underside like? If it has the same finish you can to some experimenting there. Even if there isn’t and you have to continue on the top side, it doesn’t sound like things could get much worse.

At this point, I’d try a stripper. That will at least remove all you’ve added. If it doesn’t get down to the raw wood, then you likely have some sort of conversion varnish on there that you’ll have to remove mechanically — either sanding or scraping.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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bigJohninvegas

567 posts in 1726 days


#2 posted 01-18-2019 05:02 PM

I agree with what Rich says. our go to chemicals like mineral spirits are not all that anymore. I too would use a stripper. The fact that the poly beaded up shows it had a existing finish still on it.
Some Formbys stripper may take it all the way down. Or at least to where you can sand it clean.
I was in the same spot some years ago with a couple of bar stools I was trying to refinish.
I had used the Formbys stripper 1st, and sanded to bare wood. when I applied the new stain I still had a couple small spots that the stain would not take to. A little more sanding and it was all good.
In my case I was working on bar stools with a lot of decorative spindle work. And I will never try that again!
On a flat table top though, I bet it will be an easier job. That border will require some hand sanding, but that won’t be to bad.
And FYI, if you have not used the stripper before. Its so bad stuff. heavy gloves, protect yourself. it will eat your skin too. lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Formbys-30035-Paint-Remover-32-Ounce/dp/B000C02BQY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5?hvadid=78271584955134&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&ie=UTF8&keywords=formbys+paint+remover&qid=1547830053&sr=8-5-fkmrnull&tag=mh0b-20

-- John

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mahdee

4051 posts in 2032 days


#3 posted 01-18-2019 06:38 PM

Strip it like others have said, give it a thin coat of dewaxed shellac and then poly on top. At least 3 coats of brushed on, let it set for 72 hours. Sand with 320. Wet sand using orbital with 400 until all scratch marks are gone. Wet sand with 800 by hand and then 2500 with the grain. Stay away from the edges.

-- earthartandfoods.com

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Rich

4079 posts in 854 days


#4 posted 01-18-2019 06:50 PM

+1 on the dewaxed shellac. Better safe than sorry. Good explanation of the process, too.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Lolzfail

3 posts in 29 days


#5 posted 01-18-2019 07:03 PM

Thank you so much for the explanations!! I’m going to try the Frombys stripper then the dewaxed shellac. Is there a specific brand of that I should use?

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Andybb

1663 posts in 868 days


#6 posted 01-18-2019 07:10 PM


Stay away from the edges.

- mahdee

+1

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

1983 posts in 2062 days


#7 posted 01-18-2019 07:10 PM

Good advise above. I also would like to add your probably putting the wax on too heavy. Remember this is furniture not a car so when we wax furniture try wraping your wax in a old cotton tee. Forming a smallish ball to rub the friction and the heat of your hand will melt the wax and seep through this will be enough to coat the table.
By the time you get the whole top waxed. You can start buffing to your hearts content.
Good luck.

-- Aj

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2087 posts in 2254 days


#8 posted 01-18-2019 07:44 PM

I would use a Refinisher then add additional stain/dye and topcoat as you desire

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Rich

4079 posts in 854 days


#9 posted 01-18-2019 09:06 PM


I would use a Refinisher then add additional stain/dye and topcoat as you desire

- OSU55

Paying over $20 for a quart of a mixture of acetone, toluene, and alcohol seems pretty silly.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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OSU55

2087 posts in 2254 days


#10 posted 01-21-2019 03:43 PM

Then make your own, thats what I do, but most people want a product

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Snipes

298 posts in 2509 days


#11 posted 01-21-2019 08:25 PM

my advice is not to use wax!!

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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Lolzfail

3 posts in 29 days


#12 posted 01-31-2019 06:19 AM

What about boiled linseed oil as a finish…? After using a stripper.

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Snipes

298 posts in 2509 days


#13 posted 01-31-2019 01:00 PM

nope

-- if it is to be it is up to me

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