Miter Saw Blades

What are you going to cut most?

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

Maple/Oak/Walnut/Pine is what I have been cutting so far, would like to try my hand at some other woods, but Maple and Walnut really piques my interest the most.

I found a good site that covers these topics in nice detail.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

For sliding miter saws, I personally like thin kerf, negative hook blade. A negative hook makes the blade less aggressive (less likely to have the blade climb on you if you do your sliding cuts by pulling towards you rather that pushing away). I usually buy 60 to 80 tooth freud blades.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

Not a slider, gonna use a RAS for the rare occasion I have something wide and long to crosscut.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Just this afternoon (3/26), I received a Freud LU79R010, 10” 80T blade. It must be a popular choice as it was on back order for a month. This thin kerf (.098”) blade is a HiATB type with a 2 degree hook. It is rated “excellent” for crosscut wood, plywood, and laminate, and only “good” for chipboard. I got this blade for fine cuts on high grade plywood and laminates.

that being said, the crosscut blade in my current use is a Freud thin kerf 60T blade, type AB, with a 10 degree hook. It does very well in crosscutting and mitering hardwoods, without any tear out or need to disk sand.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"