Router Table in TS extension

  • Advertise with us
Project by Seeharlez posted 02-28-2012 12:31 AM 4137 views 6 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Well I finally got around to putting this enourmous Porter-cable router to good use and mounted it my table saw extension table. being a big plunge router, the first thing i need to do was figure out a simple way to adjust the height. The thing weighs a ton so reaching under the tabler and lifting was not an option (i tried…). So I did a few modifications to the router and added a custom made bracket (pic-6) so that I could adjust the height from above the table with an allen wrench (pic-5). It works really well, very smooth and fine enough adjustment. The plastic is quite hard – It’s either Delrin or UHMW-PE (not sure which) but the adjustment rod is threaded all the way through the bracket (~1-1/2”) so there is lots of shear area to take the load. I modified the locking lever on the router to stay sprung open until I push it closed so I don’t have to hold it open while adjusting the height but can lock it down when in use.

The Mounting plate (Pic-5) is Kreg from LV – ~$70. It fit nicely between the supports underneath the TS extension. The mounting pattern for the router needs to be drilled in the plate (along with the hole for the height adjustment.) I added the T-track ($2/ft from Busy bee) to both sides of the router so I can work from either side of the table saw by flipping the fence from one side to the other.

The Fence is made from 3/4”ply for strength and fence face is ~11/16” shelf stock from Lowes for a nice (if not somewhat cheap) low-friction surface. I added 2 rows of T-track to the fence to give more flexibility in positioning of feather boards or other stop or fixtures I may come up with in the future. The fence is quite tall, but this was the stock width of the shelf material (12”) and I figured it would be useful to have a nice, tall fence. If I find it’s too tall and gets in the way I can always trim it down. I made the fence in 2 pieces with a sacrificial MDF insert that fits between two 22.5 degree cuts on the ends of the fence. This way I can bury the bit in the fence for zero-clearance cutting and just trim it down or flip it end for end as it gets consumed. I made 4 inserts for now. The fences are held on with 4 carriage bolts with wing nuts so they can easily be removed or shimmed for square, or if I want to use the table as a jointer I can shim out one side of the fence.

The feather boards were on sale at Busy Bee for ~$5/ea and came with the gray threaded knobs. Since I paid about $3 for the black knobs by themselves I figure $5 was a good deal for the knobs and feather boards, rather than making them myself.

I also tried using my incra mitre gauge to run stock through on edge (pic-3) and although it’s a bit far from the mitre slot it seems to be stable enough so that’s kind of a bonus!

The vacuum port attachement is also from Busy bee (~$5) and is connected to my shop vac with a particle seperator.

I’m quite happy with how it came out, although I have barely used it, it seems to work quite well. I’m about to put it to the test as a start on re-doing the stairs in hardwood so we’ll see how it goes… Since this is my first router table, I would appreciate any useful feedback all you experts out there may have.

Thanks for looking!


-- Greg - Vancouver, BC

6 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile (online now)


117462 posts in 3844 days

#1 posted 02-28-2012 12:45 AM

Wow that’s a great set up Greg.Nice work.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View dustysawyer's profile


110 posts in 2895 days

#2 posted 02-28-2012 12:48 AM

Thanks for showing the Incra Miter Guage use. I would have probably never thought about using mine in conjunction with my TS ext. insert.

View waho6o9's profile (online now)


8562 posts in 2843 days

#3 posted 02-28-2012 12:58 AM

Great use of feather boards, good job.

View Ken90712's profile


17642 posts in 3455 days

#4 posted 02-28-2012 11:02 AM

Nice work, great job.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

8724 posts in 2595 days

#5 posted 02-28-2012 10:02 PM

I know that router….

The thing weighs a ton so reaching under the tabler and lifting was not an option

I put the factory fine adjust knob on mine years ago…. it’s Porter Cable p/n 75300

and though it works well enough on my Rockler router table top, I’m still crawling under the darn thing…..

I’d love to see and read a detailed explanation of how you did the mod to your router…. especially the spring on the lock lever, as your set up looks much better than my own.

Capital idea putting a junk tray on the back side of your fence. My featherboards are always getting in the way when not in use.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View Seeharlez's profile


83 posts in 3260 days

#6 posted 03-02-2012 07:40 PM

I will take some better pictures and post a more detailed expalnation this weekend. Now that I’m putting it to use I have to say it’s working out really well. Regarding the factory fine adjust know, I never knew such a thing existed, but then again I never looked. Free is always better anyways! ;)

I also realized that the fence is really useful for the table saw as well. It’s nice having the featherboards above, especial on non-through cuts or angled cuts, to maintain the depth of cut without having your hands pushing down near the blade. And the tall fence will be great for running boards through vertically if need be too.


-- Greg - Vancouver, BC

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics