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Wall-mounted Console

14K views 109 replies 15 participants last post by  builtinbkyn 
#1 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
 

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#2 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
we are remodeling our master bathroom, it is wallpapered, I painted it with Kilz primer and painted it. It turned out real nice. There were a few spots where the wallpaper did not line up nice, a little drywall mud and it filled it in good.

If you want texture, you can spray drywall texture on it. The Kilz stops the moisture from going through the paper.
 

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#3 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Used the same process on a bedroom wall. I know a professional would likely have removed the wallpaper but that wasn't in my skill set. Cannot see any evidence of the wallpaper so good enough for me!

we are remodeling our master bathroom, it is wallpapered, I painted it with Kilz primer and painted it. It turned out real nice. There were a few spots where the wallpaper did not line up nice, a little drywall mud and it filled it in good.

If you want texture, you can spray drywall texture on it. The Kilz stops the moisture from going through the paper.

- putty
 

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#4 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Hey Putty. It's actually a vinyl commercial paper that might be used in an office building. There's also a lot of it. I mean a lot lol. It's even on the ceilings in some areas. Had a few painters thru here and no one wanted to touch it with paint. So it's staying :) But thanks for the info. Hope your project goes well.
 

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#5 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Send Kenny the pink lacquer shelf mirror thing to go with his exam table in the shop.

Looks like it will have a modern style to it.. The walnut should really stand out.
 

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#6 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Send Kenny the pink lacquer shelf mirror thing to go with his exam table in the shop.

Looks like it will have a modern style to it.. The walnut should really stand out.

- EarlS
Man I wish I had thought of that Earl. It would also go with his cape and glitter :p But it went to good will. Dang thing was heavy. Had two 1/2" lag bolts bracing it to the wall.

Yeah a bit of mid-century modern I hope. Still working on the details and joinery methods.
 

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#7 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Bill won't get that one Earl. He's too good for us lowly shop folk these days. He's moved on to actually making furniture instead of just making tools aimed at making furniture ;-)

Just razzin' ya Bill :)

This is a fun project to me. A small piece with no legs and having a prominent position in the house opens up a lot of possibilities :)) I like your chosen path too. Personally, I like the idea of splined miters I think. Dovetails seem too busy for this piece. Especially with the top and right pieces having continuous grain. I wouldn't want to interrupt that.

I can't really tell from your sketch but, are those going to be doors or drawers/boxes in there? I kinda like the idea of a couple of "floating" boxes in there with the middle left open. Maybe some contrasting figured wood for the boxes. Then if you have a picture or mirror you like, maybe make a frame with the same figured wood?

And I'm confused by the upper left figure in your sketch?? Looks an awful lot like your stool… I mean the stool you built, not sayin' it looks like $h!+

;-p
 

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#8 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Kenny I get it. Well I almost get it after 58 years :p

The DTs would be hidden or blind in the miter. It makes a really strong joint, but not sure I can pull it off well enough. Otherwise I'm going with a hidden spline miter. Don't want to see the spline on the finished side.

Those are doors. Using knife hinges. The wood is zebra wood. Not sure why I wrote tiger wood. That was probably after dinner :) Ah still working out the details. Right now I'm just goofing off. Blah! lol

Yeah that was part of the stool project in the upper left. Can't waste paper you know.

Hidden mitered DTs

Wood Automotive exterior Automotive design Hardwood Rectangle


Rectangle Wood Shipping box Hardwood Beige
 

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#9 ·
Filling a need or ......

actually covering holes in the wall covering in the foyer. The wall covering is basically everywhere on the public side of the house (dining room, living room, foyer). There's way too much of it to be removed. That would be a huge job. Not happening. Besides it's all in great shape except for where something was hung. The foyer location is a different story.

Here's the offending spot.

Fixture Wood Interior design Door Building


What occupied that space was a rather hideous pink lacquer console/shelf with a mirror above. It was very 1970s, which is when the house was built. It definitely wasn't my taste and had to go. So I'm designing/making something that will go in it's place - basically a wall-hung shelf with some storage. I'm also working on a design for something above - or I may just hand a mirror or painting there.

This is the basic plan.

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Parallel Pattern


I have some 4/4 walnut rough dimensioned. The top and exposed end will be the single wider piece. I glued up two narrower pieces for the bottom and the side against the adjacent wall by the door.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Automotive design


I originally thought I'd cut hidden mitered dovetails, and still may, but I also think using a splined miter would be fine. Heck maybe even biscuits ;) Right now I'm making a miter shooting board for carcasses. Need this for which ever joint I choose.

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain
Oh, that's way too much work for a joint that's hidden!
 

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#10 ·
Choosing a joinery method

I've been kicking ideas around for how to best join the miters of the case for this wall-mounted console. My initial thoughts were hidden dovetails. I happened to watch a YT video of someone cutting them and thought they would be ideal method of joinery for strength. They are also traditional and require all hand tool work which I feel is part of the fun. I think I could pull it off, but then Kenny got me to thinking about expediency and the fact that all that work would be "hidden". Man Kenny got me to thinking. Whew that could be dangerous ;p

So I checked what Tage would do for mitered casework. He has a few methods. The hidden DTs are one method he illustrates, but he also shows various ways of using splines as well. One of the spline miters he shows in the book are cut with the table saw and not hidden. It looks pretty straight forward. I could use the same species to somewhat hide the presence of the spline, but that's not what I really want to do. So I made a jig to use with the router to make hidden splines. I had to see if these could be done accurately. Obviously the initial miters need to be accurately milled to 45 degrees, but the jig also needs to be very accurate to form a perfect 90 degree corner and a carcass that's in plane and not wracked.

There's been a piece of 4/4 pine in the garage left there for probably 20 years or more by previous owners. This was a good test piece for me to use as the walnut I'm using for the case of the console will end up being around 7/8" once I'm done milling. After shooting the miters clean on the sled, I tested the slot milling with the jig and low and behold, the jig cut the slots for the spline perfectly perpendicular to the miter and the edge. So this is a viable way to proceed.

Wood Yellow Engineering Tool Power tool


Table Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring


Table Wood Rectangle Publication Shelf


Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Table Flooring


However reading further about using splines, Tage suggested these are better suited for plywood and MDF joinery and not so much for hardwood, but he actually didn't explain why. Looking further, he uses another method which looks interesting and can also be done more expediently with a router and jig - full blind multiple splines. I kind of like this method as it seems to combine a little of both methods - the hand tool work of the hidden DTs with the accuracy of the router/jig method.

Font Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel


Wood Font Publication Parallel Paper


Font Publication Material property Rectangle Parallel


Guess I'm going to make the jig for these and test it.
 

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#11 ·
Choosing a joinery method

I've been kicking ideas around for how to best join the miters of the case for this wall-mounted console. My initial thoughts were hidden dovetails. I happened to watch a YT video of someone cutting them and thought they would be ideal method of joinery for strength. They are also traditional and require all hand tool work which I feel is part of the fun. I think I could pull it off, but then Kenny got me to thinking about expediency and the fact that all that work would be "hidden". Man Kenny got me to thinking. Whew that could be dangerous ;p

So I checked what Tage would do for mitered casework. He has a few methods. The hidden DTs are one method he illustrates, but he also shows various ways of using splines as well. One of the spline miters he shows in the book are cut with the table saw and not hidden. It looks pretty straight forward. I could use the same species to somewhat hide the presence of the spline, but that's not what I really want to do. So I made a jig to use with the router to make hidden splines. I had to see if these could be done accurately. Obviously the initial miters need to be accurately milled to 45 degrees, but the jig also needs to be very accurate to form a perfect 90 degree corner and a carcass that's in plane and not wracked.

There's been a piece of 4/4 pine in the garage left there for probably 20 years or more by previous owners. This was a good test piece for me to use as the walnut I'm using for the case of the console will end up being around 7/8" once I'm done milling. After shooting the miters clean on the sled, I tested the slot milling with the jig and low and behold, the jig cut the slots for the spline perfectly perpendicular to the miter and the edge. So this is a viable way to proceed.

Wood Yellow Engineering Tool Power tool


Table Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring


Table Wood Rectangle Publication Shelf


Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Table Flooring


However reading further about using splines, Tage suggested these are better suited for plywood and MDF joinery and not so much for hardwood, but he actually didn't explain why. Looking further, he uses another method which looks interesting and can also be done more expediently with a router and jig - full blind multiple splines. I kind of like this method as it seems to combine a little of both methods - the hand tool work of the hidden DTs with the accuracy of the router/jig method.

Font Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel


Wood Font Publication Parallel Paper


Font Publication Material property Rectangle Parallel


Guess I'm going to make the jig for these and test it.
im interested to see what you come up with.i dont know why the splines wouldn't work with hardwood though?
 

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#17 ·
Procrastinating

Well sort of. First I had to work out the issues I was experiencing with the shooting board. There's definitely some learning involved when using it. It's not just stick a lump of wood on it and expect perfection. But after figuring out what the heck I was doing, I think I'm GTG with using it.

Second procrastination was a neighbor stopping by yesterday. He thought the house was on fire because "of the smoke pouring out" near the side of the house. No fire. Just a new, high efficiency condensing boiler fired up. The exhaust flue needed to be routed out the side wall because the installer couldn't fish the PVC pipe to the roof. Not really a big deal afaiak. But we had a few beers and he checked out the shop. Oh then it was Sunday, so of course it's Sunday sauce day :0 Some ravioli, sausage, a good brew and some woodworking reading.

Food Computer Tableware Laptop Personal computer


Today I continued the procrastination. I decided it would be nice to have a hotdog of some form for my low angle jack when using it for shooting. So I used a few pieces of scrap and came up with something I'm pretty happy with. It's not done yet, but it fits snug and provides a good place to grip the plane for shooting on this angled shooting board. Not sure if the final results will provide a good option for a straight shooting board, but I'll worry about that when the need arrises. This one just needs some ergonomic refinements and it will work wonderfully.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Art


Wood Gas Audio equipment Moka pot Machine


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Workbench


Wood Rotary tool Engineering Drilling Electrical wiring


Wood Table Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Hand tool Crosscut saw Wood Rectangle Tool


Wood Bag Musical instrument accessory Luggage and bags Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Art


The hotdog is snugged up with two screws. The wood pinches the sides of the plane body and stays put. No set screw required which would actually mar the body of the plane.

Hand tool Wood Bumper Crosscut saw Automotive exterior


OK enough procrastinating for me today. I gotta get this finished.

But regarding the console/shelf/what ever it's called - I guess I haven't committed to the design, or more specifically, the walnut stock I purchased for this project. It's nice enough, but I would really like to use rift sawn walnut.

I had this piece of walnut sitting around. It was a good size for resewing and gluing it up for the back panel which won't be seen. I really would like that long grain showing all around as it would really enhance the design.

Wood Road surface Wood stain Flooring Floor


Unfortunately finding good available stock here in the land of Pitt seems to be a difficult task. Anyone know a good online seller that doesn't ask for the first born male in return?
 

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#18 ·
Procrastinating

Well sort of. First I had to work out the issues I was experiencing with the shooting board. There's definitely some learning involved when using it. It's not just stick a lump of wood on it and expect perfection. But after figuring out what the heck I was doing, I think I'm GTG with using it.

Second procrastination was a neighbor stopping by yesterday. He thought the house was on fire because "of the smoke pouring out" near the side of the house. No fire. Just a new, high efficiency condensing boiler fired up. The exhaust flue needed to be routed out the side wall because the installer couldn't fish the PVC pipe to the roof. Not really a big deal afaiak. But we had a few beers and he checked out the shop. Oh then it was Sunday, so of course it's Sunday sauce day :0 Some ravioli, sausage, a good brew and some woodworking reading.

Food Computer Tableware Laptop Personal computer


Today I continued the procrastination. I decided it would be nice to have a hotdog of some form for my low angle jack when using it for shooting. So I used a few pieces of scrap and came up with something I'm pretty happy with. It's not done yet, but it fits snug and provides a good place to grip the plane for shooting on this angled shooting board. Not sure if the final results will provide a good option for a straight shooting board, but I'll worry about that when the need arrises. This one just needs some ergonomic refinements and it will work wonderfully.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Art


Wood Gas Audio equipment Moka pot Machine


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Workbench


Wood Rotary tool Engineering Drilling Electrical wiring


Wood Table Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Hand tool Crosscut saw Wood Rectangle Tool


Wood Bag Musical instrument accessory Luggage and bags Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Art


The hotdog is snugged up with two screws. The wood pinches the sides of the plane body and stays put. No set screw required which would actually mar the body of the plane.

Hand tool Wood Bumper Crosscut saw Automotive exterior


OK enough procrastinating for me today. I gotta get this finished.

But regarding the console/shelf/what ever it's called - I guess I haven't committed to the design, or more specifically, the walnut stock I purchased for this project. It's nice enough, but I would really like to use rift sawn walnut.

I had this piece of walnut sitting around. It was a good size for resewing and gluing it up for the back panel which won't be seen. I really would like that long grain showing all around as it would really enhance the design.

Wood Road surface Wood stain Flooring Floor


Unfortunately finding good available stock here in the land of Pitt seems to be a difficult task. Anyone know a good online seller that doesn't ask for the first born male in return?
I would offer to shop Youngblood for you, but heck, I don't even shop there for myself in the winter. Good luck in your quest, Bill.
 

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#24 ·
Details, details .....

I think my procrastinating was put to good use. I wasn't ready to proceed with where I was in the design. It's a relatively basic design which is governed by the circumstances of the location. However I also felt it needed more detail to enhance the overall appearance of the composition. So I put pencil to paper to refine the nitty gritty of how everything will go together.

Handwriting Sketch pad Font Rectangle Parallel


Sketch pad Rectangle Font Ring binder Wood


At this point I feel satisfied in the direction this has gone. Now I just need to execute it as well as I'm capable of doing. The basic carcass is milled, sized, dry fit and ready for further refinement.

Wood Saw Engineering Tool Jig grinder


Wood Floor Engineering Building Machine


Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Flooring


Wood Table Floor Flooring Machine tool


Wood Floor Building Gas Hardwood


Wood Gesture Flooring Rectangle Floor


Next time I think it's a good idea to use miters for joinery, I'll think twice about it and then use veneer :)
 

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#25 ·
Details, details .....

I think my procrastinating was put to good use. I wasn't ready to proceed with where I was in the design. It's a relatively basic design which is governed by the circumstances of the location. However I also felt it needed more detail to enhance the overall appearance of the composition. So I put pencil to paper to refine the nitty gritty of how everything will go together.

Handwriting Sketch pad Font Rectangle Parallel


Sketch pad Rectangle Font Ring binder Wood


At this point I feel satisfied in the direction this has gone. Now I just need to execute it as well as I'm capable of doing. The basic carcass is milled, sized, dry fit and ready for further refinement.

Wood Saw Engineering Tool Jig grinder


Wood Floor Engineering Building Machine


Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Table Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain Flooring


Wood Table Floor Flooring Machine tool


Wood Floor Building Gas Hardwood


Wood Gesture Flooring Rectangle Floor


Next time I think it's a good idea to use miters for joinery, I'll think twice about it and then use veneer :)
That sure is beautiful workmanship. Perfection!
 

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#39 ·
Who pulled the plug?

Well I was continuing some work on this project, when the lights went out. Many states in the North East were hit with a wind storm of immense proportions and Pittsburgh wasn't spared. Lots of localized outages for power all around the city. I lost power right after taking these pics :(

Before things went dark, I was able to resaw the panel I glued up for the back. Man I love my bandsaw. Set up a tall fence and halved the panel almost perfectly.

Furniture Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain


Calipers Watch Wood Bicycle part Finger


Automotive design Wood Gadget Bumper Automotive exterior


Then I decided to install the Magports I purchased for my jointer/planer. Since the DC ports have to be switched when changing operations, this makes it much easier. They are really a neat idea. They're well made and hold securely and were the perfect solution for this since I do not have the planer hard piped. But even then, the DC hose needs to move from the jointer port to the planer port when required. I highly recommend these for anyone who has similar needs and I believe the inventory is a LJ.

Hood Automotive tire Engineering Gas Machine


Now I'll have to wait until power is restored to continue work. Hopefully that is sometime today.

Oh my property didn't come away unscathed. A 80' - 90' evergreen - not sure what species - came down between my house and the neighbors. Thankfully the prevailing winds were coming from the North and knocked it down and away from the houses.

Plant Cloud Sky Tree Natural landscape


Plant Sky Natural landscape Cloud Tree


Plant Wood Twig Grass Trunk


Plant Fence Tree Wood Home fencing
 

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#40 ·
Who pulled the plug?

Well I was continuing some work on this project, when the lights went out. Many states in the North East were hit with a wind storm of immense proportions and Pittsburgh wasn't spared. Lots of localized outages for power all around the city. I lost power right after taking these pics :(

Before things went dark, I was able to resaw the panel I glued up for the back. Man I love my bandsaw. Set up a tall fence and halved the panel almost perfectly.

Furniture Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain


Calipers Watch Wood Bicycle part Finger


Automotive design Wood Gadget Bumper Automotive exterior


Then I decided to install the Magports I purchased for my jointer/planer. Since the DC ports have to be switched when changing operations, this makes it much easier. They are really a neat idea. They're well made and hold securely and were the perfect solution for this since I do not have the planer hard piped. But even then, the DC hose needs to move from the jointer port to the planer port when required. I highly recommend these for anyone who has similar needs and I believe the inventory is a LJ.

Hood Automotive tire Engineering Gas Machine


Now I'll have to wait until power is restored to continue work. Hopefully that is sometime today.

Oh my property didn't come away unscathed. A 80' - 90' evergreen - not sure what species - came down between my house and the neighbors. Thankfully the prevailing winds were coming from the North and knocked it down and away from the houses.

Plant Cloud Sky Tree Natural landscape


Plant Sky Natural landscape Cloud Tree


Plant Wood Twig Grass Trunk


Plant Fence Tree Wood Home fencing
Bill, glad it missed the house. Trees have been falling in my area of Nor Cal quite a bit since the rains have started.

Do you have a link for those mag ports, they'd work well for my two machines?
 

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#59 ·
I've got the power!

Well I have electricity at least. Thankfully, service returned yesterday afternoon. No power for 2 days really sucks.

Today after doing some cleanup outside, I returned to furthering this along. Basically cut some dados and grooves for the back panel and for the cabinet dividers and profiled the edge. I abandoned the idea of doing sliding dovetails. They're really not necessary and I have never done them before. Didn't want to waste time trying to figure them out. I have so much more to accomplish and really want to get this done and to move on.

Still lots to do, but I'm feeling good about where this is heading.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Wood Flooring Art Machine tool Hardwood
 

Attachments

#60 ·
I've got the power!

Well I have electricity at least. Thankfully, service returned yesterday afternoon. No power for 2 days really sucks.

Today after doing some cleanup outside, I returned to furthering this along. Basically cut some dados and grooves for the back panel and for the cabinet dividers and profiled the edge. I abandoned the idea of doing sliding dovetails. They're really not necessary and I have never done them before. Didn't want to waste time trying to figure them out. I have so much more to accomplish and really want to get this done and to move on.

Still lots to do, but I'm feeling good about where this is heading.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Wood Flooring Art Machine tool Hardwood
two days,hell i get ticked off if it lasts two hours bill.glad your back at it looking forward to where you take us.
 

Attachments

#71 ·
Turning the corner

After meeting with the tree removal guy and taking care of a few things that were neglected during the outage - LAUNDRY mostly lol, I milled the remaining components. Everything is dry fit and looking almost like a finished product.

Using simple techniques that I've seen dozens of times on YT, but usually fail to employ, made things much easier and cleaner. Using a chisel to form a kerf for the saw is one. Such a simple and quick little method ensures a crisp shoulder, but I generally fail to do it, instead using the knife line to start the kerf which sometimes goes well and sometime doesn't.

Pics of how things go together and some of the work I was able to get done this afternoon.

Wood Line Flooring Hardwood Tints and shades


Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Hand tool Wood Crosscut saw Tool Metalworking hand tool


Property Rectangle Wood Table Architecture


Hand tool Wood Tool Office ruler Metalworking hand tool


Wood Flooring Floor Plank Composite material


Table Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Composite material


Saw Wood Flooring Floor Workbench


Tomorrow I'll pull it apart and start to hand scrape everything, followed by sanding. There's a scratch that I caused when I failed to tighten one of the screws for the sole plate on the router after centering the bushing when I did the splines. It's visible in the first pic. A silly brain fart, but I'll have to work it out.

Before I do that I need to cut the doors to size and mortise in the knife hinges. I'm using touch latches with magnets, so those need to be located while I can still take things apart and locate the screws. Otherwise I'll be messing around trying to do this when things are already glued and I can't get a drill inside.

I'm conflicted on how to proceed with the glue-up. I think I'll give the whole thing a thinned sealer coat of shellac to prevent squeeze out from effecting the finish, and use blue tape to mask off the joint areas during glue-up. These are the stages where I get somewhat lost in the weeds, and it's probably the most critical for a successful project. Any suggestions are more than welcome :) The finish is something I haven't tried, but appears to be fool proof - meaning I can't mess it up - Maloof 2 part finishing system. I picked up the poly oil and the oil wax.
 

Attachments

#72 ·
Turning the corner

After meeting with the tree removal guy and taking care of a few things that were neglected during the outage - LAUNDRY mostly lol, I milled the remaining components. Everything is dry fit and looking almost like a finished product.

Using simple techniques that I've seen dozens of times on YT, but usually fail to employ, made things much easier and cleaner. Using a chisel to form a kerf for the saw is one. Such a simple and quick little method ensures a crisp shoulder, but I generally fail to do it, instead using the knife line to start the kerf which sometimes goes well and sometime doesn't.

Pics of how things go together and some of the work I was able to get done this afternoon.

Wood Line Flooring Hardwood Tints and shades


Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Hand tool Wood Crosscut saw Tool Metalworking hand tool


Property Rectangle Wood Table Architecture


Hand tool Wood Tool Office ruler Metalworking hand tool


Wood Flooring Floor Plank Composite material


Table Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Composite material


Saw Wood Flooring Floor Workbench


Tomorrow I'll pull it apart and start to hand scrape everything, followed by sanding. There's a scratch that I caused when I failed to tighten one of the screws for the sole plate on the router after centering the bushing when I did the splines. It's visible in the first pic. A silly brain fart, but I'll have to work it out.

Before I do that I need to cut the doors to size and mortise in the knife hinges. I'm using touch latches with magnets, so those need to be located while I can still take things apart and locate the screws. Otherwise I'll be messing around trying to do this when things are already glued and I can't get a drill inside.

I'm conflicted on how to proceed with the glue-up. I think I'll give the whole thing a thinned sealer coat of shellac to prevent squeeze out from effecting the finish, and use blue tape to mask off the joint areas during glue-up. These are the stages where I get somewhat lost in the weeds, and it's probably the most critical for a successful project. Any suggestions are more than welcome :) The finish is something I haven't tried, but appears to be fool proof - meaning I can't mess it up - Maloof 2 part finishing system. I picked up the poly oil and the oil wax.
On special projects I rub down the glue joints with a paste wax when it is clamped up during glue up dry run, any dry glue just peels off and the paste wax will dissolve with DNA wipe or shellac finish. I use Chapmans wax but pretty sure any neutral one will work fine. That Walnut looks fantastic, beautiful wood for a fine project!
OSMOS oil makes Walnut look very rich and provides a great long tough finish.
 

Attachments

#86 ·
Finishing the finish?

I've only been at it since late Saturday afternoon, but it seems like weeks. Building a finish with oil? Not sure I'm in love with it and I can understand why guys like using lacquer. Oil finishes do look easy when you see some guy on YT, maybe even an LJ, with a completed piece only needing to shine from the oil finish being applied with a rag. Then magically it's done and reflecting the rays of the Sun. Not that fast! It takes many, many coats, lots of patience and more specifically, time. Simply rubbing some oil or oil based finish on a lump of wood isn't all that difficult but to be sure, it takes a lot of time to get to the promise land. Also, sometimes one needs to be a little inventive. Such was the case for me which I'll explain later.

First I had to actually finish a few things before I even got started finishing the finish. I'm using a French cleat to hang this and wanted it to be integral and part of the case and not simply a piece of plywood tacked to the back. So that required a little work. By mortising the back edge of the side components, the support will come from the top edge and the sides, which I feel is a much better solution for this. It will become apparent once the case is glued up and the cleat in place.

Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Hardwood


Table Blue Wood Automotive tire Tire


Then I needed to mortise the locations for the knife hinges. This probably would have been simpler if the front edge wasn't already profiled, but then I was concerned that routing the front edge would blow out the slim piece remaining on the end. (I actually did just that with the router on a practice piece and realized I needed to feed the router in from the front end to avoid that) So I left this to do afterward. I guess I could have done the mortises by hand, but I was also concerned with my ability to do it uniformly. Maybe I was over thinking it, but accurately locating the mortises for knife hinges is key. There's no adjustability. The template mostly ensures the mortise will land in the same location on all four corners without having to measure. So I made a template and it all seems to have worked, though fitting the doors will tell that story.

Wood Table Flooring Tool Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


I also need to fill some voids. They're on the inside of the cabinet and will never be seen, but I didn't want to leave them unfilled, especially one knot which I felt could cause problems on the future. So they were filled with West Systems epoxy. The big knot in the top pic kept drinking in the epoxy. I'm glad I took the time to do this. Even though it doesn't go thru to the other side, I guess a crack could have formed there.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Rectangle Wood Flooring Material property Composite material


Then it was on to sanding. I went thru the grits all the way up to 400, which is what the Maloof finish suggests. I was concerned here because sanding does change dimensions and that could be an issue with the mitered corners. Take too much down on the inside faces and the corners will not meet due to the splines. Again, maybe my order of operations needs to be rethought, but having the splines located and in use during the earlier stages of construction helped with fine tuning everything.

Then I proceeded with the Maloof oil/poly finish. And proceeded and proceeded some more. The wood just soaked it in and really not much of a build was occurring. What also became apparent was the color variations in the wood. It went from light purple to deep brown. So I applied a few coats, allowed it to cure for 12hrs between coats and not the 24hrs the can says (I would be collecting SS by that time) and sanded with 600 grit between coats. I wet sanded the last coat of the Maloof with the 600 grit paper. Still not looking great and the color variation annoying me, I decided to use Liberon tinted with Dark Walnut Danish oil. This gave things a more even tone and the finish built up more quickly too. I do love the Liberon. It's expensive, but man it does a really nice job.

So at this point, the interior of the case is finished. When this last coat is ready, probably tomorrow, I'll give it a steel wool rubdown with the Maloof oil/wax finish and call it a day on the interior. Then glue it up and get ready to start the process on the outside lol I don't think I could have done the sanding and finishing if this were assembled. Even though a good portion of the interior is hidden by doors, I obviously want the finish to be the same as that of the outside.

This is where it all stands, err, well lays :)

Table Furniture Wood Flooring Desk
 

Attachments

#87 ·
Finishing the finish?

I've only been at it since late Saturday afternoon, but it seems like weeks. Building a finish with oil? Not sure I'm in love with it and I can understand why guys like using lacquer. Oil finishes do look easy when you see some guy on YT, maybe even an LJ, with a completed piece only needing to shine from the oil finish being applied with a rag. Then magically it's done and reflecting the rays of the Sun. Not that fast! It takes many, many coats, lots of patience and more specifically, time. Simply rubbing some oil or oil based finish on a lump of wood isn't all that difficult but to be sure, it takes a lot of time to get to the promise land. Also, sometimes one needs to be a little inventive. Such was the case for me which I'll explain later.

First I had to actually finish a few things before I even got started finishing the finish. I'm using a French cleat to hang this and wanted it to be integral and part of the case and not simply a piece of plywood tacked to the back. So that required a little work. By mortising the back edge of the side components, the support will come from the top edge and the sides, which I feel is a much better solution for this. It will become apparent once the case is glued up and the cleat in place.

Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Hardwood


Table Blue Wood Automotive tire Tire


Then I needed to mortise the locations for the knife hinges. This probably would have been simpler if the front edge wasn't already profiled, but then I was concerned that routing the front edge would blow out the slim piece remaining on the end. (I actually did just that with the router on a practice piece and realized I needed to feed the router in from the front end to avoid that) So I left this to do afterward. I guess I could have done the mortises by hand, but I was also concerned with my ability to do it uniformly. Maybe I was over thinking it, but accurately locating the mortises for knife hinges is key. There's no adjustability. The template mostly ensures the mortise will land in the same location on all four corners without having to measure. So I made a template and it all seems to have worked, though fitting the doors will tell that story.

Wood Table Flooring Tool Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


I also need to fill some voids. They're on the inside of the cabinet and will never be seen, but I didn't want to leave them unfilled, especially one knot which I felt could cause problems on the future. So they were filled with West Systems epoxy. The big knot in the top pic kept drinking in the epoxy. I'm glad I took the time to do this. Even though it doesn't go thru to the other side, I guess a crack could have formed there.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Rectangle Wood Flooring Material property Composite material


Then it was on to sanding. I went thru the grits all the way up to 400, which is what the Maloof finish suggests. I was concerned here because sanding does change dimensions and that could be an issue with the mitered corners. Take too much down on the inside faces and the corners will not meet due to the splines. Again, maybe my order of operations needs to be rethought, but having the splines located and in use during the earlier stages of construction helped with fine tuning everything.

Then I proceeded with the Maloof oil/poly finish. And proceeded and proceeded some more. The wood just soaked it in and really not much of a build was occurring. What also became apparent was the color variations in the wood. It went from light purple to deep brown. So I applied a few coats, allowed it to cure for 12hrs between coats and not the 24hrs the can says (I would be collecting SS by that time) and sanded with 600 grit between coats. I wet sanded the last coat of the Maloof with the 600 grit paper. Still not looking great and the color variation annoying me, I decided to use Liberon tinted with Dark Walnut Danish oil. This gave things a more even tone and the finish built up more quickly too. I do love the Liberon. It's expensive, but man it does a really nice job.

So at this point, the interior of the case is finished. When this last coat is ready, probably tomorrow, I'll give it a steel wool rubdown with the Maloof oil/wax finish and call it a day on the interior. Then glue it up and get ready to start the process on the outside lol I don't think I could have done the sanding and finishing if this were assembled. Even though a good portion of the interior is hidden by doors, I obviously want the finish to be the same as that of the outside.

This is where it all stands, err, well lays :)

Table Furniture Wood Flooring Desk
It looks good even just laying on the bench. How do you keep the vertical pieces from falling off the cookies?
 

Attachments

#104 ·
Rounded 3rd and heading home

Been a busy couple of days for me, but I did get to finish up what really amounts to a box with two doors lol I have to say the box tested my skill and patience. If I ever say I'm going to make something with mitered corners and knife hinges, please talk me out of it :p

Ah really it was fun and challenging all at the same time. I learned a lot along the way, and in particular, I learned I need to write down every step before proceeding. I also learned that I should ask questions here on LJs before proceeding with something I haven't done. Sure I look around the net for info, but sometimes, even though that info comes form a reliable source, it isn't the best info.

The door/knife hinge installation is a prime example. I watched a video that was linked to on the Brusso site. And though it was fine, what I ended up doing, was a better course to take. I'm sure someone here on LJs could have given me advice on the pitfalls and how to go about it in a better way than video suggested.

The dimensions for these hinges are critical as there's literally zero adjustment after the fact. The suggestion in the YT video is to make shims equal in thickness to the small washer that the hinges pivot about. They provide a space above and below the door between the carcass. That space is also to be referenced around all four sides of the door - in this situation, three sides. Then rough cut the door to size and then start to fit with the shims. Well when that dimension is roughly 1/16", any deviation is magnified. What I found is it's easier to rough size a story stick to just over what's needed to fit then sneak up on the fit between the actual hinges and not the sides of the casework. Then, as long as your opening is square, use the dimension of the story stick to rough the door a little oversized and again sneak up on the fit. Difficult to explain, but much easier than the video IMO.

So after getting the final coats of Maloof on the outside and allowing it to cure for a few days, I worked on sanding the doors - to 2000 grit :) It's pretty amazing. There's no finish on the doors but they have a sheen equal to lacquer. The wood grain looks terrific and is unobscured. Not sure if I'm leaving them as is or adding some wax, but right now they look pretty darn good.

After the sanding is when I mortised for the hinges. I did it in this order knowing how critical the dimensioning is for these darn hinges. I don't know if it was necessary, but I wasn't taking any chances. Then I installed the touch latches. This is where I forgot to write something down - I forgot to pre-drill the holes for them before assembly. Doh! So you know when you buy a tool and really have no current need, but think at the time - I could maybe use this? Yeah I had one of those nice moments when I remembered I bought a small Dewalt right angle attachment with a hex shank that has a magnetized socket :)

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Drill Hammer drill Saw


Wood Tool Rectangle Hardwood Fashion accessory


Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Office supplies Writing implement Flooring Writing instrument accessory


After these were done the rest went seamlessly. I installed the doors. The only thing remaining is to hang it on the wall in the foyer sometime tomorrow.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive tire Flooring


Table Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring


Wood Table Hardwood Audio equipment Wood stain


Furniture Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain


Wood Flooring Rectangle Shade Hardwood


Wood Table Workbench Machine tool Hardwood
 

Attachments

#105 ·
Rounded 3rd and heading home

Been a busy couple of days for me, but I did get to finish up what really amounts to a box with two doors lol I have to say the box tested my skill and patience. If I ever say I'm going to make something with mitered corners and knife hinges, please talk me out of it :p

Ah really it was fun and challenging all at the same time. I learned a lot along the way, and in particular, I learned I need to write down every step before proceeding. I also learned that I should ask questions here on LJs before proceeding with something I haven't done. Sure I look around the net for info, but sometimes, even though that info comes form a reliable source, it isn't the best info.

The door/knife hinge installation is a prime example. I watched a video that was linked to on the Brusso site. And though it was fine, what I ended up doing, was a better course to take. I'm sure someone here on LJs could have given me advice on the pitfalls and how to go about it in a better way than video suggested.

The dimensions for these hinges are critical as there's literally zero adjustment after the fact. The suggestion in the YT video is to make shims equal in thickness to the small washer that the hinges pivot about. They provide a space above and below the door between the carcass. That space is also to be referenced around all four sides of the door - in this situation, three sides. Then rough cut the door to size and then start to fit with the shims. Well when that dimension is roughly 1/16", any deviation is magnified. What I found is it's easier to rough size a story stick to just over what's needed to fit then sneak up on the fit between the actual hinges and not the sides of the casework. Then, as long as your opening is square, use the dimension of the story stick to rough the door a little oversized and again sneak up on the fit. Difficult to explain, but much easier than the video IMO.

So after getting the final coats of Maloof on the outside and allowing it to cure for a few days, I worked on sanding the doors - to 2000 grit :) It's pretty amazing. There's no finish on the doors but they have a sheen equal to lacquer. The wood grain looks terrific and is unobscured. Not sure if I'm leaving them as is or adding some wax, but right now they look pretty darn good.

After the sanding is when I mortised for the hinges. I did it in this order knowing how critical the dimensioning is for these darn hinges. I don't know if it was necessary, but I wasn't taking any chances. Then I installed the touch latches. This is where I forgot to write something down - I forgot to pre-drill the holes for them before assembly. Doh! So you know when you buy a tool and really have no current need, but think at the time - I could maybe use this? Yeah I had one of those nice moments when I remembered I bought a small Dewalt right angle attachment with a hex shank that has a magnetized socket :)

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Drill Hammer drill Saw


Wood Tool Rectangle Hardwood Fashion accessory


Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Office supplies Writing implement Flooring Writing instrument accessory


After these were done the rest went seamlessly. I installed the doors. The only thing remaining is to hang it on the wall in the foyer sometime tomorrow.

Wood Table Rectangle Automotive tire Flooring


Table Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring


Wood Table Hardwood Audio equipment Wood stain


Furniture Wood Rectangle Table Wood stain


Wood Flooring Rectangle Shade Hardwood


Wood Table Workbench Machine tool Hardwood
Dang Bill, that's a primo piece buddy. Everything from design through finished product was well thought out and executed. I'd be proud to hang it in my foyer. The Zebrawood compliments the Walnut nicely. Not a combination I would have thought of but, that's why your stuff is so much nicer than mine! ;-)
 

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